leaking fuel from an injector; '85 300D

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Tom Plunket - 14 Jan 2008 01:01 GMT

So the other day when fiddling with the power steering pump, I noticed
some "wetness" on one of the PS lines, like oil had been spraying on it.
Looking around, I noticed that the #3 injector has a ring of oil around
it, in the joint between the nut and the injector body (i.e. not on the
block), and the head bolt that's right there is filled with fuel as
well. I don't see much indication of fuel spray, but I'd like to fix it
anyway and the CD manual doesn't give me a whole lot of information. Can
I just turn that nut with a suitably-large open-end wrench, or is it
really truly preferable to disconnect the fuel supply and pull the glow
plug to turn on this thing with a deep socket? I ask that because, is
there a way to drain the fuel out of the supply lines in some way other
than "disconnect and let it drip out all over everything"?

Finally, I've been thinking that maybe it'd be a good idea to look at
the injectors to see, well, how they look on my '79 TD. Is "current
working state" easily observable by eye? I've read here that a set of
remanufactured injectors is only about $50 after core, so maybe I should
just go ahead and swap them out? I'm curious though if I can glean
anything with a visual inspection (been running mostly waste vegetable
oil for about a year now in both cars).

thanks,
-tom!

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-->> T.G. Lambach <<-- - 14 Jan 2008 04:54 GMT

Appears the #3 high pressure line is leaking at its compression fitting.
Put a wrench onto the "nut" at the end of the high pressure line where
it is attached to the nozzle and snug it tight. "Snug" means just that -
only tight enough so it doesn't leak. Too tight will crush the
compression fitting and the line will need to be replaced. So go slow
and tighten it a couple of times if necessary - we're talking only about
10 or 15 ft lbs - a firm handshake.

The only visual inspection is on a test stand. The injectors are OK if
the motor runs smoothly at idle with no knocking when cold and doesn't
smoke too much when driving.

Nozzles are good for 100K miles, or more. Remanufacured nozzles are
about $50 EACH plus core! So if you still want to change them get a 1
1/16 inch deep socket, new bleed off hoses and have at it.

The nozzles come out just like spark plugs - tight and suddenly loose.
Keep the plastic cap on each new nozzle until you are ready to connect
the high pressure line to it. Also know that the old nozzles are full of
fuel and ought to be kept upright until you can drain them into a can.
Replace the thick washer below the nozzle (new ones are included) and
torque the new ones to about 50 ft lbs. This is a job to be done only
when there's a need, otherwise, leave it be.

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tweaks - 24 Jan 2008 03:43 GMT

I had a leak around one that was caused by one of the return lines that
travel from injector to injector. It also pooled around the injector, but
actually wicked up the line and on to the next one! A few dollars got me
replacements for that.

tweaks

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