Yes.

No.

"Alignment" consists of caster, camber and toe-in. On can get these
"pretty close" but it's not easily done for the caster and camber. But
toe-in is easy and changing the tie rod ends will affect ONLY the toe-in.

To have accuracy one needs to know the car's front and rear track width
and wheelbase to calculate the toe-in angle's front wheel to rear wheel
target. Front/rear track difference + toe-in angle x wheelbase length =
the target distance from the center of the rear alloy wheel.

Alternatively, one can place a 6 or 8cm wide bottle or block next to the
center (ground contact point) of each rear tire.

Center the steering wheel and let the car roll to a stop or brake it
with the parking brake (so not to pull on either front wheel). One then
holds a 5cm wide x 30+/-cm block against the front alloy, not tire, and
sight back to its respective rear wheel target block.

Lengthen or shorten each tie rod to adjust the front wheel toe-in so one
sees the wheel's respective sight target (outer edge). Adjusting each
side, if needed, will keep the steering wheel centered.

This sounds complicated but is quite simple after done once or twice.

The tie rod clamps should be torqued to about 15 ft lbs.

Guenter... If I were you, I'd change the whole thing... the whole tie rod.
If you price it out... you will see it is still damn cheap. Loose steering
is also because of idler arm bushing too... so don't forget this.

I will be doing my entire steering rack... it is just too damn loose at
204,000 miles.