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Car Forum / Mercedes-Benz Cars / February 2005

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300e ac evaporator core is toast

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mharness - 05 Nov 2004 12:26 GMT
Hello,

Just found out why the ac in my '89 300e won't hold a charge--mechanic says
the evaporator core has failed and he needs $1,600 bucks to install a new
one.  I've never installed one myself but it looks like I'm going to now
because I've got more time than I do money.

Several mechanics have told me that the whole dash has to come out to get it
out and I don't doubt it.  I'm not looking for a step by step by any means,
just any tips for avoiding the big "gotchas" and things like..

   how long should it take me (of average or better skill) to do the job
   if I need any special tools
   how I can check for leaks after it's installed but before I re-install
the dash
   if there are any other parts that I should also replace while the dash
is out
   and who's a good source for the core

Also, I can hear one of the flaps in the ac ducting making a thumping or
popping noise about every second or so (when the ac's on of course) and
there is little or no air coming out of the center vent.  Is that because
one of the actuator pots has failed or is it something else?  Can I tell if
the pot has failed by inspecting it visually or do I need to take a vacuum
on it to find out?

As for the cost of the part(s), thebenzbin wants $282 with the "valve",
$186 apparently without the valve, and ACKits wants $145 also without the
valve.  Is one of these going to be better quality than the other and should
I replace the valve also.

My last question has to do with the cost I was quoted by my mechanic.  Both
of the evaporator cores on thebenzbin have a suggested retail price of $960.
I know for a fact that my mechanic has charged me or quoted me the exact
same suggested retail prices shown on this website for several other high
dollar parts and I'm wondering if $700 or so of that $1,600 bill is a markup
for the difference between the two costs of the part?  I'm not grudging my
mechanic the ability to make a decent living but is it customary and does it
seem right to charge $70 per hour to do the work AND markup a $200 or $300
part 300 to 400 percent?

Thanks in advance for your guidance and comments.

Mike
Tiger - 05 Nov 2004 16:22 GMT
Yep, that $700 markup is true. But before you change out the evaporator on
your car... check for leak at the expansion valve... it is very easily
missed and declared that the evaporator is leaking.

Just follow the AC line going toward the interior of the car... they
probably already did the dye injection... it is kinda just below your wiper
location way deep inside... if you can flash some light in there... if you
see alot of light green colors, then you know it is leaking like crazy
there. If you get the UV lightpen, it will glow purple/green.
Terence Allan - 06 Nov 2004 12:11 GMT
> Hello,
>
[quoted text clipped - 40 lines]
>
> Mike

I've just had my air con on my 320e fixed. Symptoms were after gassing up
cold air ceased after about 1 week. To fix my MB trained specialist injected
some AC leak stop (similar to the aerosol stuff you put into tyres to fix
punctures) into the AC line and after regassing I've had no more problems
and the AC is freezing.  Try this fix first, it could save you a fortune.
Tiger - 06 Nov 2004 15:49 GMT
I would recommend this too... Check for major leak first.as I mentioned
before.
mharness - 06 Nov 2004 18:33 GMT
Thanks for that suggestion.  I'll look into it and I wonder why neither of
my mechanics have suggested this as a possible solution?!?!

Thanks,

Mike

>> Hello,
>>
[quoted text clipped - 61 lines]
> punctures) into the AC line and after regassing I've had no more problems
> and the AC is freezing.  Try this fix first, it could save you a fortune.
Peter W Peternouschek - 06 Nov 2004 20:39 GMT
There is no money in it for them.  Also most shops do not work on AC units
that have had sealer installed.
The problem is that some sealers use hydrocarbon as a propellant which is
considered a contaminant which fouls  their recycling equipment.
The following site has some good useful info.
www.cliplight.com/ssp.php

Peter
mharness - 10 Nov 2004 21:46 GMT
Hello Peter,

I was wondering if there might be a hidden cost to the sealer and have
pretty much decided to replace the coil anyway.  Never had much faith in
sealers and glues of any kind anyway.  Thanks for the link and your
comments.

One other question I have concerns the hose assembly that this car requires.
Do you or anyone else have any experience with whether it is usually
replaced regardless of its condition?  It's a $460 part but I also assume
that it's out with the dash again to replace it if it fails.  Same for the
$280 worth of vacuum actuators I suppose.

Thanks,

Mike

> There is no money in it for them.  Also most shops do not work on AC units
> that have had sealer installed.
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>
> Peter
Tiger - 11 Nov 2004 02:19 GMT
There is no hidden cost to the sealer... the only way the sealer harden is
when exposed to air. Otherwise, they are safe enough as long proper
procedure is observed when servicing A/C system... which is complete
evacuation of all freon before breaking the seal in the system for
replacement.
mharness - 02 Feb 2005 23:53 GMT
Well, I ended up buying the $286 oem core with the valve from Rusty and
installed it myself.  Don't even consider the cheaper core.  I tried one and
it did not fit worth a damn.  Spent another $300 on vacuum pots from the
dealer and $100 to have it recharged.  It works great and the stink is gone
too.

Can't say it's a job for the faint of heart but it didn't really take a huge
amount of skill either.  Hardest part was figuring out how to disassemble
the dash and console parts without breaking the clips and tits of plastic
that cleaverly hold everything together.

Saved $900 or more by doing about 14 hours of work.  I'd do it again if I
had to.

Mike

> Hello,
>
[quoted text clipped - 40 lines]
>
> Mike
 
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