Well that's the short answer. The long one:
1. make sure the brake fluid reservoir is not full- when you push back the
pistons to change the pads, the fluid returns to the reservoir and will squirt
out. The fluid goes down gradually as the pads wear, so as long as no one has
added fluid, there should be room for the fluid to return safely.
2. Spin the front tires and listen for noise from the wheel bearings. A smooth
whirring noise is the sound of bad front wheel bearings.
3. Remove the wheels.
4. On ONE SIDE ONLY, knock out the brake pad retaining pins and remove the
anti-rattle plate. Using a large pair of water-pump pliers, squeeze the pad
toward the caliper (one jaw grabbing the pad by a retaining tab, the other
against the outside of the caliper on that pad's side). Squeeze steadily until
the pad moves away from the disc. Then insert a large screwdriver between pad
and disc, prying against the center of the pad with the tip of the screwdriver
(to keep the pressure on the piston even). When the piston is fully retracted,
lift out the pad.
5. With the pad out, clean out the corners of the caliper where the pad fits.
Brake dust and rust build up there. DO NOT blow out the dust. DO NOT breathe in
the debris.
6. Insert one new pad. It should slide in easily. If it does not. make sure the
piston is fully retracted and if needed, clean out the caliper recess again.
7. Repeat for the other pad, then install the retaining pins and anti-rattle
plate.
8. Do the opposite side of the car. Reinstall the wheels, and before driving
the car, pump the brake pedal NO MORE THAN HALFWAY a number of times to push
the pistons out until the pads are firmly against the discs. Check the fluid.
Road test the car, using the brakes gently at first.

That's it!

Bill Ditmire
Ditmire Motorworks,Inc.
425 White Horse Pike
Absecon,NJ 08201
http://www.ditmire.com
609-641-3392