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Car Forum / Mercedes-Benz Cars / August 2007Glow Plug Removal Problem - Advice Requested!
Hi folks, I finally decided to renew the glow plugs on my '84 300SD and things went smoothly until I came to the #1 plug. It wouldn't budge and I wound up rounding off the darn thing. My glow plug light was working intermittently, but hasn't lit up in some time. Where should I go from here? Leave it and run on 4 new plugs? File down the edges of the plug and hope to remove it? By the way, I had also updated to the newer relay. Any assistance greatly appreciated! Thanks, Tim Tim Delaney Stewiacke, NS, Canada 1984 300SD 225,000 km http://ShillingtonKennels.ca/mercedes 84 engine has alot of clearance to get to the glow plug... unlike my 95... Did you use the right metric deep socket to remove them? You can try getting sockets that grabs by the center of the hex head rather than the edge like most... Try stopping by Sears for something like that to remove the glow plug... Unless you live by a harbor freight... they got a impact socket set that will take out any bolt. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=1038 However, the above set is not a deep socket... but you might be able to get by. If you do have access problem, then you might have problem with this set too. Hi Tiger, Thanks for the speedy reply. I tried a 12mm deep, but it wouldn't grab. Then I went to the spanner, which slipped and finally the vice grips. Now I've got a bit of a mess. I've posted a picture of it on my website ( http://shillingtonkennels.ca/mercedes ). We don't have Harbor Freight, but we have an outfit called Princess Auto. I'll check it out. Maybe there's enough bolt left so I can get a better socket on it. Thanks for the inspriation Tiger! Tim > 84 engine has alot of clearance to get to the glow plug... unlike my 95... > Did you use the right metric deep socket to remove them? [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > by. If you do have access problem, then you might have problem with this set > too. I see it... Darn it! That HarborFreight tool i said can get that out with no problem. At this point I am more incline to try the tool I showed you. Sears does make something similar so go there instead. Stud remover tool is also another tool contraption you can try too. http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?vertical=TOOL&cat=Mechanics+Tools&subc at=Sockets&pid=00947078000&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes Your '84 300SD is certainly in beautiful condition - like new! Fortunately this old cast iron cylinderhead is tough as can be. Why not squirt some penetrating oil onto the reluctant threads, wait a week and then give it hell! Tiger's Sears socket is certainly an idea. The GP's center can always be drilled out and an EasyOut used to remove it but that's the last gasp before pulling the head. Whatever you do, your car is well worth the effort.  Signature© 2007 T.G.Lambach. Publication in any form requires prior written permission. >File >down the edges of the plug and hope to remove it? Yes. Don't be afraid to remove the steel fuel delivery rails togeain better access. It's stupid easy to do and save you lots of tie and heartache. They just unscrew and screw back on as a unit. Without problems such as yours you save about half an hour and it costs you less than 5 minutes. http://articles.mbz.org/engine/diesel/plugs/ SignatureNeed Mercedes parts? http://parts.mbz.org Richard Sexton | Mercedes stuff: http://mbz.org 1970 280SE, 72 280SE | Home pages: http://rs79.vrx.net 633CSi 250SE/C 300SD | http://aquaria.net http://killi.net Thanks for the adivce, folks! I really appreciate it. I got a "Gator Grip" at Canadian Tire. Unfortunately, it isn't as deep as it looks and wouldn't snag the head of the glow plug (I'll tuck it in the tool box for another opportunity!) I wound up getting another set of sockets (six point instead of the 12's I already had. It seems to be grabbing better. I'm taking TG's advice and hitting it with WD-40 and giving it some time to penetrate. I'm sure it'll come around :-) Richard: Thanks for the tip! I did remove the fuel rail and like you said, it's a no-brainer. Tom: Thank you for your kind words. The picture makes the car look better than it is (I'd call it good restorable condition), but it's certainly respectable. I'll follow this up with a quick note once I've successfully completed the job! Thanks again, Tim Lop that electrical stub off so you can get the socket in deeper... Don't know if that helps with the Gator Grip. Sometime you can get by with american size... one size smaller and hit it in for solid grab. > Lop that electrical stub off so you can get the socket in deeper... Don't > know if that helps with the Gator Grip. > > Sometime you can get by with american size... one size smaller and hit it in > for solid grab. Another excellent suggestion! Thanks, Tim WD-40 is not worth a damn as a penetrant. Get a REAL penetrating spray like Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster, Worth Rost-Off etc. > Thanks for the adivce, folks! I really appreciate it. > [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] > > Tim And after the devil is out, I suggest twirling a 1/4 inch (for metal) drill in the cavity - just use your fingers to twirl it - to cut the carbon deposits that are no doubt there. Simple and very easy to do. Then the new GP will screw right in. Signature© 2007 T.G.Lambach. Publication in any form requires prior written permission. On Aug 1, 8:43 pm, "-->> T.G. Lambach <<--" <"T.G. Lambach at NoHamorSpamcomcast.net"> wrote: > And after the devil is out, I suggest twirling a 1/4 inch (for metal) > drill in the cavity - just use your fingers to twirl it - to cut the [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > ? 2007 T.G.Lambach. Publication in any form requires prior written > permission. Thanks Karl and Tom! Will do (both). Tim |
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