A mechanic warned me against trying to remove the engine
block drain plug on my '91 300D 2.5 in order to drain and
flush the cooling system. He said that because the plug
is aluminum and the block is steel, electrolysis will
likely have resulted by now and I'd probably just shear
the head off the plug with my wrench.
His advice was to simply drain and refill the radiator
several times with water instead, running the engine up
to operating temperature and then draining the water
before ultimately pouring in the coolant mixture.
I figured some penetrating oil and a few taps straight
down on the top of the plug head with a hammer ought to
loosen it adequately, since I've never had any trouble
with that technique on my W123s. Any advice or caveats
about this?
Thanks,
Geoff

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pool man - 29 Dec 2004 03:01 GMT
nothing worse than mixing medals!
anyway if you don't want to mess with the plug i would just find a hill
point the nose downward do what your going to do.
point it up hill check your owners manual on capacities and use the MB
coolant not going over the % of mix required. my guess is a bit to much
is better than not enough.
make sure you burp the system with the heater on & are getting heat.
i have bronze pool pumps out there and after 2 years of salt air and
pool water leaking past the seals they never come apart even with the
bolts removed!
the case, minus a few cans!
trader4@optonline.net - 29 Dec 2004 13:29 GMT
I agree with the advice not to fool around with removing block plugs
unless really necessary. Another way to flush the cooling system is to
flush it with basicly a garden hose connected into the heater hose
loop. You can buy a flush kit that has all the connectors/adaptors for
a few bucks at auto stores or places like Walmart. They are located
with the antifreeze.