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Car Forum / Mercedes-Benz Cars / August 2007300E Runs until warm then STOPS
I am wondering if anybody has any experience with a 300E Running good until it warms up --- then it shut down. DIES. It won't start until it cools down. Have replaced the water pump, the idle control valve, the plugs, the plug wires, the distributor cap, almost everything. Any help would be highly thanked. If it simply stops running as if the ignition key were turned to OFF then I'd suspect and electrical heat caused failure. No spark. First thought in that direction is a bad ignition coil. But if the motor sputters to a stop with gasps and surges, a fuel starvation problem is most likely the cause. However, fuel starvation is usually not heat related but usually tied to engine load - like climbing a hill etc.  Signature© 2007 T.G.Lambach. Publication in any form requires prior written permission. I recall someone mention a switch by the throttle cable going bad... could someone please elaborate? It is not the Gas cap, It's not the fuel pump. I took the gas cap off, And the fuel pump has been replaced. It starts just fine, gets warm - not hot - then falls all over itself when you give it gas, then shuts down. Just tried it again without the gas cap on and it will last about 10 minutes, then dies, won't restart. I have tried all I know to get it going but, I obviously don't know much, cause it still dies. >I recall someone mention a switch by the throttle cable going bad... could >someone please elaborate? > It is not the Gas cap, It's not the fuel pump. I took the gas cap off, And > the fuel pump has been replaced. It starts just fine, gets warm - not hot - > then falls all over itself when you give it gas, then shuts down. Just tried > it again without the gas cap on and it will last about 10 minutes, then > dies, won't restart. I have tried all I know to get it going but, I > obviously don't know much, cause it still dies. Could be an o-ring gasket problem in the main fuel pressure regulator. As long as the motor is cold below working temperature the warming up fuel regulator opens an electric heated pressure/temperature dependent bypass with full pump pressure. The bypass will close after 10 min and may let the fuel distributor without pressure. The pressure regulator unit regulates the pressure by opening partially the back flow line to the tank. Its a cheap little thing like the interior of a ballpoint pen. SignatureRoland Franzius T.G. It shuts down like It got shot, I mean it does not die it groans and acts like its getting to much fuel when you step on the gas, it, oh how do you say it, sounds like a dying bull, it sort of like back fires thru and just sounds awful. When you let off the gas it goes back to idle, but when warm, it varies idle speed. It got hot and shut down, that's why it has a new water pump, it went bad, ever since then I've had the problem with shutting down....any ideas besides what you've already written.... > If it simply stops running as if the ignition key were turned to OFF then > I'd suspect and electrical heat caused failure. No spark. First thought in [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > usually not heat related but usually tied to engine load - like climbing a > hill etc. i had this with a car a long while ago and it was the fuel filler cap not allowing air into the tank and causing a vaccume try opening the filler cap when it cuts out and if you hear air rushing in it may be this >I am wondering if anybody has any experience with a 300E Running good until >it warms up --- then it shut down. DIES. It won't start until it cools >down. Have replaced the water pump, the idle control valve, the plugs, the >plug wires, the distributor cap, almost everything. Any help would be >highly thanked. Just a little bit of a dilemma. I live in Long Beach, Calif. Anybody know of a good mercedes mechanic around here. I have the 300E with the problem, a 500 SEC no known problems, a 300 CE just idles high when you start it, again thanks to everybody for their help.... >I am wondering if anybody has any experience with a 300E Running good until >it warms up --- then it shut down. DIES. It won't start until it cools >down. Have replaced the water pump, the idle control valve, the plugs, the >plug wires, the distributor cap, almost everything. Any help would be >highly thanked. I had a 1979 Cad Seville.. with the same problem.. had to replaced the computer... >I am wondering if anybody has any experience with a 300E Running good until >it warms up --- then it shut down. DIES. It won't start until it cools >down. Have replaced the water pump, the idle control valve, the plugs, the >plug wires, the distributor cap, almost everything. Any help would be >highly thanked. On Jul 7, 5:50 am, "AndThenSome" <bargil...@remove101hotmail.com> wrote: > I had a 1979 Cad Seville.. with the same problem.. had to replaced the > computer... [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > >plug wires, the distributor cap, almost everything. Any help would be > >highly thanked. Maybe the fuel system is not delivering fuel enough - 4.5./5.5 bar - when warm. Try to fix it replacing the fuel pressure acumulator. My 300E has the same problem to restart when warm, my guess is this part is faulty. HTH, Renato Thank you all, I woill try lolking at the fuel system. Again THANK YOU ALL > On Jul 7, 5:50 am, "AndThenSome" <bargil...@remove101hotmail.com> > wrote: [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > > Renato > On Jul 7, 5:50 am, "AndThenSome" <bargil...@remove101hotmail.com> > wrote: [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > > Renato My 89 300E has a similar problem although it manifests itself when sitting over two weeks. I have ordered a fuel filter and will take any other advise. Coil wire looked frayed as well, new wires coming. Is there a 'warm transmitter' that may be shot. I know there is a cold start transmitter. Oddly, I filled the radiator overflow and the problem went away. (it was low)? I had this exact problem. I described it to my daughter who works in sales at MB. She took it to the guys in the shop and they diagnosed it immediately. It is the top-dead-center sensor (alternately crankshaft position sensor) that senses the position of the crankshaft and sends positional information to the computer to tell it when to spark. The problem started occasionally, and got worse over time, especially as the summer came. Evenutally, it was happening every seven or eight minutes. It can be replaced very easily. If the engine is lying front-to-back in your car, it is near the back of the block on the drivers side (left hand drive car) You need one screwdriver or hex wrench, can't remember which. A single screw removed lets you retract it. Be careful, the new one didn't come with a screw and the part is quite deep down. Don't drop the screw. Once in place, everything worked perfectly right away and never failed again. It comes with a rudimentary diagram showing the location. The part cost me about $65 due to my daughetr working there. I would guess about $125 at retail prices. > > On Jul 7, 5:50 am, "AndThenSome" <bargil...@remove101hotmail.com> > > wrote: [quoted text clipped - 26 lines] > cold start transmitter. Oddly, I filled the radiator overflow and > the problem went away. (it was low)? Further to this one: The unit fails to give a signal when hot, thermal runaway or similar effect. When the heat from the block reaches the unit and it hits the fail temperature, you're dead. When it cools down again, it start first time. On a mild day, this can take up to 35 - 40 minutes. In Winter I guess it would be faster, especially on the East Coast. If yours does this, this is the problem, 99% sure. > I had this exact problem. I described it to my daughter who works in sales > at MB. She took it to the guys in the shop and they diagnosed it [quoted text clipped - 50 lines] > > cold start transmitter. Oddly, I filled the radiator overflow and > > the problem went away. (it was low)? |
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