How did you check for a spark at the coil wire?  If you disconnect the
coil wire from the distributor and place it near a ground, you should
only get one spark (if that) right when you turn the ignition on.  It
won't spark continously as you're cranking the engine.

First off, check the battery voltage.  It should be close to 12.6V.
Even a reading as low as 12V means that the battery is
half-discharged.  When you're cranking the engine, the voltage is
going to drop down even further, and some computer-controlled
ignitions won't produce a spark below a certain voltage, even if the
battery is still strong enough to turn the starter.

If the battery voltage isn't at least 12.5V, I'd put it on a charger
until it's fully-charged.

Assuming the battery's good, I would pull the cap and rotor and
examine the terminals inside, as well as the spring-loaded connection
between the rotor and the cap.

If that looks good, use an ohmmeter and measure the resistance of the
primary and secondary windings of the coil.  (I'm not familiar with
your exact engine, but I'm assuming the coil has a positive terminal,
a negative terminal, and the connection for the coil-to-distributor
wire.  While you're at it, measure the resistance of the wire from the
coil to the distributor - it should be significantly less than 1000
Ohms.

Disconnect all the connections to the coil, and measure the resistance
between the positive terminal and the negative terminal.  You should
get a low reading (less than three Ohms).  Make sure it's not zero,
though, because that would mean a shorted  winding (bad coil).

Next, measure the resistance between the negative terminal and the
coil output terminal (the one that leads to the distributor).  That
should be higher, somewhere between 8,000 and 20,000 Ohms.  If it's
somewhere close to that range, the coil's probably good, but a zero
reading means the secondary winding is shorted, and an infinite
reading means that the secondary winding is open.  Both of these
indicate a bad coil.

If the coil checks good, reconnect all of the wires to it, and turn
the ignition on.  Check the voltage at the postive terminal of the
coil - it should be very close to battery voltage.  If it's not, you
have a problem with the wiring to the coil.  If the positive terminal
voltage is good, then you have a problem further upstream than the
coil - maybe a computerized ignition system?

I wouldn't hurt to check all of the fuses, too.  Don't just look at
them to see if they're blown - pull each one out, check it with an
ohmmeter, and then put them back in.

Hope this helps,