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Car Forum / Mercedes-Benz Cars / June 2007Electrical Gurus I Need Help- '84 300D
Help! My 84 300D (Cali car) lost power to the headlights. I traced the power and found that there is no 12V+ going to the fuse box for circuits 11 and 13 (left and right headlights/fog lamps) When I jumper a hot lead to the back side of either of those fuse circuits, the headlights come on (with the dash switch on). The car had been in an accident with damage to the right front fender area but everything is fixed and I cannot see any obvious problems. Does anyone know where the power to those circuits comes from? Does 12V go to the headlight switch first then the fuse box or the other way around? I suspect the latter but don't have an electrical diagram. This problem happened last year and I searched for the problem. The lights started working again without fixing anything (that I was aware of anyway). I suspect a loose connections SOMEWHERE. I am temped to just run a new power lead to the back side of the fuse box but wanted to query the group first. Anyone? Diesel Dude schrieb: > Help! My 84 300D (Cali car) lost power to the headlights. I traced > the power and found that there is no 12V+ going to the fuse box for [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > lead to the back side of the fuse box but wanted to query the group > first. Anyone? Could be 16A fuse nr 6. The lights are doubly fused. Wiring goes from battery 30 at the ignition key via general fuse 6 to the wiper/turn signal switch and then to the lamp switch. After this switch the different lamp units are separately fused again. The wiper motor working? (reading a diagram of W123 280E '82)  SignatureRoland Franzius ...> Wiring goes from > battery 30 at the ignition key via general fuse 6 to the wiper/turn > signal switch and then to the lamp switch. After this switch the > different lamp units are separately fused again. The wiper motor > working? (reading a diagram of W123 280E '82) I don't mean to hijack this thread-so please just give a quick reply, and we will leave the topic alone, but by the above reply I woudl be under the impression that the ignition needs to be on for the headlights to be on. Perhaps even that turning the wipers on will turn the lights on? This is not the case with my car. Is that wrong? I have noticed that there is no buzzer to warn me that I am leaving my lights on. I've considered installing a relay that will shut my lights off once the ignition is off, but have not gotten around to it. Incidentally, I am talking about an 84 300D. Bill weelliott@gmail.com schrieb: > ...> Wiring goes from >> battery 30 at the ignition key via general fuse 6 to the wiper/turn [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > headlights to be on. Perhaps even that turning the wipers on will turn > the lights on? This is not the case with my car. Is that wrong? No. I didnt read the diagram quite correctly. In the W123 280E '82 diagram the headlights full beam get current via fuse 1, 3, the low beam via fuse 11,13 and are switched over with the combi lever switch. Backwards from the combi switch there are two different circuits for normal high and low and high beam warning signal. The high beam warning toghether with the wiper goes via fuse 6 to 15 R battery via ignition key. The low beam lamp connects directly to the lamp turn-switch 56 which connects directly to battery 30. Fog front lights go to turn-switch N pull position, the other contact NSF to fuse 5 and then to turn-switch 30-battery. > I have > noticed that there is no buzzer to warn me that I am leaving my lights > on. I've considered installing a relay that will shut my lights off > once the ignition is off, but have not gotten around to it. > Incidentally, I am talking about an 84 300D. Could be the buzzer in the dash, a one way switch diode between dash lamps dimmer and buzzer at 58, the buzzer door open switch or the ceiling lamp switch. SignatureRoland Franzius OK, I'm still at a loss on this problem. I probably need the actual wiring diagram for my model. Anyone have one for an '84 300D? So, is this correct? Power goes from battery to ignition key then to the headlight switch then to the fuse circuits and finally to the headlights? Weird if true. I really need to isolate this problem soon as the car is used as a daily driver. Since the problem occurred previously then disappeared and now it's back, I don't think a blown fuse is the problem and since I back fed the circuit and it worked, I just need to know where circuit 11 and 13 are taking power from. I worry about back feeding the power and creating other problems. The wipers work correctly. The headlights will come on with hi/low stem pulled and ignition on. Park lights work properly as well. Just no headlights. > Could be 16A fuse nr 6. The lights are doubly fused. Wiring goes from > battery 30 at the ignition key via general fuse 6 to the wiper/turn [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > Roland Franzius No... everything is done through relay because otherwise that one ignitions wire would be as thick as battery cable wire. Ignition switch would then go to overload relay to switch other ciruit live... headlight switch would trigger the relay to turn on headlight and so forth. Everything is done through relay Ok, so I need to check for relay(s) not working? Where is the headlight relay located for my model? Under hood or dash? Any tips for checking these things? Thanks > No... everything is done through relay because otherwise that one ignitions > wire would be as thick as battery cable wire. > > Ignition switch would then go to overload relay to switch other ciruit > live... headlight switch would trigger the relay to turn on headlight and so > forth. Everything is done through relay It should be in the fuse box... most are in there. I am just not sure where on W123... I know W124 and W126 are in the fusebox. > It should be in the fuse box... most are in there. I am just not sure where > on W123... I know W124 and W126 are in the fusebox. The W123 has no relais for lights. SignatureRoland Franzius Then it must be the headlight switch itself or simply bad fuse... pull out the fuse and check if it is corroded... Don't just look while fuse is in place. MB fuses are notorious for looking okay while it is not. MB headlight switches are damn near bulletproof. 99.9% of the time, it is a bad combi switch. Replace the turn sign switch. > Then it must be the headlight switch itself or simply bad fuse... pull out > the fuse and check if it is corroded... Don't just look while fuse is in > place. MB fuses are notorious for looking okay while it is not. OK, thanks Karl. I'll be checking that circuit tomorrow. Are these switches easy to replace? Can I get one from after market dealers or do I have to go to MB direct? Cheers > MB headlight switches are damn near bulletproof. > > 99.9% of the time, it is a bad combi switch. > > Replace the turn sign switch. Go here http://www.importeccatalog.com/ and put 005 545 4124 in part number search. > OK, thanks Karl. I'll be checking that circuit tomorrow. Are these > switches easy to replace? Can I get one from after market dealers or [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > > > Replace the turn sign switch. Karl, you were right on the money. I traced circuit 56 from the headlight switch to the combination switch on the column. Sure enough that wire had become unsoldered at the combination switch and couldn't complete the circuit. It was a bit burnt from arcing but I cleaned it up a bit and just resoldered it. Low and behold the lights work again. If it acts up again I'll buy the new switch ($100.) Thanks very much for your help. > Go herehttp://www.importeccatalog.com/and put 005 545 4124 > in part number search. [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > > > > Replace the turn sign switch. Karl, you were right on the money. I traced circuit 56 from the headlight switch to the combination switch on the column. Sure enough that wire had become unsoldered at the combination switch and couldn't complete the circuit. It was a bit burnt from arcing but I cleaned it up a bit and just resoldered it. Low and behold the lights work again. If it acts up again I'll buy the new switch ($100.) Thanks very much for your help. > Go herehttp://www.importeccatalog.com/and put 005 545 4124 > in part number search. [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > > > > Replace the turn sign switch. Karl, you were right on the money. I traced circuit 56 from the headlight switch to the combination switch on the column. Sure enough that wire had become unsoldered at the combination switch and couldn't complete the circuit. It was a bit burnt from arcing but I cleaned it up a bit and just resoldered it. Low and behold the lights work again. If it acts up again I'll buy the new switch ($100.) Thanks very much for your help. > Go herehttp://www.importeccatalog.com/and put 005 545 4124 > in part number search. [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > > > > Replace the turn sign switch. Diesel Dude schrieb: > OK, I'm still at a loss on this problem. I probably need the actual > wiring diagram for my model. Anyone have one for an '84 300D? So, is > this correct? > Power goes from battery to ignition key then to the headlight switch > then to the fuse circuits and finally to the headlights? Weird if > true. All lamps are separately fused so it makes no sense to put a 40tysome contact switch between the fuses and the lamps. The wiring is: battery 30 -- 30 lamp switch 56 -- 56 lever switch 56a/b -- fuse box <== fuses 7,9 high,11,13low == lamps. If both headlights full and low beam are off there will be a slack joint at light switch 56 or along the white/yellow cable to the lever switch. From there on to the fuse box low and high beam 56a/b are separated. Cable colors are white and yellow. Main suspect would be a slack joint at contact 56 of the cable connector at the lever switch inside the steering wheel cover. SignatureRoland Franzius Thanks Roland, I will take a look at those cables and the lever switch for a loose connection. This is the information I was looking for. Do you have a wiring diagram for this model? Cheers > The wiring is: battery 30 -- 30 lamp switch 56 -- 56 lever switch 56a/b > -- fuse box <== fuses 7,9 high,11,13low == lamps. [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > > Roland Franzius Have you checked your overload relay? Re: my C200 elegance 1994/95.I am changing both ignition coils.I lost the wiring diagram.HELP PLEASE [i.e whitch wire goes to which coil terminal ? (there is 4wires:black,blake + white,and 2 pink+red wires). MUCH OBLIGED. > Re: my C200 elegance 1994/95.I am changing both ignition coils.I lost the > wiring diagram.HELP PLEASE [i.e whitch wire goes to which coil terminal ? > (there is 4wires:black,blake + white,and 2 pink+red wires). MUCH OBLIGED. The two red/pink wires at 15 are connected to Z3/29 which is contact 15 at the relais module fuse 5 relais/fuse module passenger side (fused plus battery). Black white wire is going from coil T1/1 to contact 21, black one from T1/2 to contact 9 of the motor control HFM unit. Hope it helps. SignatureRoland Franzius Sorry What I need is far simpler than what you suggest. I only need to know how to connect those 4 wires to the terminals (stud like) connectors, that are physically on the body of the ignition coils. thanks Sorry What I need is far simpler than what you suggest. I only need to know how to connect those 4 wires to the terminals (stud like) connectors, that are physically on the body of the ignition coils. thanks Thank you Roland Franzius.The problem is :the ignition coit terminals are not marked T/1 and T/2,there is no markings at all !!.So to find out which is which?.ANY IDEA?.THANK YOU aziza schrieb: > Thank you Roland Franzius.The problem is :the ignition coit terminals are > not marked T/1 and T/2,there is no markings at all !!.So to find out which > is which?.ANY IDEA?.THANK YOU T1 is front, T2 is back. The jacks are numbered at the small side. Normally the different length of the cables is giving you the correct coil. SignatureRoland Franzius |
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