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Car Forum / Mercedes-Benz Cars / January 2007How to read diagnostic codes from a car computer?
Hello, In my car Mazda 2002 MPV engine light was turned on. I am going to a dealer to check it, but browsing through internet I found information that actually I can to do this test myself - what I need is a software and some adapter that will connect my car to PC, and I plan to do this in a future. Here are my questions: Where can I find a FAQ with description how to do it? Can I connect it to PocketPC device? Can I connect it to USB port on a laptop? What kind of software do you recommend? Thanks, Zalek http://obddiagnostics.com/order.html gb "There's no way to rule innocent men. The only power any government has is the power to crack down on criminals. Well, when there aren't enough criminals, one makes them. One declares so many things to be a crime that it becomes impossible to live without breaking laws." -- Ayn Rand, Atlas Shrugged > Hello, > [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > > Zalek > "There's no way to rule innocent men. The only power any government has > is the power to crack down on criminals. Well, when there aren't enough > criminals, one makes them. One declares so many things to be a crime > that it becomes impossible to live without breaking laws." > > -- Ayn Rand, Atlas Shrugged Brilliant philosophy, common sense, or physics? The only natural laws are those of physics and chemistry, and even chemistry, becomes physics when you take it small enough. Laws and rights of humans are human-made and in continual flux and interpretive change responding to what society perceives should be the demands upon a particular civilization to best increase its chances for survival. Rights (liberty) and law (order) are in constant conflict because each contains both benefit and deleteriousness. Excess of liberty ends in licentiousness and violence; excess of order ends in tyranny. Unrestrained, either results in society's collapse. I have a 1997 Ford Aspire with check engine light lit. It lit when my radiator hose broke and sprayed water on the distributer last year. Will a code reader clear the code and turn off my light? I know from experience that Ford will charge more than $75 for this job. I am not familiar with Ford Aspire and not sure why you posted this question to other non-Ford newsgroups. That said, most vehicles will reset the computerized check engine light by simply removing the (negative is easier and safer) battery connection for about 20 seconds and then shorting the cable terminals (not the battery terminals!) together to make sure they are discharged, then re-connecting the battery. You may lose radio station preselects and/or run a bit rough till it relearns the system, but it should reset the computer and CEL. Bob >I have a 1997 Ford Aspire with check engine light lit. It lit when my >radiator hose broke and sprayed water on the distributer last year. Will a >code reader clear the code and turn off my light? I know from experience >that Ford will charge more than $75 for this job. > Hello, > [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > > Zalek http://www.autoenginuity.com/products-software.html#EI05 Is USB and/or serial supported. For $59.00 they will sell you a dual license to use on a pocket PC. Scroll up and click on the FAQs link. Their support is excellent. >Hello, > [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > >Zalek You can buy an OBD2 code reader for less than the software and adapter to fit your laptop.  SignaturePosted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com A code reader is simply a code reader.... All they can access are memory codes and these will lead the inexperienced or unwary astray far too easily (usually resulting in many, many unnecessary parts purchases). From what I have seen of the AutoEnginuity, it is much more than a code reader... it is, indeed, a diagnostic tool... I understand that the user can perform both KEOE On Demand testing and KOER OnDemand testing. Also, it is capable of displaying PID data (a very important feature in any scan tool). It is CAN network capable but I am unsure if it will allow active command modes or communicate with proprietary modules (used properly, these features can be a Godsend). Picture yourself clinging to the face of a craggy mountain.... a code reader is a pair of flipflops... a good scan tool is a pair of sturdy hiking boots and a rope.... Look for a post titled "OBD2 for Dummies".... > A code reader is simply a code reader.... All they can access are memory > codes and these will lead the inexperienced or unwary astray far too easily [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > modes or communicate with proprietary modules (used properly, these features > can be a Godsend). Jim, it will activate commands and it does communicate with proprietary modules. It will even burn a new PATS key. > Picture yourself clinging to the face of a craggy mountain.... a code reader > is a pair of flipflops... a good scan tool is a pair of sturdy hiking boots > and a rope.... Great analogy. You really should write for one of the trade publications you know... > Look for a post titled "OBD2 for Dummies".... I was just worried that I was starting to sound like an ad for AE.... I understand that it is a very good system and quite capable... especially considering the price. In all honesty, I firmly believe that those cheapy code readers are a waste of money... > I was just worried that I was starting to sound like an ad for AE.... I > understand that it is a very good system and quite capable... especially > considering the price. So far, I'm quite pleased given that the Pro enhanced package was only $800 and comes with free updates. GM and Ford are top notch, the Chrysler is still being worked on, but over all, it's a very complete package. > In all honesty, I firmly believe that those cheapy code readers are a waste > of money... I agree. Kind of like stepping back to 1980 and EEC-111 tell me more about this.. I just did some searching and it looks like I can buy cables for around $20 to hook the OBDII to my laptop and then there's around a billion or so software options, many with free demos? sounds intriguing >>Hello, >> [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > You can buy an OBD2 code reader for less than the software and adapter > to fit your laptop. > Hello, > [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > > Zalek Guys - browsing the Web I found this device - what do you think about it? http://www.ecrater.com/product.php?pid=559493 Thanks, Zalek I see a code reader..... The woodworking newsgroup has a saying... "Buy the best and only cry once....". FYI: I went to Autozone when the idiot light appeared on my truck. Autozone will provide the test for free and will also reset the diagnostic unit. I am not sure but I think Advance Auto will also provide this service for free. Yet another $.02 worth from a proud owner of a 2001 Ranger 4x4 and a 1970 Mach 1 351C @ http://community.webshots.com/album/18644819fHAehGJAjt > Hello, > [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > > Zalek > FYI: I went to Autozone when the idiot light appeared on my truck. > Autozone will provide the test for free and will also reset the diagnostic > unit. I am not sure but I think Advance Auto will also provide this > service for free. The local Autozone would read the codes but would not reset them. Disconnecting the battery does not work. Waiting a year for them to reset on their own does not work. So I am considering buying a code reader from Harbor Freight for $50. >> FYI: I went to Autozone when the idiot light appeared on my truck. >> Autozone will provide the test for free and will also reset the diagnostic [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > on their own does not work. So I am considering buying a code reader from > Harbor Freight for $50. Did it ever occur to you that the reason the light doesn't go off, or stay off, is because there is actually a PROBLEM with the car??? Have AZ read the fault code and post the actual code here, for starters. >>> FYI: I went to Autozone when the idiot light appeared on my truck. >>> Autozone will provide the test for free and will also reset the [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > because there is actually a PROBLEM with the car??? Have AZ read the fault > code and post the actual code here, for starters. Usually if you reset the ECU, the MIL will go off for about two Driving Cycles. If it comes back on, then re-read and diagnose. If it doesn't, so much the better! But, I am not in favor of resetting the ECU so that when you bring it to the dealer or someone competent, they can review the history... With this, you are throwing yourself at the mercy of AZ.... Replacing parts at the whim of a continuous code has gotten expensive for many owners... We can fix absolutely anything if we throw enough parts and enough wasted time at it.... My customers don't like rolling dice... they want their car fixed and they want it done right - Whatever floats your boat but we should refrain from comparing a carefully prepared steak sandwich to a Big Mac. I had no problem whatsoever. I wrote down the code(s) that were displayed by the AZ tech tester(looking over his shoulder) and then diagnosed the problem using the code(s) (using readily available information). Fixed the problem (replacing one component) *myself* without the expense of buying a test device. And yes, to each his/her own. This poster is asking about providing potential solutions to their problem and the aforementioned method is a valid technique. Whether it is *your* preferred solution is a whole different 55 gallon drum of worms... Yet another $.02 worth from a proud owner of a 2001 Ranger 4x4 and a 1970 Mach 1 351C @ http://community.webshots.com/album/18644819fHAehGJAjt > With this, you are throwing yourself at the mercy of AZ.... Replacing parts > at the whim of a continuous code has gotten expensive for many owners... We [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > Whatever floats your boat but we should refrain from comparing a carefully > prepared steak sandwich to a Big Mac. And I will bet that the code was a P0401 or a P0404... these are "no brainer" codes. Ford issued a TSB several years ago that "streamlined" the diagnositcs for these codes.... "replace the DPFE and re-evaluate"..... duhhhh!! My preferred solution is to ensure that my customer doesn't have a repeat concern.... that my customer isn't standing in a parking lot looking over the shoulder of a parts counter guess-man instead of pursuing his own life.... In reality, my "preferred" solution isn't really mine... it is, indeed, the customer that feels his time is better spent with his family, his work or his recreation that looks to me for a one visit fix. This, I deliver... with no need for he or she to look over my shoulder or worry about repeat failures. You, sir, appear to have one experience with "free code reading" and came out lucky..... OTOH, I am regularly presented with someone that is dipping in to their rent money looking for a "cheap fix" - and now I am tasked with undoing any damage that has been incurred along the way.... along with resolving the original concern. For this, I am called many names.... For "free code reading" being a "valid" technique... I can hear the dice rolling as I type..... I can assure you that the parts-person standing with code reader in hand is no better versed in auto repair than the hopeful victim standing helpless beside him. While spending 50 or 100 bucks at a crack for guesswork may seem cheaper than biting the bullet, those that need timely diagnosis and financially sound repair decisions seem prone to opening themselves to unecessary expense.... If it was as simple as you believe, I'd be out of a job and I would never again have to hear "but those other guys already have all my money"... You can just regard me as a conscientious dealer tech that has learned a lot along the way... and one of those is that "cheap ain't". All one needs to do is look at all the "try this" type of posts.... If we replace enough parts, we will eventually fix the concern... Enjoy.... >I had no problem whatsoever. I wrote down the code(s) that were > displayed by the AZ tech tester(looking over his shoulder) and then [quoted text clipped - 26 lines] >> carefully >> prepared steak sandwich to a Big Mac. > And I will bet that the code was a P0401 or a P0404... these are "no > brainer" codes. Ford issued a TSB several years ago that "streamlined" the [quoted text clipped - 33 lines] > > Enjoy.... Jim, how many kids do you have? I'd suggest you would try to have more. My point is that good dealer techs should breed a lot more than they do today, otherwise they become extinct (intentionally no smiley here). I would take my car to an expert like you any time and would happily pay more than I pay my dealer today, when I cannot avoid paying at all. The point is that so many seem to have so poor expertise at their dealers, so many dealers today first clear the fault code and hope it is gone, then try changing parts even if the problem is elsewhere and should be easy to identify from experience (and knowledge). The local dealers do not even seem to read the info they get from MB or the WIS. Take your car to AutoZone - they will read it for free. > Hello, > [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > > Zalek >Take your car to AutoZone - they will read it for free. > [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] >> >> Zalek As Jim Warman has said - they will read it for free, but they won't understand it any better than you do. The codes can send an experienced tech running in circles sometimes, because the problem the computer sees (the code it displays) is the RESULT of the problem, not always the cause. An engine can throw a "lean run" type code without any code referring to the O2 sensor, and the O2 sensor can be the fault. Likewise, it can throw an O2 sensor code when it is actually something causing the engine to run so rich or so lean that the O2 sensor can't clock. - Many other situations like that where you can end up replacing a bushel of parts and still not find the problem. The dealer tech has the best chance of finding the problem first try - because he's more likely to already have seen it before. A good independent who is familiar with make and model CAN be just as good, but you don't know until you try. The partscounter guy at AutoZone? The service is only worth something if YOU know what to look for for a given code. He sure doesn't, unless he's a mechanic who for some physical reason has had to quit wrenching and is now making a living selling parts. They are few and far between, but you MIGHT get lucky - there are a few out there. SignaturePosted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com >>Take your car to AutoZone - they will read it for free. >> [quoted text clipped - 33 lines] > and is now making a living selling parts. They are few and far > between, but you MIGHT get lucky - there are a few out there. Guess I have been lucky then.... On my Eclipse had them read it and it took right to the error - up to me to figure it out but got it right with the first part. Had a code on my T100 - same thing - it took me to a loose hose. ALWAYS worth getting them to read it first!!!! |
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