Car Forum / Mercedes-Benz Cars / August 2005
Looking for info on Mercedes diesel engines...
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Pete Stephenson - 19 Aug 2005 04:58 GMT Greetings all,
I'm in the market to buy a 1980s-era Mercedes 300D. I've found a good deal on one that has been modified to run on vegetable oil, but which has 248k miles.
Assuming the vehicle has been properly maintained, what is the expected lifespan of the engine? 248k miles seems like a lot to me, but then again, the only vehicle I had that came close to that was a gas-powered 1982 Volvo which was still running strong when I sold it a few years ago.
Can I expect it, with proper care, to run to 500k without many problems or loss of power?
Are rebuilt engines available? If so, what can one expect to pay for them?
I realize that engines are quite expensive, but these cars have character. Either way, I'd like to ensure that the vehicle would have options available if there were to be engine problems.
Thanks for any information.
Cheers!
 Signature Pete Stephenson HeyPete.com
Ian Blake - 19 Aug 2005 06:56 GMT For what it's worth, my '85 300SD (same driveline as the D) has better than 225,000 miles on it now and has no problems whatsoever with the engine; in three years I've had no problems, and there's no indication that the previous owners ever did, either. The 5-cylinder 3.0L Mercedes turbodiesel is renowned for its longevity, as long as basic maintenance (oil changes, valve adjustment) is kept up. With recently-replaced glow plugs, mine still fires up immediately in winter. If I had to guess what problems I might expect in the next hundred thousand miles, engine trouble would probably be the absolute last on my (very short) list.
I don't know what effect vegetable oil has on an engine's reliability, though it's probably negligible. I have heard of Mercedes diesels that have been converted and run fine.
> Greetings all, > > I'm in the market to buy a 1980s-era Mercedes 300D. I've found a good > deal on one that has been modified to run on vegetable oil, but which > has 248k miles. Pete Stephenson - 19 Aug 2005 07:47 GMT > For what it's worth, my '85 300SD (same driveline as the D) has > better than 225,000 miles on it now and has no problems whatsoever [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > hundred thousand miles, engine trouble would probably be the absolute > last on my (very short) list. Excellent. I'm nervous about buying a high-mileage used car, even a quality Mercedes[1].
I've been told that Mercedes maintenance and service can be rather pricey, particularly with older vehicles. Is this the case?
> I don't know what effect vegetable oil has on an engine's > reliability, though it's probably negligible. I have heard of > Mercedes diesels that have been converted and run fine. Agreed. I doubt it has any sort of negligible effect. It'd sure be nice to drive on practically free fuel, while being able to switch to regular petrodiesel when on long roadtrips away from the dispenser at home.
With 248k miles on the Mercedes odometer already, do you think it'd be worthwhile to sell my 2003 Honda to purchase it? I've been doing a lot of reading at Edmunds.com, and I'm not entirely convinced it's a good idea.
Now, if it only had <150k? Different story altogether, and something I'd jump at. But nearly 250k? It gives me pause.
[1] In order to buy this car, I'd need to sell my 2003, 20,500 mile Honda Insight hybrid. I like the car, but I need a backseat, a trunk, and a more durable body. The plastic/aluminum body takes a beating, even from normal road conditions (in two years, I've put more than $6k into bodywork, $3k of which was when my sister backed a Buick into it 2 weeks after I bought it. The rest were just normal wear-and-tear, like a rock vs. hood/windshield, which cost $1,400.). The Mercedes sounds good, but is it worth selling a two-year-old, low-mileage car for? Are they /that/ reliable?
 Signature Pete Stephenson HeyPete.com
cp - 19 Aug 2005 08:58 GMT > Excellent. I'm nervous about buying a high-mileage used car, even a > quality Mercedes[1]. 248K IS a lot (mine has over 300K). You have to include other factors, such as the condition of the transaxle, transmission, all the other mechanical bits and pieces. There are many excellent cars out there with much less mileage, don't hurry, find a good one that has been WELL maintained. Make sure you get one that has no oil loss. MAKE SURE that the transmission fluid level is proper.
> I've been told that Mercedes maintenance and service can be rather > pricey, particularly with older vehicles. Is this the case? Any badly maintained car will be pricey. If old benzes were costly to maintain most of the people on this board (including myself) wouldn't be driving them. We have 5 benz diesels in our family and we're definitely happy with them.
> With 248k miles on the Mercedes odometer already, do you think it'd be > worthwhile to sell my 2003 Honda to purchase it? BAD idea. 248K is too much. Look for another one, check out ebay for nearby cars.
> I've been doing a lot of reading at Edmunds.com, and I'm not entirely >convinced it's a good idea. It's NOT a good idea. 248K is too much to buy.
> Now, if it only had <150k? Different story altogether, and something I'd > jump at. But nearly 250k? It gives me pause. I wouldn't get it.
> [1] In order to buy this car, I'd need to sell my 2003, 20,500 mile > Honda Insight hybrid. Aren't you going to lose a lot of money selling it?
> I like the car, but I need a backseat, a trunk, > and a more durable body. The plastic/aluminum body takes a beating, even [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > is it worth selling a two-year-old, low-mileage car for? Are they /that/ > reliable? They are that reliable. My friend has a 1958 that he uses for daily driving. :-)
cp
Pete Stephenson - 19 Aug 2005 15:37 GMT > Aren't you going to lose a lot of money selling it? Surprisingly, no.
This is the Bay Area, and there's a large market for hybrid vehicles. Many people use them as some sort of political statement.
I bought it at $20k-and-change in '03. I got an offer for $15k the other day. With about $6k of bodywork put into it[1], it would seem that I would come out slightly ahead. Even without the bodywork, I'm rather surprised that a low-volume, never-very-popular car hasn't depreciated far more than that.
2000-2002 Insights are selling on eBayMotors for about $10k, and they have ~100k miles. This only has 20.5k, which is quite good.
Getting back to the Mercedes, I'm curious...on one hand, you say that "they /are/ that reliable", yet also say that "248k is too much to buy". How does that work?
Unfortunately, late-80s/early-90s 300D series vehicles with less than $100k miles do not seem to exist, at least not on Craigslist, which has numerous ones locally. Many of them have in excess of 200k miles. That's what's in my budget, and the years when Mercedes seems to have made Good Diesel Engines. Newer ones are much too expensive for me, and there are several years where the number of diesels produced was rather low.
[1] Again, the body is rather...delicate.
 Signature Pete Stephenson HeyPete.com
cp - 20 Aug 2005 07:39 GMT > Getting back to the Mercedes, I'm curious...on one hand, you say that > "they /are/ that reliable", yet also say that "248k is too much to buy". > How does that work? 248K is too much too buy because of potential work to be done. Of course, if you're getting it dirt cheap then definitely get it. Once a benz is "stabilized", everything done, it will keep on going. Other cars just fall apart. Not all of course.
> Unfortunately, late-80s/early-90s 300D series vehicles with less than > $100k miles do not seem to exist, at least not on Craigslist, which has > numerous ones locally. Many of them have in excess of 200k miles. That's > what's in my budget, If they're cheap then it's worth it but find out what has to be done, look for affordable mechanics, get everything done and the car will be fine.
> and the years when Mercedes seems to have made Good Diesel Engines. From what I hears whenever I'm in Europe, they're still excellent. Though there have been issues of course. My uncle has a Sprinter which he uses to deliver produce, couldn't be happier with it.
> Newer ones are much too expensive for me, and there are > several years where the number of diesels produced was rather low.
> [1] Again, the body is rather...delicate. If you can get it cheap and fixed inexpensively then it's worth it.
Here's some good advice; go on some local forums and search out other benz fanatics and ask them for any good, reasonable mechanics, there will definitely be some around.
And another piece of advice; do NOT take the car (if you buy it) to a dealer unless as a last resort. It's ridiculous how many people bring old benzes to the benz dealer and then complain what a ripoff benzes are.
cp
T.G. Lambach - 19 Aug 2005 08:01 GMT You don't state if this is a turbodiesel (120 HP) or not (77 HP). Buy only a turbodiesel, same fuel use.
The five cylinder diesel that you want to buy is a very tough and durable all cast iron engine. That said, given normal maintenance it should go 250K - 275K miles +/- 10%. Given very good maintenance 300K etc.
However, by now this car has been owned by X number of people, some of them were good to it others perhaps not, so it's incumbent on YOU, for its your money that's at risk, to have an independent M-B shop verify the engine's actual condition with a compression test. That's the ONLY diagnostic test that will tell you its internal condition (short of taking it apart). This will cost about $100 (request an estimate) but then you'll know if the motor has many miles remaining, or not. And if not then you'll be happy to have limited your expenditure on this car to $100.
Rebuilt engines are available for $3,000 - $3,500 but realistically few twenty year old cars merit that cost so a used engine ($800 - $900 + installation) is the usual alternative.
Don't get too excited about saving money on fuel, the 24 mpg economy doesn't offset repair costs. This will only work as an economy car if YOU do all the maintenance and most of the repairs. If ownership and running cost govern and fixing cars isn't for you then buy a high volume car that any local garage knows how to fix.
Pete Stephenson - 19 Aug 2005 08:44 GMT > You don't state if this is a turbodiesel (120 HP) or not (77 HP). Buy > only a turbodiesel, same fuel use. It's the turbodiesel model.
> The five cylinder diesel that you want to buy is a very tough and > durable all cast iron engine. That said, given normal maintenance it > should go 250K - 275K miles +/- 10%. Given very good maintenance 300K > etc. Hmm. Considering it already has 248k miles on the clock, that doesn't sound very good.
I was under the impression that Mercedes diesel engines had significantly longer lifespans than what you quoted above, assuming proper service.
> However, by now this car has been owned by X number of people, some > of them were good to it others perhaps not, so it's incumbent on YOU, [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > or not. And if not then you'll be happy to have limited your > expenditure on this car to $100. Agreed. I happen to have a most excellent mechanic shop that specializes in Volvos, BMWs, and Mercedes. They offer pre-purchase inspections for $125. When I owned a Volvo, I had it serviced there for 13 years. They are trustworthy.
Would a thorough inspection by a well-qualified shop be able to accurately (within reason) estimate the lifespan of the car? You know, like "Oh, your engine has about 150k left in it, your interior looks great, and all the wires and vacuum hoses should last for the foreseeable future...".
> Rebuilt engines are available for $3,000 - $3,500 but realistically > few twenty year old cars merit that cost so a used engine ($800 - > $900 + installation) is the usual alternative. Hmm. Something to keep in mind, thanks.
> Don't get too excited about saving money on fuel, the 24 mpg economy > doesn't offset repair costs. This will only work as an economy car if > YOU do all the maintenance and most of the repairs. If ownership and > running cost govern and fixing cars isn't for you then buy a high > volume car that any local garage knows how to fix. I have a Honda Insight (two-door hatchback hybrid) that I rather like, except I'm looking for a vehicle with a back seat, sizeable trunk, and is more rugged/durable. Diesel-powered is preferred, due to the ability to run on biodiesel and vegetable oil.
Assuming the car is in good shape, and I will hopefully be inspecting it shortly, my main worry would be the drivetrain (engine, transmission, etc.). If the engine is nearing the end of its service life, that could be a problem. Similarly, if parts of the car start breaking or malfunctioning, that could also be an issue.
I don't mind turning wrenches every now and again to fix something...but the Mercedes /was/ designed as a luxury car. With regular service (i.e. oil changes, fuel filter changes, etc.), I would hope that it would last pretty much indefinitely in terms of most interior parts not associated with the engine. Sure, a speedometer cable might wear out, and I can easily replace that. But if I need a new engine, a new transmission, new headliner, new instrument panel, etc., that would definitely not be worth it.
Let us assume for a moment that the vehicle is in good working order. No repairs are necessary, and all that's needed is the standard regularly service at pre-scheduled intervals. What's a ballpark figure for these costs? I take my Honda in for an oil change every 3,000 miles at the local dealer (they have good pricing on service), and it costs me about $40. Regularly scheduled maintenance (i.e. 5k, 15k, 30k, etc.) costs a few hundred bucks or so (no more than $300-$400, so far). This is for a car with 20,300 miles on it. Do you have any idea what I would expect for the Mercedes, assuming that there's no major repairs necessary?
Having a vegetable oil/biodiesel-fueled vehicle would cut down significantly on my fuel costs, which, even with a hybrid, are the biggest costs I incur with my vehicle. Assuming regularly scheduled service is able to keep it in good working order, I should actually be able to save money over my current car. However, if things start falling off, or the engine wears out, etc...that could be a major issue for me, and I'd stick with the Insight, small trunk and all.
Thanks for your help -- I'm looking to make an educated, informed decision and am consulting sources ranging from Edmunds.com, to this group, to several diesel-savvy friends I have. Your knowledge and experience is extremely helpful.
 Signature Pete Stephenson HeyPete.com
CaptainW116 - 19 Aug 2005 09:05 GMT Aside from the engine,do an inspection throughout the entire vehicle for rust.You did not specify if this is a W123 or a W124 but if a W123,pay close attention to the floorboard(lift carpet up)especially at the accelerator pedal and the seat base.In the trunk,look in the side pockets and underneath that section also,plus the rear wheel arches and mounting area of rear bumper.When you open the doors,look at the underside of door and where the seatbelt fastens to the pillar.Hope I didn't scare you on W123's forever but thought I would add.
T.G. Lambach - 19 Aug 2005 20:03 GMT I've owned a 1980 300SD since new; it now has gone 109K miles. I keep it garaged and in top condition. It's a great car for local use; we use a newer, smoother, quieter and more powerful car for trips.
The diesel's repair and maintenance cost approximately equals its fuel cost: 8 or 9 cents (now probably 11 cents) per mile, insurance excluded. I do the valve adjustments and small repairs, a shop does the oil changes and any major work. That's its long term economics.
In reading your posts, it would be a big mistake to trade off a two year old car for a twenty year old car, IMHO. I say that despite my owing a 25 year old car, but mine was bought new and I know it well so there are no buyer's surprises hidden away somewhere.
Pete Stephenson - 19 Aug 2005 20:55 GMT > The diesel's repair and maintenance cost approximately equals its fuel > cost: 8 or 9 cents (now probably 11 cents) per mile, insurance excluded. > I do the valve adjustments and small repairs, a shop does the oil > changes and any major work. That's its long term economics. Indeed. Hopefully by running on free waste vegetable oil, I should be able to cut expenses even more.
I don't mind doing work like that on the car (leaving the oil and major work to the shop), in fact, I'd rather like it. :)
> In reading your posts, it would be a big mistake to trade off a two year > old car for a twenty year old car, IMHO. I say that despite my owing a > 25 year old car, but mine was bought new and I know it well so there are > no buyer's surprises hidden away somewhere. I agree. That doesn't make much sense.
I'm going down today to examine and possibly test-drive a 1992 300D, which has 198k miles. According to the owner, it's in good-plus condition. Obviously, a thorough examination will determine if that's the case.
While perhaps selling a 2-year-old car for a 20-year-old car isn't the wisest of choice, selling it for a 13-year-old-car would be a bit better. About 50k less mileage, less wear-and-tear on the car, etc. Probably a better AC too.
There's another car, an '87 300D with only 119k miles which might also be something to consider. Same price as the '92, though I may be able to negotiate a bit on both vehicles -- they're asking double the Blue Book private-party price.
The guy selling the '83 veggie-oil car also does conversions for a living. I inquired as to the cost of converting the engine to veggie-oil (it can, of course, burn regular diesel as well) and what the cost of a home filtering/fueling station would be. It would be a far better choice to get a better vehicle with fewer miles on it and do the conversion than get an older, more worn vehicle with the conversion kit already installed.
And I certainly wouldn't feel uncomfortable selling my 20,500 mile Insight for a 119k Mercedes. 250k, that's a bit much. 198k...I'm not sure. Depends on the rest of the vehicle and a thorough inspection.
Amazingly enough, I just got an offer for $16k for the Insight, which is excellent. We'll see. :)
 Signature Pete Stephenson HeyPete.com
T.G. Lambach - 19 Aug 2005 21:16 GMT I believe the '87 300D has a six cylinder 148 HP turbo diesel. Nice engine, smoother than the older five cylinder engine BUT cannot be overheated. This engine has hydraulic valve compensation so there's no valve adjustment requirement.
This '87 may be something to look at seriously due to its relatively low mileage. If you buy it be sure to maintain its cooling system well.
Not many '87 diesels were sold.
Pete Stephenson - 19 Aug 2005 22:09 GMT > I believe the '87 300D has a six cylinder 148 HP turbo diesel. Nice > engine, smoother than the older five cylinder engine BUT cannot be > overheated. This engine has hydraulic valve compensation so there's no > valve adjustment requirement. Good thing to know. How does it compare in terms of horsepower and torque?
What about early 90's (1990 to, say, 1992) diesels? How do they compare? Still have the tank-like feeling?
> This '87 may be something to look at seriously due to its relatively low > mileage. If you buy it be sure to maintain its cooling system well. *nods* Proper service will, of course, be done as recommended by the manual and mechanic.
I'm also thinking of doing the GreaseCar.com veggie-oil kit, probably doing it myself.
> Not many '87 diesels were sold. Indeed. That's what the seller claims, using it to justify their double-blue-book-value asking price.
 Signature Pete Stephenson HeyPete.com
T.G. Lambach - 19 Aug 2005 21:23 GMT Not to "rain on your parade" but do you really want the mess and smell of diesel fuel and oil etc. in your garage?
Go to any diesel pump and drip a few drops onto your hand - and then try to get it off. Like a skunk odor, IMHO.
Pete Stephenson - 19 Aug 2005 22:12 GMT > Not to "rain on your parade" but do you really want the mess and smell > of diesel fuel and oil etc. in your garage? Hopefully I wouldn't be doing much with actual diesel fuel in the garage. More like work with vegetable oil. I'm hoping to make an arrangement with a local diner (that I'm a moderately frequent customer at) to have them set aside some oil every week for me into a plastic oil drum.
Hopefully the filtering/fueling system at home would be a sealed system, so I just need to bring the drum back home (and leave an empty one there for the diner), let it settle, filter it, and pump it into the "ready to fuel" drum. I'd strive to have it work with practically no open containers, so the risk of spilling would hopefully be low.
> Go to any diesel pump and drip a few drops onto your hand - and then try > to get it off. Like a skunk odor, IMHO. I think I'll pass. :)
 Signature Pete Stephenson HeyPete.com
Juergen . - 20 Aug 2005 00:59 GMT > in Volvos, BMWs, and Mercedes. They offer pre-purchase > inspections for $125. Well spent $125!
Juergen
Dori A Schmetterling - 20 Aug 2005 20:29 GMT Long time no see. Looooong holiday...?
DAS
For direct contact replace nospam with schmetterling ---
[...]
> Well spent $125! > > Juergen Juergen . - 20 Aug 2005 23:35 GMT Hi Dori,
> Long time no see. Looooong holiday...? Yes, but also _so_ many other things to do...
Kind regards
Juergen
Dori A Schmetterling - 21 Aug 2005 22:12 GMT Hi Jürgen
Yes, indeed. I spend too much time on these NGs...
DAS
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> Hi Dori, > [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > Juergen Cheesehead - 19 Aug 2005 13:08 GMT The thought I'd raise isn't with longevity. Several friends over the years have taken their MB diesels well into the 400k range. Even if this one would do that well, subtraction will tell you more. You've got probably 125K left. That's not a lot. Here in Columbus someone this week is selling a '91 350SD for $13K with
a little over 100K miles. That would be a nice diesel to start with.
Collin
trader4@optonline.net - 19 Aug 2005 14:56 GMT The car has 248K miles on it, which is at least in the range of the typical lifespan. Unless the rest of the car is in pristine condition and you are prepared to spend $4000 to have a rebuilt engine installed, I would walk. You also have to be prepared to deal with lots of the other components that you can expect to go at this mileage and age. Things like vacuum hose connectors and actuators, window seals, etc. Some of these are dependent on age, as well as miles, as plastic/rubber deteriorates over time. Many of these smaller things don't cost that much to fix, if you do the work yourself. However, if you're selling a 2 year old car to buy this one, this would likely be more aggravation than you are prepared to deal with.
trader4@optonline.net - 20 Aug 2005 00:02 GMT "The thought I'd raise isn't with longevity. Several friends over the years have taken their MB diesels well into the 400k range. Even if this one would do that well, subtraction will tell you more. You've got probably 125K left. That's not a lot. "
Uh, isn't that longevity that you're talking about?
cp - 20 Aug 2005 07:42 GMT > Here in Columbus someone this week is selling a '91 350SD for $13K with > a little over 100K miles. That would be a nice diesel to start with. '91 350SD? Best NOT to touch it unless the engine has been replaced or fixed.
Juergen . - 20 Aug 2005 23:39 GMT > > Here in Columbus someone this week is selling a '91 350SD for $13K with > > a little over 100K miles. That would be a nice diesel to start with. > '91 350SD? Best NOT to touch it unless the engine has been replaced or fixed. A friend of mine still drives his 1993 300SD Turbodiesel (as it was called then, W140) from new, now has circa 150.000 km (ca. 95k mi) and never has had any problems with the engine.
Juergen
cp - 21 Aug 2005 05:23 GMT > A friend of mine still drives his 1993 300SD Turbodiesel > (as it was called then, W140) from new, now has circa > 150.000 km (ca. 95k mi) and never has had any problems > with the engine. But weren't the '91 engines problematic?
cp
Juergen . - 19 Aug 2005 22:12 GMT > I'm in the market to buy a 1980s-era Mercedes 300D. I've found a good > deal on one that has been modified to run on vegetable oil, but which > has 248k miles. It would be helpful to state clearly what you are talking about:
W123 300D W123 300D Turbodiesel W124 300D W124 300D Turbodiesel
because they have different engines and different bodies.
This is a W123 <http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MERCEDES-300D-TURBO-DISEL-IN-PRETINE-CONDITION-99 000K_W0QQitemZ4569355211QQcategoryZ6330QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem>
and this is a W124 <http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1987-Mercedes-Benz-300D-Turbo-Diesel_W0QQitemZ456 9336065QQcategoryZ6330QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem> (European headlights)
Juergen
Pete Stephenson - 19 Aug 2005 22:24 GMT > It would be helpful to state clearly what you are > talking about: [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > because they have different engines and > different bodies. It would appear to be the W123 300D Turbodiesel.
My apologies, I did not know there were different models of the 300D for a particular year, other than with/without the turbo.
 Signature Pete Stephenson HeyPete.com
Juergen . - 20 Aug 2005 00:46 GMT > It would appear to be the W123 300D Turbodiesel. > My apologies, I did not know there were different models of the 300D for > a particular year, other than with/without the turbo. No apologies needed - but as these cars are different it simply is vital to know which model to talk about.
Ok, now for the W123:
The 300D Turbodiesel engine is sufficient for todays use, but it is no fast car.
Keep in mind these cars are old - so check carefully for rust.
Typical are: Front fenders, below the bumper, there is a welding seam running in the space between the headlights and the turn signals _below the bumper_ - the massive US bumpers prevent an unhindered sight.
Sunroof frame - open the sunroof and look into the dark frame from atop
All four car-jack holes below the doors
Wheel arches - often beginning rust is covered by chromed wheel arch trim
Doors, open them, look carefully under them, often rust is where you can not see it easily towards the front bumpers (to door hinges resp. A- pillars) resp. towards the front doors (to door hinges resp. A- pillars)
Station wagons - rear door, especially lower part
Engine compartment, welding seams on the wheel houses
Engine compartment, where the hood hinges are, often much dirt etc. accumulated
Little area between rear doors and rear wheel arches, down to the low chrome/plastic trim
Paint, sometimes the clearcoat of metallic paints peels off
And NO, these cars are _not_ prone to rust, but they are now nearly 20 to nearly 30 years old.
Another typical weak point is the steering box, it wears so check by wiggling the steering wheel when the car stands and the engine is off
Auxiliary brake (pedal to the very left), often mechanism not working properly because seldom used with auto gearbox cars (300D Turbodiesel always has auto trans) as tranny in P blocks car
Check air condition and Tempomat (cruise control) for function
Dashboards tend to have cracks, check esp. towards the middle, to windshield
Check central locking - it is a vacuum system which also operates other things like engine shut-off, proper automatic gearbox shifting and headlight height adjustment
That's what comes into my mind spontaneously regarding typical W123 potential problems
Of course check all the other things you'd check with any older used car like brakes, radiator, tyres etc. pp.
Juergen
Juergen . - 20 Aug 2005 00:52 GMT > It would appear to be the W123 300D Turbodiesel. > My apologies, I did not know there were different models of the 300D for > a particular year, other than with/without the turbo. No apologies needed - but as these cars are different it simply is vital to know which model to talk about.
Ok, now for the W123:
The 300D Turbodiesel engine is sufficient for todays use, but it is no fast car.
Keep in mind these cars are old - so check carefully for rust.
Typical are: Front fenders, below the bumper, there is a welding seam running in the space between the headlights and the turn signals _below the bumper_ - the massive US bumpers prevent an unhindered sight.
Sunroof frame - open the sunroof and look into the dark frame from atop
All four car-jack holes below the doors
Wheel arches - often beginning rust is covered by chromed wheel arch trim
Doors, open them, look carefully under them, often rust is where you can not see it easily towards the front bumpers (to door hinges resp. A- pillars) resp. towards the front doors (to door hinges resp. B- pillars)
Station wagons - rear door, especially lower part
Engine compartment, welding seams on the wheel houses
Engine compartment, where the hood hinges are, often much dirt etc. accumulated
Little area between rear doors and rear wheel arches, down to the low chrome/plastic trim
Paint, sometimes the clearcoat of metallic paints peels off
And NO, these cars are _not_ prone to rust, but they are now nearly 20 to nearly 30 years old.
Another typical weak point is the steering box, it wears so check by wiggling the steering wheel when the car stands and the engine is off
Auxiliary brake (pedal to the very left), often mechanism not working properly because seldom used with auto gearbox cars (300D Turbodiesel always has auto trans) as tranny in P blocks car
Check air condition and Tempomat (cruise control) for function
Dashboards tend to have cracks, check esp. towards the middle, to windshield
Check central locking - it is a vacuum system which also operates other things like engine shut-off, proper automatic gearbox shifting and headlight height adjustment
That's what comes into my mind spontaneously regarding typical W123 potential problems
Of course check all the other things you'd check with any older used car like brakes, radiator, tyres etc. pp.
Juergen
Pete Stephenson - 20 Aug 2005 13:01 GMT > No apologies needed - but as these cars are different > it simply is vital to know which model to talk about. Indeed.
Update: Today I personally inspected[1] a 1992 300D (not sure of any sub-models, but it had a turbo). 198k miles, but according to the wear on the mats and pedals, it looks to be almost entirely highway miles.
Current owner says he bought it from a woman who used it almost entirely for highway driving back in 2001, and intended to ship it down to Uruguay, where he lives for a few months out of the year (gas is expensive and diesel is cheap there). Turns out that shipping is quite expensive, and one would need to pay an import tax based on the Uruguayan sale price, which is nearly double that here in the US.
According to him, he's only put about 3k miles on it since he bought it, as he drives a Volkswagen around a lot more. Car's been garaged with a cover for all that time. He says the previous owner also kept it garaged.
Body is in incredible condition, with only a few very minor dents (but no associated paint scratching or cracking -- no signs of impact either) and scuffs on the plastic of the bumper. Far less than I'd expect for a 13 year old car.
Interior looks really great too. Only problems I noted here were that the ABS light was on (seller said he'd investigate and have it repaired if necessary before the sale), and a small crack in the fake-wood trim right by the ignition, as if someone missed the keyhole with the key. As long as the ABS works, the little plastic bit doesn't concern me much. Hardly a deal-breaker -- are these pieces available on eBay? Could one just secure them with adhesive after removing the old one? All electrical, rubber, and other parts I could readily access look to be great. Lights are bright, with no flickering. Everything looks solid. The only odd things was that the oil-pressure gauge kept going between 1 and 3 depending on if I was pushing on the gas or not (is that normal?) and that the temperature gauge seemed a bit low, (~60C), even after 15 minutes on a test drive.
Engine looks to be incredibly good. No signs of being steam-cleaned, or otherwise made to appear better than it is. Normal grit and grime from an engine compartment is present, but things look clean. Hoses are supple, engine sounds good (though has a sort of metallic ticking noise when running, which I believe is normal for diesels). Transmission was smooth, and handled cruising (with and without cruise control, which worked) and strong, higher-rev acceleration on onramps. I didn't want to goose this guy's engine too hard, as it /is/ his car, but it seems to have sufficient performance for my need. He also had European-style headlights (which I like better) installed fairly recently, for reasons unknown. My friend says that it may appear that the hood had been repainted at some time, possibly by the previous owner [he made no mention of there being any trouble with the hood, even when asked specifically about any front damage]. No big deal, as it's a really professional job, if it was in fact repainted.
Externally, the tires and wheels look great -- plenty of tread, and it's the eight-hole wheels, which look really good on this car and color (dark grey finish, with lighter gray interior). Very professional looking. Suspension seems to work well -- one hardly notices cornering, and speed bumps feel smooth and barely noticeable. Definitely has a luxury car feel to it.
The guy wants $8,500, but he said he's willing to deal, and is willing for my mechanic to examine it. I can probably talk him down to $5-6k, which seems a bit more reasonable.
I like to consult with my father as a mentor in things involving Large Sums of Money. He says that having 198k on it is too much, and that it's going to fall apart at the seams. I didn't get a feeling for that at all -- everything seemed to be in top-notch working order. It sure looks that with regular maintenance the car could definitely make it another 200k, but I'll leave that to the qualified judgement of my mechanic, who has a great knack for estimating such things.
Then again, my dad says that if someone offered him the exact same Toyota Avalon he owns today, with 100k miles, service records, service performed at regular intervals, he wouldn't take it simply because of the miles on it, even if offered for a reasonable price. My folks are very much in the "buy something new" category, and rarely if ever buy used anything.
As an econ major way back in college, and as a marketer for 27 years, I trust my dad (and my mother, who also was an econ major and a VP at a major bank for several years) with financial information and decisions. Neither of them are remotely mechanically inclined, and certainly not familiar with cars. Thus, they tend to immediately reject things they don't understand.
It's my impression that Mercedes diesel engines can run in excess of 400k if maintained regularly. This car appears to be an exceptionally high-quality vehicle (and I like the 1992 body more than the 1980s-type bodies), even with 198k miles on the clock.
I have a few pictures, and can make them available upon request.
Any comments, anything in particular for to be concerned about with the 1992 series of diesels? This one has a distinctive luxury-car feel about it, and seems to be running well.
Thanks again to all for your help.
[1] And brought a friend who's more knowledgeable about such things. Two pairs of eyes, and all...
 Signature Pete Stephenson HeyPete.com
Juergen . - 20 Aug 2005 23:30 GMT > Update: Today I personally inspected[1] a 1992 300D (not sure of any > sub-models, but it had a turbo). 198k miles, but according to the wear That is a W124.
> Interior looks really great too. Only problems I noted here were that > the ABS light was on (seller said he'd investigate and have it repaired That can have different reasons.
A _quick fix_ is to remove the warning light (little bulb) from the instrument cluster... ==:-((
> if necessary before the sale), and a small crack in the fake-wood trim > right by the ignition, as if someone missed the keyhole with the key. As That is no fake-wood, but real wood (very thin verneer, then covered with clearcoat).
> long as the ABS works, the little plastic bit doesn't concern me much. > Hardly a deal-breaker -- are these pieces available on eBay? Could one > just secure them with adhesive after removing the old one? All You can even get it new from Mercedes.
> electrical, rubber, and other parts I could readily access look to be > great. Lights are bright, with no flickering. Everything looks solid. > The only odd things was that the oil-pressure gauge kept going between 1 > and 3 depending on if I was pushing on the gas or not (is that normal?) If cold it has to stay at maximum (3 bar) in idle.
The warmer the oil gets the lower gets the needle - 1 seems a bit low to me, I'd expect 1,5. But this also has to do with environmental temperature and oil thickness as well as oil age.
> and that the temperature gauge seemed a bit low, (~60C), even after 15 > minutes on a test drive. Yes, seems a bit low to me, I'd expect ca. 80 C.
However, the W124 suffers from different problems than the W123, typical W124 problems are:
- Sunroof not working (properly), needs new switch
- Ignition lock not working smoothly (wears relatively fast when the car key is on a ring with heavy other things)
- windshield wiper system working too slow, which means worn which then means many $$$!
- radiator necks made from plastic(!) may break, loosing water can mean engine dead
> unknown. My friend says that it may appear that the hood had been > repainted at some time, possibly by the previous owner [he made no > mention of there being any trouble with the hood, even when asked > specifically about any front damage]. No big deal, as it's a really > professional job, if it was in fact repainted. That would also explain the changes headlights
So look carefully on the car's front (and in engine compartment and also below car) for any signs of accident
> looking. Suspension seems to work well -- one hardly notices cornering, > and speed bumps feel smooth and barely noticeable. Definitely has a > luxury car feel to it. Rear axle is a relatively complicated design - the arms can wear out, have their rubber bases checked
> The guy wants $8,500, but he said he's willing to deal, and is willing > for my mechanic to examine it. I can probably talk him down to $5-6k, Have your mechanic car checked _thoroughly_!!
I'd let him do a cylinder compression test, too: With new diesel engine the figure should be 465 psi, minimum should be 260 psi.
> which seems a bit more reasonable. Not living in the US I can not comment on the price.
> I like to consult with my father as a mentor in things involving Large > Sums of Money. He says that having 198k on it is too much, and that it's [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > 200k, but I'll leave that to the qualified judgement of my mechanic, who > has a great knack for estimating such things. Yes, if in doubt trust your mechanic.
I once drove a W124 300D NON-Turbo (109 PS) for a year or so and it had engine and auto trans overhauled at ca. 550.000 km (ca. 325k mi) but was heavily used before
> Then again, my dad says that if someone offered him the exact same > Toyota Avalon he owns today, with 100k miles, service records, service > performed at regular intervals, he wouldn't take it simply because of > the miles on it, even if offered for a reasonable price. My folks are > very much in the "buy something new" category, and rarely if ever buy > used anything. The point is buying new avoids the typical problems one can have with a used car but of course it is _much_ more expensive (depriciation).
But have a look into the trunk of the Mercedes W124: The trunk lid hinge springs have two holes - In case ever the trunk lid hinge springs weaken you can move them from the one hole to the other (to hole 2, it is closer to you if you are standing behind the car - personally I have never sean any private owned W124 where it was necessary to change from hole 1 to hole 2). And now look at your dad's Toyota Avalon, which has gas shock absorbers for the trunk - these will fail after a certain amount of usage, means you have to buy and install new ones (ok, typical 10 to 15 years, but...)
> As an econ major way back in college, and as a marketer for 27 years, I > trust my dad (and my mother, who also was an econ major and a VP at a > major bank for several years) with financial information and decisions. > Neither of them are remotely mechanically inclined, and certainly not > familiar with cars. Thus, they tend to immediately reject things they > don't understand. Which is natural (and of course I myself am not free of that).
> It's my impression that Mercedes diesel engines can run in excess of > 400k if maintained regularly. This car appears to be an exceptionally Here in Europe the W124 diesel engines were a system (engine family OM 60X): 4-cylinder non-turbo = 200D 5-cylinder non-Turbo = 250D (200D engine block simply lengthened by 1 cylinder) 5-cylinder Turbo = 250D Turbodiesel (turbocharger added to 250D) 6-cylinder non-Turbo = 300D (200D engine block simply lengthened by 2 cylinders) 6-cylinder Turbo = 300D Turbodiesel (turbocharger added to 300D)
Since the mid-eighties and for more than a decade W124 were _the_ Taxi cab standard in Germany (and in other European countries, too) and some of them collected more than 1 million km (600+k mi) without engine and trans overhaul (and just yesterday I noticed on a major taxi stand that there were still some W124 around).
> high-quality vehicle (and I like the 1992 body more than the 1980s-type > bodies), even with 198k miles on the clock. In a number of ways (rust, passive safety) the W124 body is superior to the body of the predecessor W123.
> I have a few pictures, and can make them available upon request. Can you put them somewhere on the net?
> Any comments, anything in particular for to be concerned about with the > 1992 series of diesels? This one has a distinctive luxury-car feel about > it, and seems to be running well. When the W124 series started it suffered from a wide range of problems - over the years this got better significantly and from the 1999 models on the quality is what one expects from a Mercedes.
> [1] And brought a friend who's more knowledgeable about such things. Two > pairs of eyes, and all... Yes, yes, yes, always makes sense!
> -- > Pete Stephenson > HeyPete.com Pete Stephenson - 21 Aug 2005 01:08 GMT > > Interior looks really great too. Only problems I noted here were that > > the ABS light was on (seller said he'd investigate and have it repaired [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > A _quick fix_ is to remove the warning light > (little bulb) from the instrument cluster... ==:-(( Heh. That would be bad...the light comes on normally when the car is started, but is supposed to turn off shortly thereafter, right? If he just removed it, then it wouldn't light when started. Also something I'd have the mechanic examine.
> > if necessary before the sale), and a small crack in the fake-wood trim > > right by the ignition, as if someone missed the keyhole with the key. As > > That is no fake-wood, but real wood (very thin > verneer, then covered with clearcoat). Oh, /really/? That's excellent. Any idea how much it would cost to replace the bit around the ignition?
> > long as the ABS works, the little plastic bit doesn't concern me much. > > Hardly a deal-breaker -- are these pieces available on eBay? Could one > > just secure them with adhesive after removing the old one? All > > You can even get it new from Mercedes. Really?
> > electrical, rubber, and other parts I could readily access look to be > > great. Lights are bright, with no flickering. Everything looks solid. > > The only odd things was that the oil-pressure gauge kept going between 1 > > and 3 depending on if I was pushing on the gas or not (is that normal?) > > If cold it has to stay at maximum (3 bar) in idle. Ok, I didn't notice it when it was cold, so I can't make any sort of judgement.
> The warmer the oil gets the lower gets the needle - > 1 seems a bit low to me, I'd expect 1,5. > But this also has to do with environmental > temperature and oil thickness as well as oil > age. Well, maybe it didn't get as low as 1...maybe 1.5, I suppose. I just wasn't sure if the fluctuation was normal.
> > and that the temperature gauge seemed a bit low, (~60C), even after 15 > > minutes on a test drive. > > Yes, seems a bit low to me, I'd expect ca. 80 C. The owner mentioned something about how would could adjust how much the cooling system worked, depending on local climate. Presumably in colder areas, you'd want the engine to run a bit warmer (relative to the air temperature), and in warmer weather you'd want it to run cooler. I have no idea about this...that's beyond my realm of knowledge.
> However, the W124 suffers from different problems > than the W123, typical W124 problems are: > > - Sunroof not working (properly), needs new switch The sunroof worked fine, both forward-and-back and up-and-down. I made sure to check.
> - Ignition lock not working smoothly (wears relatively > fast when the car key is on a ring with heavy other > things) Didn't notice any problems -- he just had a little key-fob made from plastic.
> - windshield wiper system working too slow, which > means worn which then means many $$$! Didn't test them. It doesn't rain much in California, so I can't imagine it'd wear that much.
> - radiator necks made from plastic(!) may break, > loosing water can mean engine dead I didn't notice any flaws, but I didn't do a real up-close-and-personal examination on the radiator.
> > unknown. My friend says that it may appear that the hood had been > > repainted at some time, possibly by the previous owner [he made no [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > engine compartment and also below car) for any > signs of accident Agreed. There didn't seem to be any damage, and the bumper had the original finish. No damage at all anywhere in the engine compartment. I didn't even notice any difference in paint -- is it possible that it may have differed ever so slightly from the roof color after 200k miles of covering a running engine?
> > looking. Suspension seems to work well -- one hardly notices cornering, > > and speed bumps feel smooth and barely noticeable. Definitely has a [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > the arms can wear out, have their rubber bases > checked *makes a note*
> > The guy wants $8,500, but he said he's willing to deal, and is willing > > for my mechanic to examine it. I can probably talk him down to $5-6k, > > Have your mechanic car checked _thoroughly_!! I fully intend to have the mechanic check it out very thoroughly. If I could offer a little bit more for an even MORE thorough check, I'd have no problem.
> I'd let him do a cylinder compression test, too: > With new diesel engine the figure should be > 465 psi, minimum should be 260 psi. Noted. Thanks.
> > which seems a bit more reasonable. > > Not living in the US I can not comment on the price. Fair enough.
> > I like to consult with my father as a mentor in things involving Large > > Sums of Money. He says that having 198k on it is too much, and that it's [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > Yes, if in doubt trust your mechanic. Well, normally I don't really trust the shmucks at the local Honda dealership...but this Mercedes shop guy is a trusted man, and runs an excellent business. He has earned my trust.
> > Then again, my dad says that if someone offered him the exact same > > Toyota Avalon he owns today, with 100k miles, service records, service [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > one can have with a used car but of course it is > _much_ more expensive (depriciation). Agreed.
> But have a look into the trunk of the Mercedes W124: > The trunk lid hinge springs have two holes - In case [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > buy and install new ones (ok, typical 10 to 15 years, > but...) Indeed.
> > As an econ major way back in college, and as a marketer for 27 years, I > > trust my dad (and my mother, who also was an econ major and a VP at a [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > Which is natural (and of course I myself am not > free of that). Me neither. I just try to avoid making judgement calls when I have little to no knowledge on a vehicle or situation. I'll seek out the counsel of others (such as those in this group), do research, and examine things personally before I'll make comments.
He's under the impression that any engine that reaches 200k is worthless, worn out, and should not be trusted at all. One of my army buddies, who knows a lot about diesels said that with a turbo-diesel properly maintained, it's not uncommon to get more than 400k miles, and in some cases double that out of them. This car appears to have been properly maintained in all respects, with only the most mild of scuffings on the plastic parts of the bumper, which is normal for a car of that age and not a problem at all.
> > It's my impression that Mercedes diesel engines can run in excess of > > 400k if maintained regularly. This car appears to be an exceptionally [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > lengthened by 2 cylinders) > 6-cylinder Turbo = 300D Turbodiesel (turbocharger added to 300D) Hmm. He said that it was a five-cylinder, and I could clearly see the turbocharger and the air intake on the front-right for it. However, it's listed on his AutoTrader.com listing as a 300D. Hmm.
> Since the mid-eighties and for more than a decade W124 > were _the_ Taxi cab standard in Germany (and in other > European countries, too) and some of them collected more > than 1 million km (600+k mi) without engine and trans > overhaul (and just yesterday I noticed on a major taxi > stand that there were still some W124 around). Jeeez. That's impressive.
> > I have a few pictures, and can make them available upon request. > > Can you put them somewhere on the net? Certainly. They are available at the following URL: http://photobucket.com/albums/y170/heypete/Car/MercedesMenloPark/
Alas, I didn't take more photographs as the battery was low.
I've looked on Google for other 1992 300D series vehicles, and the headlights look the same, only that these seem to have mini-wipers on them.
The slight swirls in the finish are due to waxing, I'm sure, and are not noticeable (or offensive) when looking at the car. A combination of the flash and sun reflecting seems to have caused them to be emphasized. I cannot discern any damage to the front, nor can I perceive that the hood is even the slightest difference in color. Unfortunately, my friend only mentioned it AFTER we left the place...
> > Any comments, anything in particular for to be concerned about with the > > 1992 series of diesels? This one has a distinctive luxury-car feel about [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > significantly and from the 1999 models on the quality > is what one expects from a Mercedes. Hmm. Well, since this is a 1992 with 198k miles on it, can I assume that most of the bugs have been shaken out, so to speak? If it's survived this long with the original engine and transmission, surely any minor issues have been detected and/or resolved, right?
It certainly seems like a high-quality automobile, though I'm curious about how much maintenance costs would cost me on an annual basis?
> > [1] And brought a friend who's more knowledgeable about such things. Two > > pairs of eyes, and all... > > Yes, yes, yes, always makes sense! Agreed.
 Signature Pete Stephenson HeyPete.com
theref - 21 Aug 2005 02:40 GMT Sorry for top posting but a 1992 300D in American market is NOT a turbo. It is NA.
>> Update: Today I personally inspected[1] a 1992 300D (not sure of any >> sub-models, but it had a turbo). 198k miles, but according to the wear [quoted text clipped - 183 lines] >> Pete Stephenson >> HeyPete.com Pete Stephenson - 21 Aug 2005 04:59 GMT > Sorry for top posting but a 1992 300D in American market is NOT a turbo. It > is NA. NA?
Not sure what that means.
If you look at <http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y170/heypete/Car/MercedesMenloPark/IMG_ 1086.jpg>, you can clearly see the intake grill on the side for the turbo.
Also, Edmunds.com describes it as a "Turbo Diesel" for that particular year.
 Signature Pete Stephenson HeyPete.com
CaptainW116 - 21 Aug 2005 05:15 GMT theref - 21 Aug 2005 20:00 GMT NA-Normally Aspirated
Pete The one picture of the engine is inconclusive because it does not show the passenger side of the engine where the turbo lives on those models that come so equipped. The slots forward of the wheel are not indicative of a turbo. After the problems with the trap oxidizer on the 1987 300D (W124), the 1987 300TD (W124 wagon), the 86/87 300 SDL (W126) models, MB did not import another turbocharged diesel for quite a while after 1992.
These models used various versions of the OM603.9xx engine. The ceramic trap oxidizer which was supposed to burn up exhaust particulates instead tended to clog. MB replaced them and in some cases the turbos and exhaust systems that had been ruined because of them. These engines also had a problem with heads and head gaskets if overheated. That is why my 1987 300D had a factory crate engine installed at 200Kmi.
Later models use the OM606 engine. Some NA and some with turbo.
Still, except for the hood that looks like a pretty clean specimen. I especially like that color and that interior.
>> Sorry for top posting but a 1992 300D in American market is NOT a turbo. >> It [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > Also, Edmunds.com describes it as a "Turbo Diesel" for that particular > year. Pete Stephenson - 21 Aug 2005 20:05 GMT > The one picture of the engine is inconclusive because it does not show the > passenger side of the engine where the turbo lives on those models that come > so equipped. The slots forward of the wheel are not indicative of a turbo. > After the problems with the trap oxidizer on the 1987 300D (W124), the 1987 > 300TD (W124 wagon), the 86/87 300 SDL (W126) models, MB did not import > another turbocharged diesel for quite a while after 1992. According to Edmunds.com, the only 300-series diesels in 1992 were turbocharged diesels. There is no mention of naturally-aspirated diesels on their site for that year. Similarly, the owner of the vehicle pointed out the turbocharger, and said repeatedly that the car has a turbo. My diesel-savvy friend also confirmed this.
> These models used various versions of the OM603.9xx engine. The ceramic > trap oxidizer which was supposed to burn up exhaust particulates instead > tended to clog. MB replaced them and in some cases the turbos and exhaust > systems that had been ruined because of them. These engines also had a > problem with heads and head gaskets if overheated. That is why my 1987 300D > had a factory crate engine installed at 200Kmi. Hmm. Something more for me to look at. Interesting.
> Later models use the OM606 engine. Some NA and some with turbo. > > Still, except for the hood that looks like a pretty clean specimen. I > especially like that color and that interior. *nods* The color and interior go really well together. The car looks quite classy and very well-maintained. I'm trying to negotiate a time that would work for both the seller, myself, and the mechanic for an inspection.
Assuming the car's been properly maintained throughout its life, do you think it reasonable to expect another 200k miles out of this vehicle (total of around 400k)? I wouldn't mind buying a high-mileage vehicle if it is well-built, well-maintained, and will last for years to come.
 Signature Pete Stephenson HeyPete.com
theref - 21 Aug 2005 22:03 GMT >> The one picture of the engine is inconclusive because it does not show >> the [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] >> 300TD (W124 wagon), the 86/87 300 SDL (W126) models, MB did not import >> another turbocharged diesel for quite a while after 1992. I stand corrected. See: http://home.hiwaay.net/~gbf/mbmodels.html Note that MB resurrected the 5 cylinder OM602 engine with substantially less power than the OM 603 engine. OM603 in 87 produced 148HP vs OM602 in 92 which produced 121HP.
> According to Edmunds.com, the only 300-series diesels in 1992 were > turbocharged diesels. There is no mention of naturally-aspirated diesels [quoted text clipped - 27 lines] > (total of around 400k)? I wouldn't mind buying a high-mileage vehicle if > it is well-built, well-maintained, and will last for years to come. theref - 22 Aug 2005 04:41 GMT >> The one picture of the engine is inconclusive because it does not show >> the [quoted text clipped - 38 lines] > (total of around 400k)? I wouldn't mind buying a high-mileage vehicle if > it is well-built, well-maintained, and will last for years to come. I do not have the W124 part number for a crystal ball. YMMV. The car will have many issues other than just the viability of the engine. Front end, AC, transmission, steering box, wheel bearings will likely go before the engine has a problem. You then have to make an economic decision long before the engine is an issue.
Pete Stephenson - 22 Aug 2005 05:10 GMT > I do not have the W124 part number for a crystal ball. YMMV. Quite literally, huh? :)
> The car will have many issues other than just the viability of the > engine. Front end, AC, transmission, steering box, wheel bearings > will likely go before the engine has a problem. You then have to > make an economic decision long before the engine is an issue. Indeed. The owner says the AC needs to be recharged a bit, it blows cool air, but not cold air. Not a big deal.
As for the rest of them, I would assume that a qualified mechanic would be able to identify potential problems before they occurred and alert me to any mechanical issues like that...or are some of these parts in sealed, non-inspectable units?
Cheer!
 Signature Pete Stephenson HeyPete.com
Martin Joseph - 22 Aug 2005 05:30 GMT >> I do not have the W124 part number for a crystal ball. YMMV. > [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > Indeed. The owner says the AC needs to be recharged a bit, it blows > cool air, but not cold air. Not a big deal. HAHA your funny, you should probably stick with Honda.
Marty
Pete Stephenson - 22 Aug 2005 05:56 GMT > HAHA your funny, you should probably stick with Honda. Why do you say that?
 Signature Pete Stephenson HeyPete.com
Martin Joseph - 22 Aug 2005 18:58 GMT >> HAHA your funny, you should probably stick with Honda. > > Why do you say that? Because of your quote:
" The owner says the AC needs to be recharged a bit, it blows cool air, but not cold air. Not a big deal."
Maybe you should take a look at the climate control service manual for the car in question. Mercedes cars are not simple and problems like the above often are a bigger deal to resolve then you might imagine.
If you were satisfied with the feel of your Honda, you don't want a mercedes.
Marty
Pete Stephenson - 22 Aug 2005 19:45 GMT > Because of your quote: > [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > the car in question. Mercedes cars are not simple and problems like > the above often are a bigger deal to resolve then you might imagine. I will, of course, have the car inspected by a competent mechanic. The owner of the vehicle indicated that the air conditioning works (and it does), but that it likely needs to be recharged.
It may simply need a recharge (it has, after all, operated for 13 years, perhaps not continuously, but still), or there may be something more serious. Only a detailed inspection will determine that.
> If you were satisfied with the feel of your Honda, you don't want a mercedes. If I /were/ satisfied with my Honda, I wouldn't be considering a Mercedes. There are numerous reasons (which I've listed previously) that lead me to want to sell the Honda and buy this Mercedes. The fact that the Mercedes is a solid, reliable, and robust vehicle is among those reasons.
 Signature Pete Stephenson HeyPete.com
trader4@optonline.net - 23 Aug 2005 18:37 GMT "If I /were/ satisfied with my Honda, I wouldn't be considering a Mercedes. There are numerous reasons (which I've listed previously) that lead me to want to sell the Honda and buy this Mercedes. The fact that the Mercedes is a solid, reliable, and robust vehicle is among those reasons. "
>From a reliability stanpoint, I'd take a two year old Honda over a 13 year old MB with 200K miles on it any day. Don't get me wrong. I have a 1980 300SD with 115,000 miles on it. It's been a great car. But there is no question that the typical two year old Honda is a more reliable car than my car or the one you're looking at. As I pointed out before, there are various things that just start to go on these cars over time. For example, I went to Europe for 2 weeks and left the car parked at JFK. It was super hot weather much of that time and when I returned the dashboard clock which had worked perfectly till then was kaput. I think it's likely the heat got to it. Now in my case, I work on cars myself and I can pull the dash cluster, find one on ebay, and replace it, so it won't cost too much. But how prepared are you to do that? Or will you just leave it not working and be satisfied. Or will you take it to a shop where it could cost quite a bit to have it done?
As someone else pointed out, the AC leak, is a good example. It could be a simple fill valve leaking. Or it could be the compressor. Or even worse, it could be a leak in the evaporator buried in the dash. The guy told you it needs recharging, but that could mean once every 3 years or 3 times a year. The point is, all kinds of little things can start to go with a 13 year old 200K car that can make it annoying, even if the major components like the engine, drive train, etc. are still in fine shape.
I'm not saying don't buy the car. I'm just saying if you're coming from a 2 year old Honda, you may be in for a big disappointment, depending on what your expectations are.
Dori A Schmetterling - 23 Aug 2005 18:51 GMT Yes. I am great Merc fan but I don't think I would recomend trading in a two-year old Honda for an old Merc either, even taking into account the drawbacks of the Honda. If I really wanted to be shot of my Honda I would look at something newer. In the US you don't have the option of an A-class, but what about a C-class. Or another brand?
Or talk to Bill Ditmire if you are anywhere near New Jersey: http://www.ditmire.com/LftNav_sales.html
DAS
For direct contact replace nospam with schmetterling ---
> "If I /were/ satisfied with my Honda, I wouldn't be considering a > Mercedes. There are numerous reasons (which I've listed previously) > that > lead me to want to sell the Honda and buy this Mercedes. The fact that > the Mercedes is a solid, reliable, and robust vehicle is among those > reasons. " [...]
Pete Stephenson - 23 Aug 2005 22:53 GMT > If I really wanted to be shot of my Honda I would > look at something newer. The newer vehicles are out of my price range. I'm limited by the amount of money the Honda would fetch.
> In the US you don't have the option of an A-class, > but what about a C-class. Or another brand? I don't know much about the dozens of different classes and models of cars on the market today. I was looking for an affordable diesel, preferably made by Mercedes (they make excellent engines), for less than $10,000. This particular vehicle happens to fit my requirements nicely.
In addition to logical reasons such as finances, reliability, etc., there's also the abstract concept of physical appeal: The 300D looks /stunning/, at least to me. It's a very classy-looking car, and has substance to it. Far more than any modern car (even modern Mercedes) like a Honda or Toyota. This has some appeal to me.
That said, I try to place most of my decision-making votes on the "logical reasons" instead of the "Oooh, Shiny!" factor.
Even if there's some parts that have to be repaired or replaced in the first year or two, I consider myself to be ahead of the game -- the Honda, while being mechanically reliable, has been very expensive to keep in good repair due to repeated body damage (only one minor fender-bender was my fault), scratched paint/finish, and sensitivity to road conditions like rocks and other small debris. I would much rather have a vehicle that I could replace many parts myself, rather than having the car taken into a professional paint-shop to paint it well (something which I lack the knowledge, skill, and equipment to do).
> Or talk to Bill Ditmire if you are anywhere near New Jersey: > http://www.ditmire.com/LftNav_sales.html Sounds like the place to go if I were there. Alas, I'm in California, on the opposite side of the country.
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Pete Stephenson - 23 Aug 2005 22:45 GMT > But how prepared are you to do that? Or will you just leave it not > working and be satisfied. Or will you take it to a shop where it > could cost quite a bit to have it done? If it's something relatively simple, like changing out a clock, not a problem. I need to replace the right power mirror assembly on my Honda -- after a low-speed impact a few months ago, a critical part broke and fell off. Now the whole module needs to be changed.
For something exceedingly minor (i.e. a minor lightbulb burnt out, and has no real status associated with it), I could live with it. No big deal.
For major things, I'd definitely take it to an expert. I'll eat humble pie and know when something's out of my league.
> As someone else pointed out, the AC leak, is a good example. It > could be a simple fill valve leaking. Or it could be the compressor. [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > annoying, even if the major components like the engine, drive train, > etc. are still in fine shape. Good point. Something I'd ask the mechanic about -- perhaps he could look for a leak, or what? Maybe the owner hasn't recharged the AC in several years and it simply is time for it? I'll find out soon.
> I'm not saying don't buy the car. I'm just saying if you're coming > from a 2 year old Honda, you may be in for a big disappointment, > depending on what your expectations are. Completely understood. I am expecting a comfortable, reasonably powerful car with a backseat and trunk (which I currently don't have). The car must run on diesel. If I can get 50k-100k out of the car before it goes kaput, I'll be satisfied. That's 2-4 years of driving for me. I'm looking for a vehicle with a strong and rugged body and frame. There's a zillion little paint chips on the Honda from the most infintesimal of impacts. Having to repaint my vehicle every 4-5 years is absurd. The Mercedes paint has survived 13 years, and still looks better than my 2-year-old Honda.
I want a vehicle that I can do some tinkering with under the hood without fear of violating a warranty. If the car needs new injectors, then I'll go to the auto parts store, buy the right ones, and put them in myself. New fuel filter? Same thing. With the Honda, there's too many electronics and components packed into an extremely small engine compartment. With the Mercedes, there's well-defined parts in a large compartment with easy access. I should be able to handle most of the minor work.
 Signature Pete Stephenson HeyPete.com
Martin Joseph - 24 Aug 2005 18:57 GMT I think for about $5000 you should be able to find a very, very nice 300D with MUCH less then 250K miles.
I am driving a 1986 190e for over a year now, which set me back about $2700. In addition I needed tires ($400), serpentine belt tensioner ($75 from boneyard), and various regular maintenance stuffs ($400?).
The car feels very solid on the road and has performed flawlessly for me. I have no regrets about buying it, or paying quite a bit IMO for an older vehicle. It had 107K miles on it at the time of purchase, and has about 120K now.
My car still has some minor issues (left rear power window, spotty AC, door panel warpage etc.).
These are not issues to me for the most part, although if I find time I do hope to rectify some of them...
Don't rush into a car. Look for vehicles that are being sold by private owners. Find an owner who you like and get the idea they understand and care about service.
Good Luck, marty
cp - 20 Aug 2005 07:45 GMT You're back! Where you been??
cp
Juergen . - 20 Aug 2005 23:46 GMT Hi cp,
> You're back! Where you been?? on a longer holiday trip (and it really is _not_ true I was arrested by police for still driving a W123 and refusing to buy a newer car... ;-)))) ) plus also _so_ busy with so many other things.
Kind regards
Juergen (but indeed time of driving W123 is coming to an end after 22 years - do I have to move to the newsgroup alt.auto.volkswagen then? ;-) )
cp - 21 Aug 2005 05:26 GMT > on a longer holiday trip (and it really is _not_ > true I was arrested by police for still driving > a W123 and refusing to buy a newer car... ;-)))) ) > plus also _so_ busy with so many other things.
:-))) believable, the polizei could have mistaken you for Ukrainian smugglers :-)
> Juergen > (but indeed time of driving W123 is coming to > an end after 22 years - do I have to move to > the newsgroup alt.auto.volkswagen then? ;-) ) noooooo!!
Juergen . - 23 Aug 2005 00:37 GMT > > on a longer holiday trip (and it really is _not_ > > true I was arrested by police for still driving > > a W123 and refusing to buy a newer car... ;-)))) ) > > plus also _so_ busy with so many other things. > :-))) believable, the polizei could have mistaken you for Ukrainian smugglers :-) Oh no, definitely not - those folks drive newer cars... ;-)
> > Juergen > > (but indeed time of driving W123 is coming to > > an end after 22 years - do I have to move to > > the newsgroup alt.auto.volkswagen then? ;-) ) > noooooo!! That's good - as there is no such group... ;-)
Juergen
cp - 23 Aug 2005 04:42 GMT >> :-))) believable, the polizei could have mistaken you for Ukrainian smugglers :-) > > Oh no, definitely not - those folks drive newer cars... ;-) Well, at least the ones just starting out 8-)
>> > Juergen >> > (but indeed time of driving W123 is coming to [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > That's good - as there is no such group... ;-) alright, when there's a group, you get one!
cp
Dori A Schmetterling - 21 Aug 2005 22:22 GMT Had enough of Benzes?
DAS
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> an end after 22 years - do I have to move to > the newsgroup alt.auto.volkswagen then? ;-) ) Pete Stephenson - 21 Aug 2005 23:03 GMT Does anyone here have any idea how much ongoing service and maintenance of a Mercedes is?
Specifically a 1992 300D turbodiesel with 198k miles, as mentioned earlier in the thread.
Assume no catastrophic engine/transmission damage is present and the vehicle has had proper service at the designated intervals. I'm looking for information about ongoing service, such as oil changes, filter changes, etc. in an attempt to budget myself to have an adequate amount of money available for maintenance for at least the next year.
Can some of the work be done at home without too much trouble or mess? I don't mind turning wrenches if it'll save me a few hundred bucks, as long as it's not something too major.
Cheers!
 Signature Pete Stephenson HeyPete.com
Juergen . - 23 Aug 2005 00:45 GMT > "Juergen ." <jaguare@bigfoot.com> wrote in message > > an end after 22 years - do I have to move to > > the newsgroup alt.auto.volkswagen then? ;-) ) > Had enough of Benzes? No, but I need a more practical private car for in-town driving, a station wagon which also blends better into any situation and social environment than e.g. an MB E-class wagon of the late W210 or even W211 series.
So maybe I will change the W123 sedan for a - yuck! - Volkswagen...
Juergen
Dori A Schmetterling - 23 Aug 2005 14:03 GMT I don't quite get that as Mercs are very common. Aah, not exclusive anough?
Try an Alfa 156 or 159 estate for looks. I think they are calling them Sportwagon now http://www.alfaromeo.com/cgi-bin/pbrand.dll/ALFAROMEO_COM/models/models.jsp
They depreciate so quickly (in Britain, at least) I am sure you can pick up a two-year-old one for a song...
DAS
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> for in-town driving, a station wagon which > also blends better into any situation and [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > Juergen Juergen . - 24 Aug 2005 05:14 GMT > I don't quite get that as Mercs are very common. > Aah, not exclusive anough? No, the other way round: Too expensive (looking) for certain areas of the city, too much vandalism and theft. A thing (note: I said _thing_ and not _car_... ;-)) ) like a VW Golf blends in much better there.
> Try an Alfa 156 or 159 estate for looks. I think they are calling them > Sportwagon now > http://www.alfaromeo.com/cgi-bin/pbrand.dll/ALFAROMEO_COM/models/models.jsp > They depreciate so quickly (in Britain, at least) I am sure you can pick up > a two-year-old one for a song... Alfa is not my cup of tea...
Juergen
Dori A Schmetterling - 24 Aug 2005 11:48 GMT Ever driven one?
Had a 147 JTD (1.9 l turbodiesel) for two weeks while on holiday in Italy recently. I had had one last year, so I asked for it again.
Mind you, I am not sure I would like to own one, what with its still slightly iffy reputation for reliability.
In my eyes the 147 is the prettiest in its class, and the larger estate is one of the most attractive in its segment.
DAS
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> Alfa is not my cup of tea... > > Juergen
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