Not to mention that the R134 isn't as cool as the R12. I miss the R12
in my car.
> Suggest you stay with R-12; the R134 isn't cheap anymore. So "topping
> off" with R-12 will probably cost a lot less than any conversion.
Well thanks,... I think. I had heard
that R134a was not cooling as well, but thought it was because it
requires higher pressures . As I recall its been over 3 years since
my system was recharged at 120.oo a pound, I think. Dye was put in,
but I never went back since everything worked. I think this sounds like
leaky O rings ......do you agree? Should I have the system "flushed
and pressure tested" before refilling..... or just topped off.
By the way flushed with what?
Ernie Sparks - 14 Jul 2005 05:29 GMT
> Well thanks,... I think. I had heard
> that R134a was not cooling as well, but thought it was because it
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> and pressure tested" before refilling..... or just topped off.
> By the way flushed with what?
Whenever you change from R12 to R134a the only thing that really needs to be
changed is the drier canister. Everything else will be fine, including the
compressor. When you draw down the system you'll remove nearly everything
from the R12 system including most of the oil so you will want to put in at
least one can with an oil charge. If you do decide to switch over to R134a
put in a can with a sealer included in the mixture. I've use this and it
seems to seal any small leak I've encountered. Incidentally, I've change two
of my own MBs to R134a with good results......cold and all that in warm,
sunny S. Cal.
However, having said all of this I'd do as the other fellows suggested and
stay with the R12 as long as possible. It works and, in my humble opinion,
has been thrashed by tree-huggers hoping to make a buck or two on companies
producing R134a since they obviously lost out on the R12 bubble.