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Car Forum / Mercedes-Benz Cars / April 2008

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'85 300D - Glow plugs stopped glowing

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Tom Plunket - 13 Apr 2008 21:07 GMT
So the other day the glow plug light on the dash of the aforementioned
'85 123 stopped lighting.  The driver asked me to see about replacing
the lamp since the car had started the night before, the first time she
noticed it out, coming home from a restaurant (so the car had been up to
temperature before cooling down for an hour or so).  Perhaps
unsurprisingly, the car was very difficult to get started the next
morning, which pointed me to the thought that it's not the lamp that has
failed in this case...  :)

Anyhow, I've popped the cover off of the relay.  The fuse is (or appears
to be) good.  Putting a voltmeter between the fuse and the block (the
oil filter mount was in easy reach) showed me 12v with the key not in
the ignition (this ruled out needing to find C105, which I couldn't
easily locate in the guide).

So if the fuse is good and there's voltage there but the plugs don't
glow, is it basically a given that the relay needs to be replaced?
Another thought I had is that the temperature sensor might be stuck, but
the drawing in the wiring diagram makes it look like it's all part of
that same package, as a thermo-resistor deal of some sort.

thanks for the help,
-tom!

--
Tiger - 14 Apr 2008 02:08 GMT
Tom... first thing first, measure the resistance of each glow plugs. you
have to disconnect each glow plug so you can measure each one individually.

Otherwise, you will measure all glow plugs. When you measure each one... jot
down what you read... each one should put out about 0.5 ohm or less. if you
get some in like 20 or 2000, that is bad glow plug.

To test the relay, all you have to do is turn on the ignition, and then
measure the voltage at the glow plug. When the light stop working, it means
that one of your glow plug is bad.
Tom Plunket - 14 Apr 2008 03:17 GMT
> Tom... first thing first, measure the resistance of each glow plugs. you
> have to disconnect each glow plug so you can measure each one individually.

Ah ok, so is the connector on the glow plug just push/slip-on?  I'll go
take a peek and see what I see...

> Otherwise, you will measure all glow plugs. When you measure each one... jot
> down what you read... each one should put out about 0.5 ohm or less. if you
> get some in like 20 or 2000, that is bad glow plug.

Ok thanks.

> To test the relay, all you have to do is turn on the ignition, and then
> measure the voltage at the glow plug. When the light stop working, it means
> that one of your glow plug is bad.

Mm, good point.  Thanks.

Although, on the '85 the glow plugs are in parallel from the factory,
right?  There are five leads from the relay.  This contrasts against my
'79 which (as I understand it) is series-connected.  Another mod for
this summer...

-tom!

--
Tiger - 14 Apr 2008 14:41 GMT
If you got 5 leads, then each is individually powered by the relay.
Tom Plunket - 15 Apr 2008 17:03 GMT
> If you got 5 leads, then each is individually powered by the relay.

Right, I realized that I could just pull the plug on the relay to do the
resistance test, but have not sat down to do it yet.  Will get on it
shortly.  I have discovered that the relay does work, though; it clicks
pretty loud about 15 seconds after turning the key on.  After doing
three cycles on the relay, I turned the key to start and it started
right up.  So, it seems that some number of glow plugs are working
adequately.  I just didn't have the desire to actually disconnect each
of the glowplugs from their leads as it was getting dark and my hands
are bigger than that.  It's too bad I realized that testing from the
plug side would yield the same effect...  ;)

-tom!

--
weelliott@gmail.com - 16 Apr 2008 14:21 GMT
I don't want to hijack this thread, but I am having a similar problem.
My glowplug light will not always come on on my 84 300D.

Last October or so I was having no problems starting the car, but
under the advice of someone on some forum (can't remember who or which
one.) I changed out my glowplugs as a preventative measure. It's been
all down hill since then.  Immediately, the light wouldn't light when
I turned the key. If I turned it off and back on, about half the time
it would come on. It would pretty much always come on by the third or
fourth try. I'd let the plugs glow for two cycles(which sometimes
required a lot of turning the key back and forth.) then try to start.
It would work about a third of the time, but would always eventually
start.

I suspected that I didn't tighten a plug or lead enough. So I checked
them and found one plug that wasn't as far in. I took it out, ran a
1/4 inch drill bit in there to clean out any carbon, and reinstalled
it. After that the light came on with about the same regularity. Since
then though, it has become harder to get it to show the light.
Sometimes I turn the key back and forth ten or so times before I get a
light. The light always stays on for about 7 or 8 seconds when it does
come on. The car seems a little easier to start now that the weather
is getting warmer, but never fires up on the first try, even when the
weather is warm-like the 60s.

For a while I thought that maybe fuel starvation had something to do
with the hard starting, like a filter clogging up or something. But
when the car is warmed up and I shut it off to go in a store, it
starts up with no problem within a fraction of a second of turning the
key. I can see that fuel is in the filter, so it is getting fuel.

I also have big hands, and find it a real pain to get those wires on
and off and plugs in and out. It's about a three hour job. Does the
intermittent light indicate anything other than a possible loose wire?

I'm thinking that the only way I'm going to troubleshoot it is to take
each lead off and check the resistance of the plug and the voltage of
the lead. I'm just hoping that someone will chime in with some answer
that prevents that like, "this relay or inline fuse is likely blown-
check that. It's located here."

Have a good one,
Bill
Tiger - 16 Apr 2008 14:49 GMT
Bill... everything I said here is the right way to do so. I am suspecting
you probably have a bad relay unit. When you change out the glow plug, you
should change the relay unit. They also wear out too.

Another possible cause is fusible link for the glow plug too.

I got big hand too. Long handle needle nose plier helps alot. Get a set at
Costco.
Paul Hoffman - 15 Apr 2008 03:27 GMT
> Tom... first thing first, measure the resistance of each glow plugs. you
> have to disconnect each glow plug so you can measure each one
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
> measure the voltage at the glow plug. When the light stop working, it
> means that one of your glow plug is bad.

Tiger, is it not the case if only one plug goes out then the glow light will
flash once the car starts. It will then go out once the relay opens. If 2 or
more go out, then I believe the light will not come on.

Paul

Paul Hoffman
Burlington ON
phoffman@cogeco.ca or hoffmanp@mcmaster.ca

1980 300D  280,800 +  km
Tiger - 15 Apr 2008 04:09 GMT
I am not sure... but it really doesn't matter because something is wrong and
it is really easy to tell which glow plug is bad. You don't need that dummy
light to tell you that something is wrong.... just by starting up the car,
it will tell you if anything is wrong.

It really depends on the relay and year... On my 95, when my relay is bad,
the light does not come on... and if one of my glow plug is bad... after
starting the car, the light will stay on for a while before it goes away.
 
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