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Car Forum / Mercedes-Benz Cars / August 2007unidentified part up under pedals
Hello, Found a relay/solenoid up under the pedal assembly of my 1976 300d with automatic transmission. Not sure what it is or does. It has a somewhat "S" shaped stamped sheet metal switch attached to it. Was just hanging above the brake pedal and steering column by a wiring harness. Would appreciate to identify where it goes and what it does. Can send foto if needed. Thanks! Biodiesel Bob Get the part number off it and punch it into an online part store to get the name of that device. > Get the part number off it and punch it into an online part store to get the > name of that device. Good idea, but no numbers on this, the only marking is part of the bakelite casing and it is an 'M' and a 'K' joined together side by side. Very small paper tag is mostly unreadable (looks like date, maybe), but does start with ' 2 - ' . It has 6 contact pins and one bakelit alignment pin (removed it from wiring harness). All assists would be appreciated. Thanks! This looks like after-market part. Almost all MB parts that are big enough would have the parts number, like 123-450-xxxx. And MB does not allow any relay hanging there. Can this be related to alarm, remote starter, or radio/amplifier? >>Get the part number off it and punch it into an online part store to get the >>name of that device. [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > All assists would be appreciated. Thanks! > This looks like after-market part. Almost all MB parts that are big > enough would have the parts number, like 123-450-xxxx. And MB does not > allow any relay hanging there. > > Can this be related to alarm, remote starter, or radio/amplifier? Thanks for the try, I do appreciate your time spent on this. Actually looks like a MB part and has MB wire harness still connected to it. It for shur is a switch of some kind. Stamped sheet metal part on top does move the internals when pressed upon. Have tried actuating it when car is parked and running, but does not seem to control anything. Cannot actuate it when driving for very obvious reasons of safety. Since I am at least 4th owner (or more), most likely it has been moved from where it should be. These did not have alarms or remote starters and doubt very much if it is connected in any way to radio (which is still original Becker that works). There are 2 hollow rivets that hold the device together and act like they could be pushed out of the bakelite casing very easily as only one end of the rivets are peened over. The unknown switch is about as big as a third of a pack of cigarettes (cutting across the pack). Oh well, maybe one day . . . >>This looks like after-market part. Almost all MB parts that are big >>enough would have the parts number, like 123-450-xxxx. And MB does not [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > pack of cigarettes (cutting across the pack). Oh well, maybe one > day . . . Is your brake light switch working? That is the one switch in that area to my knowledge.  SignatureRoland Franzius > >>This looks like after-market part. Almost all MB parts that are big > >>enough would have the parts number, like 123-450-xxxx. And MB does not [quoted text clipped - 26 lines] > > - Show quoted text - I thought of the brake light switch too, as it's the only switch I know of in that area too. However I don't think the brake light switch is part of a relay module on any of these cars. But I do think the switch may be key to figuring out what it is. Exactly what type of switch is it, ie momentary contact by pushing? And if so, is there any evidence anything has been pushing against the switch? One remote possibility, there is the seat belt warning buzzer up under there. Any chance this was some aftermarket or rigged up one that could be turned off? Get a pair of wire snips. Snip the wires holding it in place. Now check to see what does not work. Then buy a soldering iron and some solder. Once you have determined what does not work, solder the thingy back in place. Ummm ... best to get the soldering iron before you snip it out, unless you have a second or third or fourth car or a bike or some way to get to the soldergun store. An alternative procedure may simply involve loosening some screws that hold the wires to the thingy, but only if the screws are there. Also it is suggested that you not hook the wires up to anything, esp each other, while they are disconnected from the thingy. That could cause an explosion in the gas tank since this may be a resistor in the gas tank guage circuit. If you hear a hiss as you cut the thingy out of the circuit, you are screwed because you have just cut the vacuum lines to the electronic circuits of the car - a device removed from later versions because it could not be proven to work or not. It was supposed to generate additional boost power for the vacuum by sucking electrons out of the vacuum and supplying them to the car. It was invented by one of the famous Bush family scientists who were not very good at spelling either. Good luck. mcbrue helpingly under the bridge in the trailer down by the river 2006 kudzu burner > Get a pair of wire snips. Snip the wires holding it in place. Now > check to see what does not work. Then buy a soldering iron and some [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] > > 2006 kudzu burner Let me guess, the same ones who worked on the flux capacitor?? LOL On Aug 15, 8:27 am, "trad...@optonline.net" <trad...@optonline.net> wrote: > I thought of the brake light switch too, as it's the only switch I > know of in that area too. However I don't think the brake light [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > there. Any chance this was some aftermarket or rigged up one that > could be turned off?- You are somewhat correct, as long as pressure is applied to stamped sheet metal switch, it maintains contact. Examined the switch and surrounding area, no evidence that anything has been pushed against the switch in a very long time. It was just hanging above the brake pedal assembly and steering column by MB wiring harness. > You are somewhat correct, as long as pressure is applied to stamped > sheet metal switch, it maintains contact. I don't know what things under there look like, but could it be a mis-placed kickdown switch, you know, to get the transmission to downshift? -tom! -- > > You are somewhat correct, as long as pressure is applied to stamped > > sheet metal switch, it maintains contact. [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > -- That makes sense! Now I can research a little bit more, Thanks!! > > > You are somewhat correct, as long as pressure is applied to stamped > > > sheet metal switch, it maintains contact. [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > That makes sense! Now I can research a little bit more, Thanks!! Kickdown switches don't have a wiring harness with 5 pins. On Aug 17, 11:29 am, "trad...@optonline.net" <trad...@optonline.net> wrote: > > > > You are somewhat correct, as long as pressure is applied to stamped > > > > sheet metal switch, it maintains contact. [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > > Kickdown switches don't have a wiring harness with 5 pins. This has 6 pins plus index pin. > I don't know what things under there look like, but could it be a > mis-placed kickdown switch, you know, to get the transmission to [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > -- I'm pretty sure that the kickdown switch is that black box on top of the head in the engine compartment. It's influenced by vacuum, throttle position, lunar phases, and magic... At least that's how it appears on my 84 300D. > Is your brake light switch working? That is the one switch in that area > to my knowledge. Hey, good thought, but it is for shur NOT the brake light switch. Was the first thing I checked. |
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