1983 300 TD Transmission questions

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aaron - 06 Dec 2007 00:18 GMT

Hello all,

You might have seen my post when I first was looking at this car. It
has been great so far. I have been running it on a 50/50 blend of
biodiesel and dinodiesel. No problems with power or mileage. Idles
smooth and steady. I love it.

Anyway, I do have a question. When the car is cold and has not been
driven for a night or so, the transmission flares/slips from 2nd to
3rd gear. When the car is warmed up and I have been driving it, it no
longer occurs. Can anyone suggest what may be happening? Also, I have
done some research into the fluid levels and how to check them. If I
find that it is low, where do I add the fluid? I have been told that
you add it where the dipstick is. True? Lastly, what type of fluid
should I use to add? Can I use the Lucas brand tranny additive to top
it off?

Last question, I do not have a manual for the car so I have no idea
what the specs are. I would like to change the oil, know how much fuel
it holds, etc.. Do you all know where I might find one?

Thanks in advance. I know these are basic questions, but this is my
first Benz Diesel and I want to make sure it lasts.

aaron

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-->> T.G. Lambach <<-- - 06 Dec 2007 01:21 GMT

Engine and engine oil filter together take 7.5L of lube oil. SAE 10 - 40
DIESEL grade oil like Chevron Delo 400 or equivalent is fine - two one
gallon jugs. Do every 5K miles.

Suggest you have a M-B shop do a "transmission service" which changes
the transmission fluid and the transmission's fluid filter. It should
then be good for 15 K miles. I'd be silent about the flaring - you can
always go back and ask them to estimate a repair if fluid change doesn't
soon cure the flaring.

Check transmission level after some driving so box is hot, engine idling
in P. All fluid levels should be BETWEEN the dipstick's notches. Yes,
the transmission is filled through its dipstick tube - never overfill it.

try www.books4cars.com or http://www.tmcpubl.com//mercedes.html

Suggest you buy and carry a primary (spin-on can) and a secondary (small
plastic) fuel filter. Changing to Bio loosens old fuel deposits; they
lodge in the filters starving the motor of fuel - it first loses power
on hills and acceleration and eventually becomes undriveable. New
filters are then needed.

Happy driving.

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aaron - 06 Dec 2007 14:06 GMT

Thank you for the info. I will take the car to a MB shop and have a
tranny service. We'll see if that fixes it. I will also check the
fluids. Have you tried the Lucas brand products? I don't work for
them, I promise, but they have always worked for me. I don't want to
add something that in not MB safe.

As for the fuel filters, I did recently pick up a spare set of filters
for the car. They are sitting in my trunk. I did a great deal of
research prior to filling my tank. The 50/50 blend was what I intended
to do if I could not find it at the station. I would have just done a
mix on my own. However, because of the cold weather, the station,
which is really an unmanned tank with a credit card terminal, is
selling a 50/50 blend. I have noticed once a reduction in power and a
stall, both of which felt like a lack of fuel intake. Not too long
after the slowdown, there was a nice little bit smoke car out and the
car went about its business. No problems since. I really like the
BioDiesel. It costs the same as regular diesel and I get a little
"feel good" knowing I am running on a renewable resource. Especially
since I suck at doing anything else good for the world ;)

aaron

On Dec 5, 8:21 pm, "-->> T.G. Lambach <<--" <"T.G. Lambach at
NoHamorSpamcomcast.net"> wrote:

> Engine and engine oil filter together take 7.5L of lube oil. SAE 10 - 40
> DIESEL grade oil like Chevron Delo 400 or equivalent is fine - two one
[quoted text clipped - 22 lines]
> (c) 2007 T.G.Lambach. Publication in any form requires prior written
> permission.

Reply to this Message

aaron - 10 Dec 2007 20:43 GMT

Hello all,

I checked the transmission fluid level after drving the car for about
15 minutes. I was parked in a level spot when I pulled the stick. In
each check, it appeared that the level was way too high. I checked it
3 times, carefully cleaning the stick each time. There were markings,
as I am sure you all know, that show a high and low level. Mine was an
inch higher than both of those. Did I perform the check incorrectly?
Is there another way? Check it cold? Please let me know. I feel as
though a tranny service is necessary, but I want to exhaust all basic
options before I do that. Thank you!!!

aaron

PS. Would this explain why the car falres a bit when cold, but is rock
solid when warmed up?

> Hello all,
>
[quoted text clipped - 21 lines]
>
> aaron

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