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Car Forum / Mercedes-Benz Cars / December 2006

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abs light...

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news@mung - 12 Dec 2006 22:55 GMT
hi,
first car after 30 years riding bikes, had it 3 years now but its starting
to get weird...
1988 230TE, got some odd symptoms, been getting slowly worse, but after
finding the battery flat a few times I fitted a new battery but still get...

ABS light -comes on quite often when driving, stays on till engine stopped,
however can get it to come on when ticking over at a standstill when
engaging drive

Bulb Failed light - comes on randomly usually when selecting sidelights, but
only if the ignition is on

Brake pedal 'kicks' and makes a grinding noise (- ABS kicking in?)
occasionally when at a standstill in drive

Battery Charge Warning - glows faintly when in drive at tickover, fine at
anything over tickover or in any other gear position

I've tried cleaning ABS pickups, checking bulb ratings, cleaning as many
earths and contacts as I can find, but would like to test alternator output,
will a Voltmeter do it? I've read replacing the brake light switch can fix
the ABS light, not sure why - can I check it before replacing?
Any advice welcome !
cheers
bal
Tiger - 12 Dec 2006 23:36 GMT
Yes, you can check the alternator output with a voltmeter... best is 14.4V
with RPM about 1500RPM and the least is 13.5V at idle. Otherwise, your
alternator is weak and should be replaced. The fact that your battery charge
light lites up means something is already wrong with it. You can try just
changing the brushes... very easy job... two scres on back of alternator.
However, it is a temporary fix... you probably gets 3 years out of it before
problem comes back again.

Yes, change that brake switch... it is cheap enough to replace without
testing. Testing means nothing on brake switch.

As for bulb, you really need German bulbs to eliminate this problem... or
that you simply missed one bulb.
news@mung - 13 Dec 2006 00:06 GMT
> Yes, you can check the alternator output with a voltmeter... best is 14.4V
> with RPM about 1500RPM and the least is 13.5V at idle. Otherwise, your
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
> As for bulb, you really need German bulbs to eliminate this problem... or
> that you simply missed one bulb.

ok cheers for that mate i'll go round again tomorrow and recheck
everything - which brand bulbs are actually German?
also, just found some stuff says that the steering needs recentring after a
flat battery, how would I do that?
cheers again
Chas Hurst - 12 Dec 2006 23:52 GMT
> hi,
> first car after 30 years riding bikes, had it 3 years now but its starting
[quoted text clipped - 26 lines]
> cheers
> bal

Check the fuse on the overvoltage protection relay. Or it may be the relay
itself. It resides behind the battery.
The OVP makes all sorts of weird things happen when it goes bad, the ABS
light is one of them.
news@mung - 13 Dec 2006 00:14 GMT
> > hi,
> > first car after 30 years riding bikes, had it 3 years now but its starting
[quoted text clipped - 31 lines]
> The OVP makes all sorts of weird things happen when it goes bad, the ABS
> light is one of them.

cheers mate, um, how do I find/recognise the relay, and is there any way to
test it?
 - just nipped and looked, is that a removable cover behind the battery?
cheers for the assists!
Chas Hurst - 13 Dec 2006 00:53 GMT
> cheers mate, um, how do I find/recognise the relay, and is there any way
> to
> test it?
>  - just nipped and looked, is that a removable cover behind the battery?
> cheers for the assists!

Remove that cover. There should be 2 relays behind it, maybe only one if you
haven't A/C. The OVP relay has a fuse on top under a clear plastic cover.
Check the fuse and check for voltage at the fuse with the engine running. No
voltage means the relay is bad.
Tiger - 13 Dec 2006 03:58 GMT
Yes, I forgot about the OVP... located behind battery... behind the plastic
cover.
news@mung - 14 Dec 2006 16:57 GMT
> Yes, I forgot about the OVP... located behind battery... behind the plastic
> cover.

okay, cheers for the help so far but nothing doing yet
-Voltmeter showed about 13.5V at tickover no load and about 13V with lots of
things on so I guess that's ok...
- fitted new brake switch, no change
-tested the OVP relay and fuse and that's all working as well... anything
else I can try?
just had a thought re the bulb failure light, as it only comes on with the
ignition is there a relay controlling that?
all the best!
Tiger - 15 Dec 2006 00:25 GMT
How did you check for load? What is no load voltage at 1500 RPM?
news@mung - 19 Dec 2006 01:51 GMT
> How did you check for load? What is no load voltage at 1500 RPM?

----- Original Message -----
From: "Tiger" <tiger0002@hotmail.com>
Newsgroups: alt.auto.Mercedes
Sent: Friday, December 15, 2006 12:25 AM
Subject: Re: abs light...

> How did you check for load? What is no load voltage at 1500 RPM?

hi sorry for the delay been off on a course
I  just tested the Voltage at tickover with the headlights, flashers, radio
wipers and a few other bits on just to see if it held up, I think it was a
fraction over 13V at tickover
I'm pretty sure the alternator is fine because I just drove a hundred miles
with lights on without a hitch and it started fine after being left out in
the rain all night!
The ABS light now usually comes on  the first time I change into neutral or
drive after pulling off (pedal kicks a bit, and a second or two of pump
noise (?)
I think it actually stops working after this, now
I did notice quite a bad leak through the windscreen which seems to be going
behind the dash board....
guess that needs checking out   :(

cheers !
plus sorry I may have misdirected this initially - cockpit thrombosis....
news@mung - 20 Dec 2006 13:57 GMT
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tiger" <tiger0002@hotmail.com>
[quoted text clipped - 21 lines]
> cheers !
> plus sorry I may have misdirected this initially - cockpit thrombosis....

well that's another one for my big mouth...car started ok this morning
despite freezing fog, drove a couple of miles, came to restart.....
nothing.Flat as a pancake.
So how do I properly check out the alternator?
cheers all
Tiger - 21 Dec 2006 04:46 GMT
Any Autozone will test the battery and charging system for you... just drive
it there. Free...

Other places might charge you... but most auto parts store can test
alternator for free.
news@mung - 22 Dec 2006 10:12 GMT
> hi,
> first car after 30 years riding bikes, had it 3 years now but its starting
[quoted text clipped - 22 lines]
> cheers
> bal

well I bit the bullet and put it in to a shop this morning, see if the
professionals can come up with something, I expect some (probably expensive)
news this afternoon....
news@mung - 23 Dec 2006 18:32 GMT
> hi,
> first car after 30 years riding bikes, had it 3 years now but its starting
[quoted text clipped - 22 lines]
> cheers
> bal

FYI

well the man says he found 0.12A drain via 'courtesy light circuit' - is
that the internal lights that come on when you open the doors?
replaced ABS relay, I'm not sure which one this is but hey -ho
also some problem with the resistance of one front ABS sensor, but he
reckons they run out at about £90 each new, and says it may need the pair
replacing to keep the readings equal eeek, however might be able to source
second-hand pair at something more reasonable if I give him a few weeks
notice

Anyway, I think I read somewhere you need to 're-centre' the steering after
battery out, anyone know the drill? just turn lock to lock a few times or is
there more to it?
cheers
news@mung - 23 Dec 2006 20:03 GMT
> > hi,
> > first car after 30 years riding bikes, had it 3 years now but its starting
[quoted text clipped - 42 lines]
> there more to it?
> cheers

hmmm just noticed , while testing to see if the ABS actually functions even
when warning light is on - under 'quite' heavy braking the battery charge
light is coming on dimly, wonder if the brake lights are faulty somehow,
must check the earths and stuff - its 5-door so maybe lost a line or
something in the door....
cheers!
me - 23 Dec 2006 22:20 GMT
>> > hi,
>> > first car after 30 years riding bikes, had it 3 years now but its
[quoted text clipped - 74 lines]
> something in the door....
> cheers!

Sounds like your battery is suspect, I suggest you have it tested.

I do not know about a 1998, but on my 1999 ABS light can be reset by
1) start car 2) turn steering lock to lock (hold it the count of two
at each end and 3) Turn off car and restart it. Procedure is in the
manual.
news@mung - 24 Dec 2006 13:09 GMT
> >> > hi,
> >> > first car after 30 years riding bikes, had it 3 years now but its
[quoted text clipped - 81 lines]
> at each end and 3) Turn off car and restart it. Procedure is in the
> manual.

hi mate well the battery already got done last week, but good thought about
the manual, I forgot its actually quite useful, though I cant actually find
anything about it in there but cheers for the tip
(mines actually '88 but I'll try any way)
cheers!
Rob. Smith - 24 Dec 2006 21:25 GMT
>well the man says he found 0.12A drain via 'courtesy light circuit' - is
>that the internal lights that come on when you open the doors?
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>there more to it?
>cheers

Well, a 120mA drain on the battery is still not going to flatten a
good battery, unless you have left the car a couple of weeks. I think
that you are onto something with the charging light glowing. It
shouldn't do that. As I also recall, the alternator voltage regulator
is set to 13.8Volts and not higher. As suggested by others, change
this part. Its cheap and easy. Also, you need to check the circuitry
around the dash itself, particularly the +ve supply to the ignition
bulb (not the lead back to the alternator). This supply also works the
dash bulb test at ignition.
However
If you do have a good battery and it goes flat on its own, the usual
fault is a bad alternator rectifier diode. You will need an
oscilloscope to check that out, which you probably don't have. Take
another's advice and take the car to a proper
auto-electrical/alternator exchange shop. They can test it easily,
even if it costs a small amount. Unreliable is just that, and you need
the car to get you there and back.
ABS sensors.
Why is the guy not suggesting that you change all 4?. They all go into
the same box of electronics.
I had a low output sensor on my car for years. As long as the
amplitude is big enough for the ABS ECU to detect, it doesn't care.
Its looking for the waveform stopping (i.e. wheel locked up). If you
have a scope (again sorry), and the circuit diagram showing which
wheel attatches to what pin on the ABS ECU (sometimes referred to as a
brain), you can jack each wheel up, spin it and see the waveform at
the ABS ECU on its connector plug.
If you have a low output, its most likely due to a bad connection
between the sensor and the ABS ECU, or the sensor is not properly
seated in its hole (or dirty or the toothed wheel on the hub dirty).
If you do get a new sensor (singular !!), see if you can get one from
one of the alternative Merc bits suppliers. There seems to be a number
of  them in the UK (www.eurocarparts.co.uk or similar)

Merry xmas
Rob. Smith - 26 Dec 2006 01:30 GMT
Hello

Just checked Eurocarparts. Your man is quoting their price not the MB
price.
£90 each (more or less). Ouch.

Better it be just the one then if it does need replacing?.

Cheers...   Rob.
news@mung - 27 Dec 2006 22:38 GMT
> >well the man says he found 0.12A drain via 'courtesy light circuit' - is
> >that the internal lights that come on when you open the doors?

snip

> >Anyway, I think I read somewhere you need to 're-centre' the steering after
> >battery out, anyone know the drill? just turn lock to lock a few times or is
[quoted text clipped - 36 lines]
>
> Merry xmas

hi there
the new battery did last most of a week, and it was under pretty extreme use
so I think the drain may well have been enough to flatten it, seems to be
behaving better now, at least under more 'friendly' driving conditions.
The alternator tested out ok at the sparky's, and it shows about 14V on  a
cheapo meter now, so its probably within spec and I couldn't detect any
drain when I retested myself (same meter though...) but I am definitely
going to have to go in and check behind the dash.
Hopefully the charging is up to snuff now
The ABS only has three sensors - four is traction control I believe -the guy
said the two need to have similar resistance, and a 20 year old one is
fairly unlikely to match a brand new one, which made sense to me. I've
cleaned the business ends of the sensors - pretty messy, and cleaned all the
contacts I could find but I will try cleaning out the gear properly, that's
a good thought.I've found a few places with second-hand ones at about £60-70
a pair, but I will try the local scrappy's and see if I can find a close
enough donor, should work out cheaper if I can pull them myself, though it
would be nice to be able to test them somehow, measure the resistance I
suppose

cheers

Happy New Year!
 
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