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Car Forum / Mercedes-Benz Cars / May 2007

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Buying and repairing older diesel Mercedes

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jefftino - 26 May 2007 21:32 GMT
I would like to know your two cents worth as to the best year/version
diesel Mercedes under $5,000.  4 doors and easiest to work on at
home.  Thanks!

Jeff
LT - 26 May 2007 22:06 GMT
The 1982 Mercedes-Benz 300D Turbo Diesel!  I have one, for $6000 US.

> I would like to know your two cents worth as to the best year/version
> diesel Mercedes under $5,000.  4 doors and easiest to work on at
> home.  Thanks!
>
> Jeff
Tiger - 26 May 2007 22:50 GMT
Any diesels are easy to work on at home. I bought my 95 E300D for $6000. You
should be able to find one for that price range of yours too... The newer
the better. Don't get caught up on those high priced old old old diesel. Buy
one with reasonable price and condition.
-->> T.G. Lambach <<-- - 27 May 2007 00:38 GMT
The absolute simplest one is the 240D 4 speed manual - if one can be
found. These were sold until '82 or '83.

Then I'd look at a 300D Turbodiesel; these came in three body varieties
300D sedan, 300CD two door coupe (less head room, much less read seat
leg room) and 300SD - larger body, same power train as the others, more
comfortable car. Suggest you look for a 300XX '83 - '85 vintage.

These old 5 cylinder diesels are all cast iron and just as durable as
can be BUT the have mechanically adjusted valves (adjust every 15K miles
with engine cold) and ought to have their oil & filter changed every 5K
miles (simple job). I've driven one of these 617.xx motors for 27 years
and can tell you that it's a very reliable motor.

These engines, like all engines, have a finite life and that lifespan
depends very much on how well the prior owner(s) maintained the motor.
An over maintained engine is probably good for as much as 400K miles but
a poorly maintained one is probably shot at 200K miles. So don't
hesitate to pay for quality and by all means avoid neglected cars; they
are no bargain.

Finally, there are some good information sources on the web, including
the people here, so we can help you when you find a candidate and have
specific questions.

Signature

© 2007 T.G.Lambach. Publication in any form requires prior written
permission.

Karl - 27 May 2007 02:57 GMT
You forgot the 4th body :)
The 300TDT.  Turbodiesel wagon.

> The absolute simplest one is the 240D 4 speed manual - if one can be
> found. These were sold until '82 or '83.
[quoted text clipped - 20 lines]
> the people here, so we can help you when you find a candidate and have
> specific questions.
-->> T.G. Lambach <<-- - 27 May 2007 21:23 GMT
Of course, you're right Karl. The 300TD wagon has 4 doors too.

It also has a complicated (hydro pneumatic) rear suspension and an
engine driven hydraulic pump to support that suspension. Something to
avoid unless one needs a wagon, IMHO.
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© 2007 T.G.Lambach. Publication in any form requires prior written
permission.

jefftino - 27 May 2007 21:53 GMT
On May 27, 4:23 pm, "-->> T.G. Lambach <<--" <"T.G. Lambach at
NoHamorSpamcomcast.net"> wrote:
> Of course, you're right Karl. The 300TD wagon has 4 doors too.
>
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> © 2007 T.G.Lambach. Publication in any form requires prior written
> permission.

Are these suspension on all the 300 series or just the wagon?
The Spanish Inquisition - 27 May 2007 21:58 GMT
> On May 27, 4:23 pm, "-->> T.G. Lambach <<--" <"T.G. Lambach at
> NoHamorSpamcomcast.net"> wrote:
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
>
> Are these suspension on all the 300 series or just the wagon?

Standard on the wagons, rare option on the others....

Ximinez
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-->> T.G. Lambach <<-- - 28 May 2007 00:44 GMT
Only on the 300TD wagon - in the USA.

Also on the top of the S Class models; i.e. 560SEL sedan 560SEC coupe as
example(s).
Signature

© 2007 T.G.Lambach. Publication in any form requires prior written
permission.

heav - 28 May 2007 16:52 GMT
I bought my 1982 300 TDT in 1993 with 144,000 miles (231,000 k) on
it.  It ran pretty good, but had a little blow by.  Blow by is an
indication of how well an engine has been maintained.  It happens when
the valve guides or rings or both are worn.

You can easily check for excessive blow by.  With the motor not
running, loosen the oil filler cap on the valve cover.  Then, either
start the engine yourself or have someone else do it.  If the valve
cover opening starts to look like a wildcat gusher in the movie
"Giant" you know the engine has problems.

I have the wagon with the hydraulic load levelers in the back.  As
long as you change the fluid and filter in the system annually they
seem to last forever.   Shortly after I got my wagon I drove it
through the very rugged and remote Saline Valley in Death Valley
National Park.  Midway through on a day when it was 125 degrees F I
realized that all the fluid had leaked out of the system.  I should
have just filled it with motor oil, but, stupidly, I filled it with
brake fluid (I happened to have extra of both with me).  The seals and
gaskets in the system are not impervious to brake fluid, I learned to
my great regret (ruined $1200 worth of parts).  Then for a time,
before I figured out the seals problem, after I drained the system I
refilled it with the very thin hydraulic fluid Mercedes sells for $20
a liter.  The system takes 4 liters or so.  The fluid level kept going
down in the hydraulic system and the oil level in my engine kept going
up.  Eventually I figured out that the hydraulic fluid in the load
leveler was leaking past a seal in the pump into the engine oil.

So I was running my engine with very thin oil that was partly
hydraulic fluid.  So I started using engine oil in the hydraulic
system, figuring that at least that way I was just leaking engine oil
into the engine.  I ran that way for several years.  Eventually I
replaced the pump on the load leveler.  But I didn't go back to
running the Mercedes hydraulic fluid.  I run regular petroleum based
Automatic Transmission fluid and it works great.  I am not sure how it
would do in -25 weather, but here in the Eastern Sierra where 0 F is
about as cold as we get it works fine.  If it's that cold my old
engine would not start anyway.

But my main point is this; my engine, which was probably not terribly
well maintained for its first 231,000 kilometers and ran for several
thousand miles on thinned out oil in the hot desert, just finally went
to the remanufacturer, about 12 years after the first leaking into the
engine from the pump.

I got 396,500 miles (638,000 kilometers) out of it.  I will get more
out of the remanufactured engine if I live that long because I will
change the oil every 2000 miles (3200 K) from day one.  And this is
going to be like a brand new engine because I am having them sleeve
the block and put in standard pistons.

If you can find a wagon, go for it.  They are great and I can stretch
out in the back to sleep and I am 6' 2" tall.  I have the 7 passenger
model and with the hydraulic load leveler the car rides level and true
if you have one person and the same with 7 in the car.  But save some
money and use automatic transmission fluid in the load leveler!

On May 27, 4:44 pm, "-->> T.G. Lambach <<--" <"T.G. Lambach at
NoHamorSpamcomcast.net"> wrote:
> Only on the 300TD wagon - in the USA.
>
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> © 2007 T.G.Lambach. Publication in any form requires prior written
> permission.
jefftino - 29 May 2007 03:15 GMT
So excessive blow by is a good thing to check for.  I see a few MBs
running around with a lot of smoke under acceleration.  Is there any
other things to look for with the 240/300 Ds?
Red Fox - 29 May 2007 04:25 GMT
I had to have an 84 240D tested in Europe last year and the requirements for
the exhaust were very stringent. They revved and revved mine and it kept
blowing out black stuff. Eventually, when all the soot was out of the
exhaust system, the exhaust was clean enough to pass that test. I'm glad
they knew how to handle the situation. I would not have thought of it.

RF

> So excessive blow by is a good thing to check for.  I see a few MBs
> running around with a lot of smoke under acceleration.  Is there any
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> avast! - copyright (c) 1988-2007 ALWIL Software.
> http://www.avast.com
Gogarty - 29 May 2007 20:34 GMT
(Snip)

. So don't
>hesitate to pay for quality and by all means avoid neglected cars; they
>are no bargain.

Amen! Amen! Amen!
Richard Sexton - 29 May 2007 09:37 GMT
>I would like to know your two cents worth as to the best year/version
>diesel Mercedes under $5,000.  4 doors and easiest to work on at
>home.  Thanks!

The non-turbo 115 chassis 300D. Very few left that haven't rusted out
though. But you really can't go wrong with any 123 or 126 chassis 5
cylinder diesel.

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Dano - 29 May 2007 15:43 GMT
I had a '79 300D, an 85' 190D and a '95 E300D.  The '95 was by far the
most reliable and easiest to work on.  I would get the newest model
you can buy and don't worry too much about the miles.  I ran all three
of mine well over 200M.
JD - 29 May 2007 16:29 GMT
> I would like to know your two cents worth as to the best year/version
> diesel Mercedes under $5,000.  4 doors and easiest to work on at
> home.  Thanks!
>
> Jeff

I've usually had very good luck buying cars on Ebay but my most recent,
a '92 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel, has been a disappointment. $4900 got me a
car advertised as being in "excellent mechanical condition" that needs a
a new drive shaft assembly and it's injector pump needs to be
overhauled. The clear coat is badly crazed as well which didn't show on
the pictures. Kelly Blue Book puts this car as worth around $5200 in
"excellent" condition which were it the case with mine I'd have been
perfectly happy.
 
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