The garage set up my idle speed too high, around 1,200 RPM. I understand
it's supposed to be about 800 RPM. How may I change it without taking
the car back to the shop at $90 an hour?
It just runs annoyingly fast at idle.
T.G. Lambach - 14 Dec 2006 01:43 GMT
T.G. Lambach - 14 Dec 2006 01:54 GMT
Personally, I'd take it back to the shop and have them adjust it to the
correct idle speed - about 750 rpm. They should do so (at no charge) as
they somehow messed it up, maybe by bending the throttle linkage. Once
YOU intervene their hands are clean, no matter what's wrong.
If YOU insist, there's an idle stop screw with a lock nut between the
injection pump and the block - you'll need a deep 5/8 socket to loosen
and tighten the lock nut and a long blade screw driver to turn the
adjustment screw. However, I strongly urge you to first check that the
throttle lever does, in fact rest against that stop screw at idle before
doing anything in the way of adjustment.
Shops rarely adjust diesel idle speeds so its very doubtful that the
idle stop adjustment is the cause but rather something in the linkage or
idle controller if your motor has one of those (you didn't give its
vintage).
me - 14 Dec 2006 02:12 GMT
> Personally, I'd take it back to the shop and have them adjust it to
> the correct idle speed - about 750 rpm. They should do so (at no
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
> linkage or idle controller if your motor has one of those (you
> didn't give its vintage).
I had this same symptom happen to me once. The problem turned out to
be that my drivers side motor mount had collapsed and the engine had
settled (listed?) to the point where the linkage could not return to
"normal". The mechanic I took it to showed me this on the lift (how
embarrassing)
T.G. Lambach - 14 Dec 2006 03:49 GMT
That's not embarrassing, it just happened. Not something that you
screwed up and then had to go, with your tail between your legs so to
speak, to a shop and say "Oh, please fix MY mistake."
This owner paid for service and got service and then some. He ought to
have that shop explain the discrepancy.
Richard Sexton - 14 Dec 2006 05:28 GMT
>The garage set up my idle speed too high, around 1,200 RPM. I understand
>it's supposed to be about 800 RPM. How may I change it without taking
>the car back to the shop at $90 an hour?
What the hell kind of incompetant shop adjusts the idle on
a diesel. You NEVER do that.
What problem were they trying to solve by doing this?
Worst case a new rack damper bolt and two cans of Diesel Purge
fixes any diesel idle problems.
There's an idle adjustment screw on the IP, with a locknut. It's
in the manual. My manual is packed away in a box. If you call
the shop they should be able to tell you where it is.

Signature
Need Mercedes parts? http://parts.mbz.org
Richard Sexton | Mercedes stuff: http://mbz.org
1970 280SE, 72 280SE | Home pages: http://rs79.vrx.net
633CSi 250SE/C 300SD | http://aquaria.net http://killi.net
Gogarty - 14 Dec 2006 13:03 GMT
Thanks, guys. I will take it back to the shop. (It's a 1981 617, by the
way). Seems that in the course of chnaging fluid and filters they also
screwed up the transmission, which is now reluctant to upshift. Sigh. I
just changed mechanics because the old one, who rebuilt this car and knows
it thoroughly, moved his business thirty miles away. It takes an hour to
drive there on a good day but getting home by train, bus and subway is
another two hours. As Brooklyn boys dating Bronx girls used to say (maybe
they still do) he became GU -- Geographically Undesirable.
Richard Sexton - 14 Dec 2006 14:21 GMT
>Thanks, guys. I will take it back to the shop. (It's a 1981 617, by the
>way). Seems that in the course of chnaging fluid and filters they also
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>another two hours. As Brooklyn boys dating Bronx girls used to say (maybe
>they still do) he became GU -- Geographically Undesirable.
Yeah they still say that. But your mechanic is like my girlfriend. Worth
the travel time.

Signature
Need Mercedes parts? http://parts.mbz.org
Richard Sexton | Mercedes stuff: http://mbz.org
1970 280SE, 72 280SE | Home pages: http://rs79.vrx.net
633CSi 250SE/C 300SD | http://aquaria.net http://killi.net
Gogarty - 15 Dec 2006 13:18 GMT
>>Thanks, guys. I will take it back to the shop. (It's a 1981 617, by the
>>way). Seems that in the course of chnaging fluid and filters they also
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>Yeah they still say that. But your mechanic is like my girlfriend. Worth
>the travel time.
Yup. Next time I beg forgiveness and make the journey.
Nothing wrong with the new guy. Indeeed, he once worked for the old guy's
father. But his pricing seems arbitrary and I don't feel as confident with
him.
Tiger - 14 Dec 2006 15:57 GMT
Sounds like a vacuum hose got loose since it also affected your tranny.
heav - 14 Dec 2006 16:13 GMT
You will need a very long, deep well 14mm socket to loosen the lock nut
on the adjustment screw. It is a pretty straightforward job. The idle
adjust is between the injection pump and the block/head of the engine.
I have had good luck just loosening the nut and then adjusting the idle
and then retightening the nut. The screw seems to stay in place when I
tighten the nut with a socket. A better choice of wrench might me some
sort of special 14mm open end wrench that has a right angle bend near
the end so you can hold the screw steady with a screwdriver when you
tighten the nut.
It has been a long time since I have had to adjust that. I may have
used an open end 14mm to get the nut sort of tight while holding the
screw in place with a screwdriver and then used the socket to
completely tighten the nut after that.
Here are some images of the screw and its placement:
http://inyopro.com/idle_screw.jpg
http://inyopro.com/idle_screw_placement.jpg
> The garage set up my idle speed too high, around 1,200 RPM. I understand
> it's supposed to be about 800 RPM. How may I change it without taking
> the car back to the shop at $90 an hour?
>
> It just runs annoyingly fast at idle.