I have seen W123 with trailer hitch... so you shouldn't have problem either.
Easy way to hook up the wires is at the taillight wiring harness where you
put bulbs.
> I have seen W123 with trailer hitch... so you shouldn't have problem either.
> Easy way to hook up the wires is at the taillight wiring harness where you
> put bulbs.
Caution - I _do_ run a hitch on my 81 300D - but see the following
article:
http://www.mbca.org/pages/tech/MBCA_Troubleshooting_cruise_cont.htm
They caution agains running ANY extra load on the brake light
circuit - even to the extent of running the standard American
1157 brake light bulbs. Apparently, too much current through
the bake (ok, brake) light circuit can be damaging to your cruise
control - and tapping in extra trailer lights definitely qualifies
as extra current.
I run a special unit that detects power on the brake-light circuits,
but pulls the power for the trailer brake lights from a different source
(I pulled extra wiring from my cigarette lighter circuit, as I seldom
light cigarettes while slamming on the brakes). Contact any reputable
trailer/hitch dealer (NOT u-haul) about this module. As I recall, it was
about $45-$50 USD - cheaper than frying your cruise-control. So far, no
problems.
Cheers,
Conrad
Tiger - 30 Mar 2005 05:47 GMT
Ahh... I c... sounds like a simple relay setup and use power source from
elsewhere.
Conrad - 01 Apr 2005 02:44 GMT
Yeah, sort of - it's a solid-state thingy that's supposed
to be very low drain on the control circuit. Much lower
drain than a conventional wire relay. Probably the
kind of circuit that MB SHOULD have used in the cruise
control to start with to avoide dumping the full amperage
of the brake lights through it. Oh well, they can't get
it right every time.
Conrad
> Ahh... I c... sounds like a simple relay setup and use power source from
> elsewhere.