I have Mercedes 500 SEL (1985). recently engine died on the road. Can
not restart. Here is more details to the problem.
1. Fuel pump does not run with ignition key "ON". It does work when
connected directly (both wires).
2. Fuel pump relay MAKES A CLICK AT THE MOMENT WHEN NEGATIVE CABLE IS
RECONNECTED TO THE BATTERY , with ignition key not in the lock (!?).
3. I found that ignition control module (Bosh) has inside burned
resistor (R 24, which is mounted on the inside of the ICU box). For
that reason the value on the reistor is unreadable. Anyway I found the
detailed circuit for Volvo car with similar engine with value 310 kOm.
After repair engine did not start anyway.
4. One more problem, .RADIO GOES ON ANY TIME I TRY TO TURN AN IGNITION
KEY.
5. When cranking, distributor sends to the ICU signal about 1,5-3,0 V.
Distributor cup and rotor are new. Ignition wires are new. Ignition
coil was replaced a few Years ago. Fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel
injectors are new. Battrey is brand new . Everything did work
perfectly until now.
Does somebody have any idea if these problems are related to the
possible short or ground in an ignition lock? I found that Volvo
amateurs do this kind of repair almost routinely. Each separate
component for ICU module cost abut 5 Dollars or less, ICU itself even
used at least $115.00.
Thank you for any advice. A.N.
Tiger - 03 Jan 2007 17:54 GMT
> 1. Fuel pump does not run with ignition key "ON". It does work when
> connected directly (both wires).
> 2. Fuel pump relay MAKES A CLICK AT THE MOMENT WHEN NEGATIVE CABLE IS
> RECONNECTED TO THE BATTERY , with ignition key not in the lock (!?).
Don't care whether it clicks or not. What is the date stamped on the side of
the unit? It is the one cigarette box size with the word kickdown on it. If
it is more than 10 years old, change it.
I would also check the overload relay... the one with red fuse on top. Check
the fuse. If burnt, replace it.
me - 03 Jan 2007 18:08 GMT
>> 1. Fuel pump does not run with ignition key "ON". It does work
>> when
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
> I would also check the overload relay... the one with red fuse on
> top. Check the fuse. If burnt, replace it.
Wiring harness disintegration?
A.N. - 03 Jan 2007 18:28 GMT
> >> 1. Fuel pump does not run with ignition key "ON". It does work
> >> when
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
>
> Wiring harness disintegration?
Thank you for advice. I replaced the relay about 4 years ago. I check
all fuses in the main fuse box, and two fuses which are closer to the
front of the vehicle in separate housing.
Wiring harness looks OK. Only unusual thing was water dripping
sometimes after rain from the heating duct right under steering wheel.
I also suspected ignition lock. Unfortunately I don't know how to get
to the ignition lock. Do you know how? Thank you very much for your
help. A.N.
Tiger - 03 Jan 2007 22:48 GMT
Mmm...I would jumper the fuel pump to run... I don't have manual handy now
to tell you what pins to jump and try to start the car.
The overload relay fuse is the on on top of the relay... also located in
your fuse box... it is a standard US ATO fuse... blade type. I would suspect
the overload relay bad if you still can't start your car.
Wire is not an issue.
Ignition switch should not be an issue if you got all the dash lights come
on as normally. Most of the time, when ignition switch goes bad, you have
hard time getting the AC fan to come on.
Take A Guess - 03 Jan 2007 18:08 GMT
I'd sure suspect the ignition (key) switch - before anything else.
Radio's actions make the key switch the top suspect, IMHO.