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Car Forum / Mercedes-Benz Cars / July 2007ML320 woes, help pls
98ML320- died, so I had it towed to dealer.... What brought it there, belt tensioner went, destroyed belt, that needs to get done... While there, dealer sugge$ted: Brakes/front rotors: Brakes are getting done (not by dealer).. MB recomends new rotors, why? Mechanic didn't... advice? At the same time, rear differential leak as well as coolant pump leak.... I need some advice/insight here as to what you think assuming I'd like to order the parts and have it done by another mechanic.... Example, brakes are getting done, where to get inexpensive rotors... I believe MB wants them replaced every other brake job.... Also, fixing the leaks... Dealer came up with a price of over 4 grand to fix all... that's, well, nuts....  SignatureB'rgds, Vinnie I've also been told that I needed to replace the rotors but I've never replaced the rotors in either of my ML320s. Replacing the pads seems adequate. I've had the pads replaced by a non-Mercedes shop and all went well. I've also done it myself as it's not a hard job. Excellent instructions can be found right here in this newsgroup. The biggest problem (here in the northeast where salt is used on the roads) is to get the wheel off. I can't imaging trying to change a tire in an emergency as the wheels are always rusted on very solidly. I'd be interested in knowing if anyone has treated the wheel flange interface in the center of the wheel with Corroisin-X or a similar product several times a year to inhibit this rust formation. Boden > 98ML320- died, so I had it towed to dealer.... > [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > Dealer came up with a price of over 4 grand to fix all... that's, well, > nuts.... A little bit of grease or anti sieze at the hub (where that circle flange thing wheel sits on is all you need. Do not put grease or antixieze on the hub where wheels bolts onto... that must be dry because the friction between the disc and the wheel is what makes the tight. I change rotor every 100,000 miles. The fact is rotors wears out and get thinner,,, which will lead rotor warp. Even if your rotor is not warped, you can see that flange on the outer circle where brake pad doesn't contact. That's how much wear there is... and that little bit is alot in terms of brake rotor thickness. By changing out the rotors, you will bring the braking perfromance back to 100%. Rotors are cheap enough to replace at 100,000 miles. Dealer change them out because it is cheaper for them laborwise... a customer come back with complaint about squealing, brake vibration or warping will cost them money to diagnose and then it will upset the customer that they have to do the job twice along with $$$. So by eliminating that, they save money and time for other customers' cars. Water pump gonna have to be replaced... leaking pump is sign of bad pump. Differential seal depends on where it is leaking can be a bigger job. > 98ML320- died, so I had it towed to dealer.... > > What brought it there, belt tensioner went, destroyed belt, that needs to > get done... New belt as low as $36.21 http://replacement.autopartswarehouse.com/parts/autopartswarehouse/wizard.jsp?ye ar=1998&make=MB&model=ML-320-001&category=All&part=Multi%20Rib%20Belt&dp=true Tensioners: http://replacement.autopartswarehouse.com/parts/autopartswarehouse/wizard.jsp?ye ar=1998&make=MB&model=ML-320-001&part=Accessory%20Belt%20Tensioner&dp=true > While there, dealer sugge$ted: > > Brakes/front rotors: Brakes are getting done (not by dealer).. MB > recomends new rotors, why? Mechanic didn't... advice? > > At the same time, rear differential leak as well as coolant pump leak.... New water pump as low as $127.95 http://replacement.autopartswarehouse.com/parts/autopartswarehouse/wizard.jsp?ye ar=1998&make=MB&model=ML-320-001&category=All&part=Water%20Pump&dp=true > I need some advice/insight here as to what you think assuming I'd like to > order the parts and have it done by another mechanic.... > > Example, brakes are getting done, where to get inexpensive rotors... I > believe MB wants them replaced every other brake job.... Aftermarket rotors as low as $39.25 http://replacement.autopartswarehouse.com/parts/autopartswarehouse/quote.jsp?yea r=1998&product=N1000-66525&application=000358240&part=Brake%20Disc&dp=true > Also, fixing the leaks... > > Dealer came up with a price of over 4 grand to fix all... that's, well, > nuts.... Thank you for the info... thank you very much... I'm sick.. in all my years, this is the worst screwing I've ever gotten.... >> 98ML320- died, so I had it towed to dealer.... >> [quoted text clipped - 36 lines] >> >> Vinnie SignatureB'rgds, Vinnie Rotors are not expensive parts - one brand vs. another - so why buy cheap rotors and have them warp? Then you start all over again. Your mechanic can buy MB rotors if the existing rotors are worn past the limit which, other than heavy scoring (or warp), should be the replacement criteria. Leaks smeeks. Dealers want every car to be in the condition of a new car, one should judge leaks by how much replacement fluid is needed and fix the leak when replacement top-ups become a bother rather than for cosmetic reasons. Independent shops are not nearly as critical about cosmetics. Signature© 2007 T.G.Lambach. Publication in any form requires prior written permission. |
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