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Car Forum / Mercedes-Benz Cars / February 200512V source in W126?
I'm looking for a 12V source in a pre-86 W126 (380SE to be specific) off of which I can splice a power cord. The trick is this though, it need to be hot on run only or hot on start and run only. In the post-86's there's a wire that will work up in the dome light area. According to the wiring diagram, the only wires for the domelight are always hot in the pre-86s though. I'm thinking the interior temp sensor, which is up by the domelight is hot on run and start only. Can anybody verify? Thanks, Richard "marlinspike" <rishayegan@davidson.edu> haute in die Tasten: > The trick is this though, it need to be hot > on run only or hot on start and run only. Pull out the radio. It should have one always-on-power source (for memory serving) and one switched source. Frank  Signatureplease replace spam-muelleimer with fk-newsgroups for e-mail contact Citroen - Made in Trance I should have been more specific. It needs to be up top, near the rear view mirror. I want to hook up a radar detector, and I don't wnat a cable hanging down. Richard > "marlinspike" <rishayegan@davidson.edu> haute in die Tasten: > [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > Frank just run your own cable, under the trim and down the front pillar, under the covers of course. >I should have been more specific. It needs to be up top, near the rear view > mirror. I want to hook up a radar detector, and I don't wnat a cable [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] >> >> Frank Run it to where? Also, I'm not all that sure how to get underneath the front part of the headliner and then the A-pillar. Doesn't sound too easy. If I could use the power wire for the interior temp sensor I would have no wires running around, it would look clean, and it'd be easy, but does anybody know if it can be done? Richard > just run your own cable, under the trim and down the front pillar, under the > covers of course. [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > >> > >> Frank Run it off the accessory circuit, easily found behind the radio. the front trim comes down by removing the sunvisors, and clips and the rear view mirror and anything else attached to it. the A pillar if I remember correctly has a tab with a screw in it at the top back under the side trim. you will need to remove the handle to get the side cover out enough to undo the screw. > Run it to where? Also, I'm not all that sure how to get underneath the > front [quoted text clipped - 27 lines] >> >> >> >> Frank >I should have been more specific. It needs to be up top, near the rear view >mirror. I want to hook up a radar detector, and I don't wnat a cable hanging >down. Sigh. Dome light. Do a real good clean job. Use lots of insulating tape. when (if would be better) that wire contacts the body - zzzzzzzt - bye bye Mr. fuse. SignatureNeed Mercedes parts ? - http://parts.mbz.org http://www.mbz.org | Mercedes Mailing lists: http://lists.mbz.org 633CSi 250SE/C 300SD | Killies, killi.net, Crypts, aquaria.net 1970 280SE, 72 280SE | Old wristwatches http://watches.list.mbz.org Dome light is always hot. Richard > >I should have been more specific. It needs to be up top, near the rear view > >mirror. I want to hook up a radar detector, and I don't wnat a cable hanging [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > when (if would be better) that wire contacts the body - zzzzzzzt - bye bye > Mr. fuse. >I'm looking for a 12V source in a pre-86 W126 (380SE to be specific) off of >which I can splice a power cord. The trick is this though, it need to be hot [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] >Thanks, >Richard The seats, horns, roof, rear defroast and rear lighters are hot in run or start. The glovebox, lights, front lighter are hot in accesory or run. Look in your fuse box to see which fuse does your (varies by model year) and run yor wire from there. I wouldn't splice a wire inside the cabin, ever. Half the electrical bugs I fixed on my car were because of this. Stuff that Mercedes wired does last 300K miles. Other wiring mods made, shall we say, after it left the factory did not fare so well and after much fuse blowing and replacing wires are ok now, but run your own wire, please. SignatureNeed Mercedes parts ? - http://parts.mbz.org http://www.mbz.org | Mercedes Mailing lists: http://lists.mbz.org 633CSi 250SE/C 300SD | Killies, killi.net, Crypts, aquaria.net 1970 280SE, 72 280SE | Old wristwatches http://watches.list.mbz.org > The seats, horns, roof, rear defroast and rear lighters are hot in run or > start. The glovebox, lights, front lighter are hot in accesory or run. [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > it left the factory did not fare so well and after much fuse blowing > and replacing wires are ok now, but run your own wire, please. I had decided to go with the dome light and just live with using the detector's on/off switch since I didn't feel like running a wire from the glovebox light, but what you say worries me. Do you really think the addtional 225 to 425 mA will blow the fuse? Richard >"Richard Sexton" <richard@vrx.news> wrote in message >> I wouldn't splice a wire inside the cabin, ever. >glovebox light, but what you say worries me. Do you really think the >addtional 225 to 425 mA will blow the fuse? I doubt that the extra current would blow the fuse, it's the workmanship of the 'aftermarket' splices that causes all the problems. >I had decided to go with the dome light and just live with using the >detector's on/off switch since I didn't feel like running a wire from the >glovebox light, but what you say worries me. Do you really think the >addtional 225 to 425 mA will blow the fuse? >Richard No, the 225 to 425 mA isn't going to hurt anything, it's the eventual shorting of a wire onto the body that'll blow a fuse. Do a real clean neat job in there. SignatureNeed Mercedes parts ? - http://parts.mbz.org http://www.mbz.org | Mercedes Mailing lists: http://lists.mbz.org 633CSi 250SE/C 300SD | Killies, killi.net, Crypts, aquaria.net 1970 280SE, 72 280SE | Old wristwatches http://watches.list.mbz.org > No, the 225 to 425 mA isn't going to hurt anything, it's the eventual > shorting of a wire onto the body that'll blow a fuse. Do a real clean > neat job in there. Oh, of course. I believe there's an official dedicated ground at the back of that cavity too, so it'll be done right. Richard BTW, you're working with Rusty? Those lemforder oil pans you have for an 85 380SE...aluminum or steel? Thanks, Richard > >I had decided to go with the dome light and just live with using the > >detector's on/off switch since I didn't feel like running a wire from the [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > shorting of a wire onto the body that'll blow a fuse. Do a real clean > neat job in there. >BTW, you're working with Rusty? Those lemforder oil pans you have for an 85 >380SE...aluminum or steel? "working with" is not quite accurate. He sponsors the website a bit. You'd have to call and ask abtout he oil panns, or email. SignatureNeed Mercedes parts ? - http://parts.mbz.org http://www.mbz.org | Mercedes Mailing lists: http://lists.mbz.org 633CSi 250SE/C 300SD | Killies, killi.net, Crypts, aquaria.net 1970 280SE, 72 280SE | Old wristwatches http://watches.list.mbz.org Oh I see, you're with mbz.org. I thought from your sig that you were actually working for him. Richard > >BTW, you're working with Rusty? Those lemforder oil pans you have for an 85 > >380SE...aluminum or steel? > > "working with" is not quite accurate. He sponsors the website a bit. > > You'd have to call and ask abtout he oil panns, or email. |
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