Change out all the shocks to new Bilsteins.
Richard Sexton - 26 Oct 2007 20:48 GMT
Agreed. Use ONLY Bilsteins. They're not cheap but have a lifetime
warrenty. Nothing else seem to work properly or last.
Your original shocks did pretty well to last 25 years jah?

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Thanks - that's what I was thinking, but I wanted to see if the
self-leveling suspension might be the culprit - it happened pretty
quickly.
So the next question is comfort, heavy duty, etc. I don't spend a lot of
time on the highway, and our roads are pretty good.
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heav - 26 Oct 2007 16:34 GMT
I have a 1982 300 TDT with the load leveling rear suspension.
Your accumulators have most likely failed. The rear suspension on
these vehicles does not have shock absorbers like many cars. You have
struts that are regulated by hydraulic fluid that is pumped through
the system to keep the vehicle level regardless of load. These struts
do not have an air chamber that allows them to absorb shock. The air
chamber to absorb shock is found in a different component of the
system known as the "accumulator." There is one on each side. They
are black metal spheres. There is a rubber diaphragm inside that
divides the inside of the sphere in to two chambers. The innermost
chamber is filled with a gas, probably nitrogen. The outer chamber is
a part of the hydraulic circuit and is filled with hydraulic fluid.
When you hit a bump, the rubber diaphragm inside the chamber expands
under the increased pressure caused by the axle pushing up suddenly on
the strut and absorbs the shock. Eventually those rubber diaphragms
break and the entire sphere fills with hydraulic fluid. Since liquids
retain their volume, the sphere can no longer absorb shock.
You will notice a small deterioration in your vehicle's ride when one
accumulator fails. When the second one goes, your car will start
acting like a kangaroo like you describe.
Here is the BenzBin listing for an accumulator
http://mercedes.thebenzbin.com/?year=1982&make=MB&imageField22222.x=14&imageFiel
d22222.y=11
And this guy has them on eBay for about $83 each in pairs.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MERCEDES-126-MORE-NEW-Rear-Shock-Accumulator-Set_
W0QQitemZ110182887940QQihZ001QQcategoryZ42609QQcmdZViewItem
They are not difficult to change out. You don't need to remove
anything but the accumulators themselves. It is kind of a messy job
because hydraulic fluid tends to ooze or squirt out no matter what you
do when you remove them.
Paul
> Thanks - that's what I was thinking, but I wanted to see if the
> self-leveling suspension might be the culprit - it happened pretty
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
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Richard Sexton - 26 Oct 2007 20:50 GMT
>I have a 1982 300 TDT with the load leveling rear suspension.
>
>Your accumulators have most likely failed. The rear suspension on
>these vehicles does not have shock absorbers like many cars. You have
>struts that are regulated by hydraulic fluid that is pumped through
I've only lusted after, but nevr owned a wagon. Isn't there soem test
so you can figure out if it's the rears? Isnt't the back end supposed to maintain
a constant ride height no matter how much the car is loaded or something?

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Richard Sexton | Mercedes stuff: http://mbz.org
1970 280SE, 72 280SE | Home pages: http://rs79.vrx.net
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Karl - 26 Oct 2007 23:37 GMT
Just push down on the back end. If it does not move, the spheres are blown.
When they blow, the back end is rock solid.
> >I have a 1982 300 TDT with the load leveling rear suspension.
> >
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> so you can figure out if it's the rears? Isnt't the back end supposed to maintain
> a constant ride height no matter how much the car is loaded or something?
heav - 26 Oct 2007 16:49 GMT
By the way, don't drive the car any more than you have to with the
accumulators gone. If you do, it puts extreme pressure on the system
every time you hit a bump because there is no air chamber space to
absorb the shock. That can blow the seals on the struts, and then you
have to replace the struts. They are $368 each.
Paul
> Thanks - that's what I was thinking, but I wanted to see if the
> self-leveling suspension might be the culprit - it happened pretty
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
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tweaks - 26 Oct 2007 19:52 GMT
Thanks...
I noticed a loss of hydraulic fluid when I was doing a routine check, so I
filled it up. This is what I was worried about because of the dramatic
change in the ride.
Is there a means of verifying this is the problem that comes to mind? I'm
perfectly able to do the work, but hate to expend the resources for them if
it's really not the problem...
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Karl - 26 Oct 2007 23:38 GMT
Push down on the rear end. If it rock solid, replace the spheres NOW.
> Thanks...
>
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
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tweaks - 27 Oct 2007 02:21 GMT
Thanks
Actually, it's still "somewhat" bouncy. The rear end "raises up" when I
put the car in reverse (which I queried the group about before and was
assured was OK). Sort of settles initially when putting into a forward
gear. There doesn't seem to be any difference with the car running or
not. That doesn't sound promising.
I think I'll crawl under there tomorrow and see what I can see.
What I'm reading here is:
1. Put it on stands
2. Inspect for oil around the shocks (I've done before, but will do
again)
3. Turn on the engine.
4. Check to see if the lever on the valve makes things happen.
5. Remove a line and see if it looks as if sufficient hydraulic fluid is
being circulated.
6. Possibly, take the accumulators off and inspect to see if the
diaphragm or membrane is still intact and resilient.
Does that sound about right?
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Karl - 27 Oct 2007 02:44 GMT
The spheres are sealed balls..... you will not see anything.
With the car off. Push down on the front. Car goes down and comes up, right?
Push down on the back. Should be as easy as the front. Is it hard as a
rock??
> Thanks
>
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runbiodiesel - 27 Oct 2007 09:38 GMT
> The spheres are sealed balls..... you will not see anything.
>
[quoted text clipped - 36 lines]
>
> - Show quoted text -
It's the accumulators. Almost definitely. Shocks don't go out the fast
but the accumulators do. And the result is what you describe. I have a
1982 300TDT too. Replace them and you will ride like new.
tweaks - 27 Oct 2007 16:03 GMT
Thanks
Definitely not as easy as the front. A small amount of give, so I'm
thinking the accumulators have gone.
I read something about the "wrong" kind of hydraulic fluid? Is it a MBZ
specific fluid that I should use to replace once the whole thing is done?
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tweaks - 27 Oct 2007 18:31 GMT
I just spent an hour underneath - I don't really "feel" much difference
than has always been there. The front moves more than the rear, but the
rear is still "spongy" - not rock hard.
There is no evidence of oil or leakage anywhere along the rear struts, nor
anywhere else in the rear leveling system assembly. Didn't see any
movement in the sway bar, though.
In the engine compartment, the hydraulic fluid comes out slowly but
steadily from the filter into the reservoir. I didn't think that it would
come out with much force, so that seems OK.
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news - 27 Oct 2007 00:26 GMT
> Thanks...
>
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> perfectly able to do the work, but hate to expend the resources for them if
> it's really not the problem...
hi
just did the rear suspension on my 230te, nothing much to it, bit fiddly and
a bit messy as mentioned but easy enough. Just try bouncing the rear end, if
the spheres are gone the will be no movement. If you lost the fluid its
probably inside the spheres where the gas was, hence hydraulic lock. BE VERY
CAREFUL WITH THE VALVE BODY - its ally, soft and expensive.
The spheres are actually inside the car under floor at the back, access
panel under the carpet
hth
cheers!
balge