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Car Forum / Mercedes-Benz Cars / September 2004Cruise Control Accelerates But Won't Hold Speed
At around 55 mph or above I can move my cruise lever to set/accelerate and it will immediately start to make the car accelerate. As soon as you let go of the lever, the acceleration immediately stops, but it won't hold the current speed. blanket resolder the amp and replace the crappy old dried out capacitiors with modern low esr, rock steady, pin point accuracy can then be expected. this is what my '79 6.9 was doing. > At around 55 mph or above I can move my cruise lever to set/accelerate and > it will immediately start to make the car accelerate. As soon as you let go > of the lever, the acceleration immediately stops, but it won't hold the > current speed. I was heading that direction... thanks. > blanket resolder the amp and replace the crappy old dried out capacitiors > with modern low esr, rock steady, pin point accuracy can then be expected. [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > of the lever, the acceleration immediately stops, but it won't hold the > > current speed. By the way, without me digging out the worthless Chiltons and Haynes manuals, where might I find the cruise amp? > I was heading that direction... thanks. > [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > > > of the lever, the acceleration immediately stops, but it won't hold the > > > current speed. > By the way, without me digging out the worthless Chiltons and Haynes > manuals, where might I find the cruise amp? I think that would depend on the car, which you didn't specify. In the 116 chassis, it's located under the drivers side dash, mounted with a bracket near the steering column. It's an aluminum rectangular housing, about 4X3X1 in dimension, with a single cable plug attached to it, as I recall. > > I was heading that direction... thanks. > > [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > the > > > > current speed. the reason I suggest a blanket resolder is because 90% of the time they die, its because of bad soldering, so you mayaswell do it, while its open. take your time, and do it properly, if you are daunted by how much work there is to do, don't do it all in one sitting, as you'll be really unhappy if it starts to not work at all. > I was heading that direction... thanks. > [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > > > of the lever, the acceleration immediately stops, but it won't hold the > > > current speed. The car is an '81 300TD Turbo. Don't mind the soldering. Well versed at it (fix numerous electronic devices). Thanks for the input so far! > the reason I suggest a blanket resolder is because 90% of the time they die, > its because of bad soldering, so you mayaswell do it, while its open. [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] > the > > > > current speed. Opened up the amp and nothing looks out of place. Nothing overheated. Was this the case with your's also? > the reason I suggest a blanket resolder is because 90% of the time they die, > its because of bad soldering, so you mayaswell do it, while its open. [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] > the > > > > current speed. |
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