Well, radio interference is a good reason to replace plug wires etc.
One thought: if the static is engine speed related and is dense - almost
like a curtain of sound - it could be from non-resistor spark plugs.
OTOH, if it's a staccato plunk plunk plunk then one ignition wire is
very very suspect.
Some shops replace the coils as a matter of course - of course, it's not
their money and adds to the bill.
Bosch or Beru if you proceed.
Tom
Two items:
#1 Since I've not purchased the wires as yet, the plugs are a good
first item.
Simple. The way I need it. :)
(If this was software, I'd dig right in. But hardware, that takes more
time.)
I have the 6 Bosch plugs ready to go.
Non-resistor plugs? Do they still exist apart from lawn mowers and
chain saws?
The other night I took a look @ the wiring & noticed that there are 3
coils, each for 2 plugs. Should the plastic plug connectors just pop
up, off the plug, or is there something else that needs to be done?
Special tools?
(I ask because, with my recently-deceased '91 Camry, the boot on the
base of the plug connector had a penchant for maintaining a vacuum on
the plug, making it difficult to remove. Having owned it for 193k
miles [of its 291k life] I only had to do this twice. But it was
notable both times.)
ALSO
#2 sig lines
So many M-B people put their model(s). (Many, it seems, own as many as
my older brother in Texas owns VWs.)
Ham people put their call signs.
Photographers (those who are very brand-loyal) add their body list.
Which should go first? :O
Collin
KC8TKA
E320/97
http://www.brendemuehl.net
T.G. Lambach - 25 Aug 2005 23:42 GMT
Re: Spark plug change.
Raise the hood to its full vertical position; the hood latches are
staggered so one can release one side before the other. 8-)
The engine's air intake duct needs to be moved out of the way - not
removed from the engine. Its secured by two nuts to the top of the
motor, a clamp on the air intake and the air mass meter. Use a large
blade, long screw driver on that clamp - reach under the front three air
intake runners. Unsnap both snaps (top & bottom) between the air mass
meter and the air filter's box. Wiggle the two apart - there's a rubber
"O" ring that needs to slide between the pieces.
Lift the air duct and air mass meter and fold the whole duct onto the
left side of the motor - so the top of the motor is clear. A metric
allen wrench is needed to loosen the allen bolts holding the black
plastic cover to the top of the motor. Just loosen them DON'T remove
them - their length varies - leave them in the cover and lift the cover
w/ bolts still in their holes.
Now you'll see the three coils and wires to the other three plugs. The
plug wires just pull off with some effort using your fingers. The coils
are mounted above the other three spark plugs and are held in place by
screws. You must remove the screws to lift the coil from the spark plug.
As you remove the old sparkers note their color - it's a reasonable
symptom of the engine's air / fuel ratio. (I found a wet plug indicating
a leaking fuel injector.) The new Bosch dual tips are pre gapped so just
eye their ground contacts to ensure they are not bent out of place and
carefully install them so they don't drop into their tube. Tighten to 19
ft lbs.
Reinstall the coils by first holding them in place and then tightening
their hold down screws. The other three wires are simply pushed firmly
onto their respective spark plugs. Check everything and replace the
black plastic cover, tighten the allen bolts to snug. Replace the air
duct - loosely attach it to the air intake, then onto the two studs atop
the engine and finally connect it to the air filter box. (Moisten the
rubber "O" ring on reassembly.) Check the clamp, top nuts and snap clips.
As a point of interest the coils simultaneously fire both their spark
plugs even though one of the two cylinders is 180 degrees from position
to use that spark - a moot spark. So three coils serve six cylinders! ;-)
Have fun.
Tom
Cheesehead - 26 Aug 2005 12:33 GMT
Plugs replaced.
I'd already picked up a set of Platinum 4 plugs.
They went in easily.
More easily than putting plugs into my previous Toyota 2 liter.
Radio interference was reduced but not eliminated.
I still have to find that steenkin' antenna preamp.
(Maybe next weekend I'll spend time on it.)
The wife came home as I was finishing up.
She's anticipating that I'll spend time on my car but not on her car.
(97 Camry V6) She could use a tune-up. Her car also. :)
I told her that the Camry goes to a shop for a tuneup. I don't have
the ratchet extensions and flex thingies to get to the back plugs.
It's a good reason to not purchase a transverse V6.
Collin
KC8TKA
E320/97
mcbrue - 27 Aug 2005 05:11 GMT
Hey there ole TGL ! My take on the new S Klass is that it will be out
this fall. If they delay it, I will have to go to the Kudzu brand cause
the ole S Klass is on its last legs - er - wheels. I am hoping that it
does not have that squashed down look the ganster style Chrysler 300
and the MB CLS have - they look like some giant came along and pushed
down on the roof and made the windows all squashed down and narrow
looking. And then too it has to be a lot bigger. The post-2000s are
all too small with short seat tops and the sides press on your
shoulders like a neon probably does.
mcbrue anticipatingly under the bridge in the trailer down by the river
96 S420
greek_philosophizer - 27 Aug 2005 14:56 GMT
The description of the new S sounds attractive.
It is somewhat bigger. It will have some nice
options too. The night vision display sounds
worthwhile.
Maybe they should also have
optional seats for Americans too.
.
Martin Joseph - 27 Aug 2005 18:27 GMT
> The description of the new S sounds attractive.
> It is somewhat bigger. It will have some nice
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>
> .
"business class" you mean for our fat a.ses?
LOL.
Marty
PS Mcbrue's opinion of the new S class is long awaited here...