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Car Forum / Mercedes-Benz Cars / February 2005

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1984 300TD Ball Joint

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Kenneth Fanyo - 11 Feb 2005 02:08 GMT
Hi,

The lower front ball joint on one wheel has lost its rubber boot. The dang
thing still seems to be tight and I've been dosing it with lithium grease
every time it starts to squawk for over a year. These are amazing
automobiles.

I am gearing up to replace it (and its mate on the other side) and I was
wondering if there are some other parts in the suspension or steering that
are routinely replaced (that is, whether they need it or not) whenever you
go to the trouble of taking off the spring and so on to get at this ball
joint.

Also, I'm thinking that if the opposite wheel is raised somewhat even though
the frame is on jackstands, the anti-sway bar will hold up everything above
the lower ball joint of the wheel I'm working on.

Thanks very much in advance. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Regards,

Ken
Karl - 11 Feb 2005 03:10 GMT
If you don't have the remover/installer tool, you are in deep do-do. It has to be pressed out and
in.

> Hi,
>
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
>
> Ken
Kenneth Fanyo - 11 Feb 2005 04:04 GMT
I do have the tool. Frankly, I feel like I'm stepping into it anyway. :-)

Should any or all of the upper ball joints, upper/lower control arm
bushings, steering linkage ball joints, braking stabilizer ends, etc., be
replaced "automatically" whenever a lower ball joint is replaced?

Thanks again,

Ken

> If you don't have the remover/installer tool, you are in deep do-do. It has to be pressed out and
> in.
[quoted text clipped - 21 lines]
> >
> > Ken
Karl - 11 Feb 2005 14:39 GMT
No, just replace the bad parts you see. The upper ball joint is part of the upper arm. The wear
point is the bushings up in the fenderwell. If the bushings have a big gap, replace the upper arm.

Also look at the brake support joint. That is mounted horizontally in the rear on each side. Follow
the tube going back from the lower control arm where it goes into a round thing. The round thing is
the brake support joint. If the rubber is all torn, the joint is bad. The joint keeps the wheel from
moving forward and back when you step on the brake.

> I do have the tool. Frankly, I feel like I'm stepping into it anyway. :-)
>
[quoted text clipped - 38 lines]
> > >
> > > Ken
Henry Kolesnik - 11 Feb 2005 14:45 GMT
If the car clunks at slow speeds and on braking check the track rod mounts.
Ball joints are easier if you have a press.
Signature


73
Hank WD5JFR

> Hi,
>
[quoted text clipped - 20 lines]
>
> Ken
R & K - 14 Feb 2005 20:53 GMT
> If the car clunks at slow speeds and on braking check the track rod mounts.
> Ball joints are easier if you have a press.

If these are press in ball joints, get thee to someone with a hydraulic
press!!!! I've done them with a manual press.  Two wrenches on the
press, cheater bars on the wrenches, my husband and I were on the
cheater bars, and both of us had our feet planted on the wall of our
garage.  We got them in but we popped the welds on the manual press with
the last one.  I don't want to even think of the amount of pressure we
had to use. <G>
But at least I knew they were not going to pop out easily!!

Rochelle
 
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