I've got two rain leaks going on that are driving me nuts. One is in
the front windshield which results in water pooling in the heater
blower cage. The other is in the rear window, resulting in water
getting into the right rear trunk area. I'm pretty sure they are from
the seals.
My question is, does anyone have experience getting the seals on these
windows replaced? My concern is, if I take it to a windshield shop,
what are the chances that replacing the seals will work? I've had
relatively new cars where having the windshield repaired resulted in
leaks that were difficult to get solved. If I was relatively confident
that I could get this done and it would work and last, I'd be happy to
spend the money. The other alternative would be to try to put some
silicone sealer under the seals in the areas that are likely leaking.
The seals themselves appear to be in relatively decent shape, eg no
obvious big cracks, etc., even though they are 25 years old.
BTW, any input on what I should expect to pay if I get the seals
replaced?
TIA
T.G. Lambach - 22 Apr 2005 02:13 GMT
Sure the leaks aren't originating from the sun roof's drains?
Drains get dirty and eventually rust through.
I'd test them before spending any $$ on the window seals.
trader4@optonline.net - 22 Apr 2005 03:08 GMT
"Sure the leaks aren't originating from the sun roof's drains?
Drains get dirty and eventually rust through.
I'd test them before spending any $$ on the window seals. "
Definitely not the sun roof. The trunk one leaks when sprayed with
water along the right rear window area. Front leaks when sprayed along
the right side of the windshield, though I haven't been able to
duplicate how the water is getting into the blower housing. But I can
see water dripping from under the dash, near where the glass would meet
the body, though its obviously hard to see, and water can be traveling
too.
T.G. Lambach - 22 Apr 2005 20:58 GMT
OK. Windshield, check that the cowl's water drains (on the firewall) are
not clogged with dirt.
Rear window - tough one, some glass shops won't touch it for fear of the
glass breaking.
trader4@optonline.net - 23 Apr 2005 14:44 GMT
"OK. Windshield, check that the cowl's water drains (on the firewall)
are
not clogged with dirt. "
You mean the drains that take water away from the area where the
winshield wiper motor is located and that serves as the air intake for
the heater? Covered by the chrome grill? I've been there, and water
flows right through there fine. Where it enters the cabin is at the
very top of the underside of the dash, just about where the window seal
would be located.
"Rear window - tough one, some glass shops won't touch it for fear of
the
glass breaking. "
Is this a problem with the windshield too? That's the kind of thing I
was wondering about. Plus how leak free, how long it will last etc. I
personally had a new car that needed a windshield and it leaked became
a problem. Plus I've heard from other people with similar experiences.
Think I would be better off trying to slip some silicone under the
edges of the existing seals? I was debating whether to try that, as I
figured it could make it harder to fix if I then decided to get the
seals replaced. The silicone would still be on the car where the new
seal would have to go and unlesss you were careful to remove all of it,
it would seem it could make for a leak with the new seal.
Ernie Sparks - 23 Apr 2005 23:38 GMT
> "OK. Windshield, check that the cowl's water drains (on the firewall)
> are
[quoted text clipped - 22 lines]
> seal would have to go and unlesss you were careful to remove all of it,
> it would seem it could make for a leak with the new seal.
If you suspect the leaks are around the window seals here's a simple
solution: Put masking tape (if possible use painter's blue tape) around the
window with the tape flush up against the seal. If you want to be extra
careful also put tape on the seal itself, flush against the edge of the tape
surrounding the window(s). This will leave you a very thin line between the
two. Take a NEW tube of GE clear silicone sealant and cut the applicator so
you have a fairly small hole from which the sealant can be squeezed. This
hole should allow a bead about the size of the lead in a lead pencil. Using
a "hook" type awl, such as that used by window installers, slide the tip
under the edge of the seal and pull it all the way around the window to
loosen the seal from the body BEFORE you try to apply any sealant. The
second time around it is best to have another pair of hands to do a good
job. While one person slowly pulls the hooked awl around and under the seal
the second person can squeeze in a SMALL "string" of sealant directly behind
the awl. Make sure you have a complete string of sealant all the way around
the window. If you somehow skip or miss a spot this can be a place for leaks
to resume.
As you move around the window you may notice a small amount of sealant
oozing out from under the seal. Don't worry. This is why you have the tape
around the edge. After you are through take a clean rag and carefully wipe
away any excess sealant. You will get some on the tape and that is why it's
there in the first place. After an hour or two you can remove the tape. You
should have a clean, sealant-free edge to the window seal.
Don't worry about silicone sealant on the painted part of the body under the
seal. Any window installer worth his salt will clean that area up before
reinstalling a new windshield or rear window should that be necessary down
the road. If this doesn't fix your leaks go back and check prior messages in
this thread for other potential leak possibilities. Good Luck.
Martin Joseph - 22 Apr 2005 07:42 GMT
> My question is, does anyone have experience getting the seals on these
> windows replaced? My concern is, if I take it to a windshield shop,
> what are the
Excellent. Any reputable windshield replacement will include a
warranty against leakage.
Roland Franzius - 26 Apr 2005 14:02 GMT
trader4@optonline.net schrieb:
> I've got two rain leaks going on that are driving me nuts. One is in
> the front windshield which results in water pooling in the heater
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
> The seals themselves appear to be in relatively decent shape, eg no
> obvious big cracks, etc., even though they are 25 years old.
I did it once for my 230.6.
The normal way: Pull out the metal ridge from its groove in rubber seal.
Be careful if you have to use it agein.
Press out the window from inside with your feet. Clean the metal of
window opening. In case of rust (and this the sourcce of water
definitely) clean weld and paint it.
To put in the old or new rubber seal: Draw a thin cable around the body
nut of the seal fixed to the glass. Press it completely into the window
opening and then draw the inner seal lip behind it while drawing the
cable off from inside once around.
To fix the metal ridge without bending needs some experience. Talcum
powder and a soft hammer may be helpful.

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Roland Franzius