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Car Forum / Mazda / Mazda Miata / April 2008

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LOUD NOISE

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Genny - 14 Apr 2008 21:38 GMT
Hi all:

My 94 Miata has been making a loud noise for months. It happens when I
start up the car in the morning (or after it has been parked for a
while and I start it up.) The noise is more than likely the drive belt
(sometimes it will stop if I turn off the AC - sometimes it happens
when I make a turn)

The noise is becoming more regular and I know I need to do something
about it. (I replaced the belts last year.) My car has been to two
horrendous mechanics this year (for unrelated repairs) I told both
about the noise. The 1st told me that the pulley was broken and needed
to be replaced. The other said that the belt was put on too tightly
and had stretched and needed to be replaced.

Neither mechanic fixed it (they fixed other things) But I don't trust
either one.

How much should I expect to pay for this repair if it is:
1) need a new belt
2) need a new pulley
or 3) need both.

Is this an expensive repair?

For years my car has needed nothing  - now in the past 12 months
everything seems to be breaking. and I have been getting reallybad
service too. :(

Please help!

Thanks!
Frank Berger - 14 Apr 2008 22:05 GMT
> Hi all:
>
[quoted text clipped - 28 lines]
>
> Thanks!

I've had the same problem off and on for months.  Even right after getting
all new belts.  Doesn't seem to have anything to do with the A/C.  I've
wondered if it could be the alternator bearings going bad, which could make
the belts slip until the alternator loosens up.
johnny p. - 16 Apr 2008 04:00 GMT
> > Hi all:
> >
[quoted text clipped - 33 lines]
> the A/C.  I've wondered if it could be the alternator bearings going
> bad, which could make the belts slip until the alternator loosens up.

It could be that.  Last week my alternator dropped dead on my '99 after
several months of sometimes squealing at startup.  At least the battery
didn't go flat for another twenty miles of driving after the red battery
light went on, so I didn't have to get it towed, I was able to drive it
to the mechanic.

On the other hand your alternator could be OK, the new belts might have
stretched.  In my old '93 I had the belts replaced and a couple of
months later it started to shriek after startup because the new belts
had stretched out a bit.  But I just tightened the belt and the
squealing went away, and my alternator worked fine for the next couple
of years.

It's easy to tighten the belt yourself.  On the '93 there's a tensioner
screw on the alternator bracket, that you have to locate by feel (easier
than it might sound) becase it's underneath the alternator, which takes
a 10 mm wrench.  On the '99 they relocated it to on top.  When you turn
this screw it pushes the alternator away from the center of the engine
which tightens the belt.  I turned the screw only a quarter turn at a
time so as not to overtighten the belt and destroying the bearings on
the alternator, a/c and water pump.  After the second adjustment (i.e. a
total of one half turn of the tensioning screw) the noise went away for
good.

I remember when I was a kid the solution for belts slipping was a shot
of hair spray on the pulley.  I don't know if they even make hair spray
any more!

Yours jp
Brian Minto - 14 Apr 2008 23:18 GMT
I had a squeal and/or a howling noise when I started my '94 miata. The noise
was embarassingly loud and lasted several minutes. I did two things at the
same time and the noise has totally gone, but I can't tell you which was
more effective. I replaced the electronic clutch on the air conditioner
compressor with a rebuilt one (about $150) and I also replaced both fan
belts (about $25). I also used Permatex belt dressing (a spray can of stuff
worth $4) on both belts at the time of installing them.

> Hi all:
>
[quoted text clipped - 28 lines]
>
> Thanks!
Chuck - 15 Apr 2008 07:14 GMT
The last time I replaced the belts on my 99, I had a similar experience with
belt squealing. Turned out that the belts stretched, and after about three
cycles of adjustment, quit the squealing. (Squeal on startup, quits until
car sets for several hours or overnight.) Some brands of belts are worse
than others.  Most mechanics either use low cost replacements, or whatever
their favorite parts house carries. The belts that stretched the most on my
99 were Goodyear "gatorback" belts.  Some mechanics are either too lazy or
too ignorant to adjust the belts properly.

> Hi all:
>
[quoted text clipped - 28 lines]
>
> Thanks!
r0lliSl1fe - 15 Apr 2008 11:03 GMT
Actually the low cost belts tend to be just fine...and as far as
adjustment, well...if the belts are replaced, part of what you have to
know going in is that they will need to be tightened again in 5000
miles.  They are made of rubber, steel, and fabric, all of which
stretch and break in.

The process of belts is easy enough you should do it yourself.
Miata.net has a great write-up in the garage on how to do it.  Be
careful about AC and PS differences, though.

Now...OP...you provided us with 2/3 the info we need...you told us
WHEN the noise happens and what the mechanics say...but you never
described the noise itself.  It it squealing, screaming, bumping,
grinding, thumping, thrashing, sparking, tapping, glomping....?

My guess, since you replaced the belts last year...is that you never
had them re-tightened after 5K miles..  Or maybe you did?  Let us know
to help!

r0ll

> The last time I replaced the belts on my 99, I had a similar experience with
> belt squealing. Turned out that the belts stretched, and after about three
[quoted text clipped - 37 lines]
>
> > Thanks!
Genny - 15 Apr 2008 17:15 GMT
> Actually the low cost belts tend to be just fine...and as far as
> adjustment, well...if the belts are replaced, part of what you have to
[quoted text clipped - 64 lines]
>
> - Show quoted text -

The noise is a screeching high pitched noise... I'd even call it
screaming - it's horrific and embarrassing.

I don't put a lot of miles on the car (less than 3000 per year)

The belts are Goodyear - they look brand new still... and they aren't
loose.

I'm going to try belt dressing to see if that quiets the squeel... if
it does should I have them tightened?
Lanny Chambers - 15 Apr 2008 21:06 GMT
In article
<74097bfb-bbec-43e6-ad6e-68e879ec0d0d@c19g2000prf.googlegroups.com>,

> I'm going to try belt dressing to see if that quiets the squeel... if
> it does should I have them tightened?

You should have the belt tension checked, but overtightening can destroy
the alternator, power steering pump, or air conditioner compressor
bearings. If the tension is good, then you'll need to find the actual
cause.

I once had a belt that squealed for the first 30 seconds after starting
or idling at a traffic light. The cause was a tiny leak in the cam cover
gasket--it produced a drop of oil every minute or so, and if the car
wasn't moving the oil would land on the crank pulley, making the belt
squeal until it had burned off. A leaky water pump can do the same thing
with coolant.

FYI, Miata owners have always had fewer problems with genuine Mazda
belts from a dealer. It's one of those items (like brake pads and water
pumps) where it doesn't pay to scrimp.

Signature

Lanny Chambers
St. Louis, MO
'94C

Carbon - 16 Apr 2008 14:38 GMT

> FYI, Miata owners have always had fewer problems with genuine Mazda
> belts from a dealer. It's one of those items (like brake pads and water
> pumps) where it doesn't pay to scrimp.

That's interesting. I was thinking of getting aftermarket pads (like
Porterfield R4Ss below) when the time comes and I just naturally assumed
they would be better than the OEM stuff. By better, I assumed slightly
better braking performance and slightly shorter pad life). Not the case?

http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?
deptid=4539&parentid=0&stocknumber=14-39100%20%201990-93

I don't have any issues with the current pads. They are long-lasting and
don't squeal. Braking performance is very good, but of course there is a
lot of braking surface per pound of car weight. I may still get braided
brake lines.
Lanny Chambers - 16 Apr 2008 17:02 GMT
> That's interesting. I was thinking of getting aftermarket pads (like
> Porterfield R4Ss below) when the time comes and I just naturally assumed
> they would be better than the OEM stuff.

Aftermarket pads can solve specific braking problems. If you don't have
a problem, why search for a solution? No other pad has the combination
of low rotor wear, low noise, low dusting, long life, moderate pedal
pressure, and good fade resistance as OEM. All the rest present
compromises that you may or may not be willing to accept to solve a
specific problem.

The usual issue is fade resistance for track use--OEM pads are not quite
up to extreme heat, and noise, heavy dust, frequent rotor replacement,
etc., are not typically deal breakers on a track car.

On the street, if you can lock all four wheels on demand, seems to me
you have plenty of braking power.

> I may still get braided brake lines.

If the problem is a soft pedal, first try flushing and refilling with
new fluid. Next, add a master cylinder brace. Braided lines are mainly
for looks, and don't really work any better. They also require regular
inspection, as they tend to unscrew themselves.

Signature

Lanny Chambers
St. Louis, MO
'94C

pws - 16 Apr 2008 17:31 GMT
> Braided lines are mainly
> for looks, and don't really work any better. They also require regular
> inspection, as they tend to unscrew themselves.

Having owned two Miatas with braided brake lines and also having worked
on two more Miatas with them installed, I can assure everyone here that
they do not "tend" to unscrew themselves.

If that were the case, I think that I would have seen it happen at least
*once*, instead of never.

What they actually tend to do in my experience is work fine without any
problems at all. This assumes proper installation, of course.

Pat
Chuck - 16 Apr 2008 05:06 GMT
You can try (with the key off and the engine cold) taking a dry bar of your
favorite soap. (regular soap, not cosmetic soap.) and soaping the underside
of the belts where you can reach them. Turn the engine over with the key so
that different parts of the belts are exposed, and with the key off and the
engine stopped, soap the parts of the belts undersides that you missed.

No squeal?  Belts likely too loose. Squeals anyway? Belts really loose, oil
on pulleys, coolant on belts, problem with belt driven accessories or water
pump.

I had a squeal problem with both new belts, one at the power steering, the
other at the alternator. They were initially adjusted to the deflection
called for in the service manual. To stop the squealing, the gatorbacks had
to be tighter than the mazda OEM belts.

On Apr 15, 6:03 am, r0lliSl1fe <jerryn...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Actually the low cost belts tend to be just fine...and as far as
> adjustment, well...if the belts are replaced, part of what you have to
[quoted text clipped - 24 lines]
> > car sets for several hours or overnight.) Some brands of belts are worse
> > than others. Most mechanics either use low cost replacements, or
whatever
> > their favorite parts house carries. The belts that stretched the most on my
> > 99 were Goodyear "gatorback" belts. Some mechanics are either too lazy
or
> > too ignorant to adjust the belts properly.
>
[quoted text clipped - 36 lines]
>
> - Show quoted text -

The noise is a screeching high pitched noise... I'd even call it
screaming - it's horrific and embarrassing.

I don't put a lot of miles on the car (less than 3000 per year)

The belts are Goodyear - they look brand new still... and they aren't
loose.

I'm going to try belt dressing to see if that quiets the squeel... if
it does should I have them tightened?
 
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