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Car Forum / Mercedes-Benz Cars / March 2008

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Repair for stripped oil pan drain plug (190e)

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Martin Joseph - 10 Mar 2008 08:12 GMT
Hi Yall,

Just thought I would drop a note here to let you know that I finally
got around to fixing my stripped oil pan drain plug in my 1986 190e.

I am pretty sure this is the reason the guy sold the car to me, as he
was very retentive about his oil...

Anyhow I discovered this product call "Timesert" which is a sleeve that
fits into the whole the drain plug formerly occupied.

I bought a whole kit which included a drill. a reamer, a tap,  5
inserts and threading tool.

The whole process took me about 1 hour and this was my first time so I
didn't rush.  Works great!  Very excited about not needing to replace
the oil pan!

That is all.
Marty

PS Car still running great. 140,000 miles

PPS Any other people in the Seattle area that need a stripped oil pan
plug repaired,  I have 4 left over inserts  ;~)
weelliott@gmail.com - 11 Mar 2008 15:06 GMT
> Hi Yall,
>
[quoted text clipped - 21 lines]
> PPS Any other people in the Seattle area that need a stripped oil pan
> plug repaired,  I have 4 left over inserts  ;~)

What keeps the metal shavings from getting in the oil? Is there a good
method to get them out?

Bill
Martin Joseph - 19 Mar 2008 03:07 GMT
>> Hi Yall,
>>
[quoted text clipped - 26 lines]
>
> Bill

I used heavy grease on the drill and then I poured a quart of
disposable oil through when I was done (to flush any bits out).  The
shavings from the tapping are pretty tiny, and they are aluminum.  
Hopefully the filter does it's job if any get to the pickup.

So far so good...
Marty
John (Ireland) - 21 Mar 2008 21:25 GMT
back in the 1970's I ran a W115 220D/8 and my friend ran a W123 240D.
Both always dripped tiny quantities of oil from the sump nuts. I think
this is due to the fact that metric thread is relatively coarse, and
the frequent removal of the nut brought about by regular oil changes
introduces wear or play. We used to change the oil at 3000 miles for
long life - it worked. If ever we had the engine out, for example for
a clutch change, we would close up the original sump nut with weld,
and install a UNC or UNF fine-thread nut. That always cured the drip
problem, and I have done it since on many cars. The 'odd' nut in the
sump doesn't matter because it is not likely to get mixed up with
fasteners from anywhere else.

John
 
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