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Car Forum / Mercedes-Benz Cars / January 2006

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190E...A few questions

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rokinroj@gmail.com - 04 Jan 2006 23:05 GMT
Hello to all,

I have 1989 190E 2.6 that I have recently brought back to life.  When
the water pump went out a few years ago my wife had finally had enough
and bought a new car prompting me to push this one away in the garage
for the past 2 years.  (I finally did get around to replacing that
water pump, and man was it a PITA!!.)
Anyway...prior to the water pump going out I had been battling an
intermitten stalling problem that I eventially fixed, and got it to
pass smog inspection in California, which is not that easy.

But now I notice a few distinct issues:

1.  Hard cold start.
2.  Fast idle (around 1400 rpm) while in P or N (normal 650-700 while
in gear)
3.  Strong fuel smell in the exhaust, seems to be running very rich.

I don't think I will be able to smog it this year in it's current
condition.

Does this combination of issues sound familiar to anyone?  Or should I
just treat these each as seperate issues and troubleshoot them
individually?

Thanks
Roger
T.G. Lambach - 04 Jan 2006 23:28 GMT
Others may have another idea but I suggest you consider checking the
car's "Overvoltage Protection Relay."

This devil has a fuse on its top.

Suggest you begin with the OVP relay, then, if the hard start persists,
check the "cold start system" of sensors, cold start fuel injector etc.

Don't give up, you'll figure it out - and fix it.
rokinroj@gmail.com - 06 Jan 2006 04:44 GMT
Mr. Lambach,

Thanks so much.  I always look forward to your response.

In my 190E I have a Siemens OVP (12V - 10A) - Here is what I can
verify.
- fuse is ok
- test between pins 87E and 87L reads 0 ohms (not open)
anything else that could be wrong with it that isnt exposed in these
test?

As far as the cold start/fast idle, here is what I've done (or know to
be true)
- replace all 6 plugs and plug wires
- replace cap and rotor
- idle circuit tests at .55-.6 amps at idle
- ignition system test found 45kv at the cap
- fuel pressure is holding at 3.2Bar

Thanks again for taking the time to respond.

Roger H.
T.G. Lambach - 09 Jan 2006 00:23 GMT
I'm most familiar with the older diesels and know generally about gas
engines, but not specifically their various permutations and
combinations of parts so read this as general guidance rather than
specific repair instructions.

Suggest you create a new post specifically about the Over Voltage Relay
- what it does, exactly, and specifically how one can test it.

With respect to the cold start system, basically, there is an engine
temp. sensor, a time/temperature relay and an electric valve that sprays
fuel into the intake manifold. You engine may differ in its parts but
the idea is:

1. if the engine is below a specific temp. (I believe its about 20
degrees C.) then
2. power is sent to a time / temperature relay (or similar) which is ON
for a brief period, longer when colder.
3. The electric cold start valve sprays fuel into the intake for about 5
or 10 seconds - just long enough to get the motor running.

You've changed to usual ignition parts but not touched the cold start
system. Since you're good with a test light try the plug to the cold
start valve when the engine is cold and someone briefly cranks the
starter. There should be power to that plug, if only briefly.

I hope this helps you.

Tom
T.G. Lambach - 09 Jan 2006 06:57 GMT
In the course of my "travels" on Usenet a kind soul posted this
explanation of the OVP relay. I don't know enough about electronics to
opine on its truth but you may.

The OVP relay protects the sensitive electronic circuits, i.e. your ECU
from high voltages.

It basically consists of a fuse, followed by a relay energized by a
small circuit, which has a zener diode built-in. This relay feeds the
the SRS, ECU and ABS (any others?). If the voltage goes too high, the
zener conducts, and shunts the circuit to ground, cutting out the relay,
and if very high, blows the fuse.

These relays get tired, as basically, it has to activate continuously
when the engine is running. 10 years ± is about the lifetime.

When it cuts out, your engine reverts to "dumb" mode, and won't
compensate for temp, O2, timing, etc.

SRS, ECU and ABS, that's all.  And depending on model and/or # of
systems that are protected, there are different versions of OVP relay,
between 5 - 9 pins, and 1 or 2 fuses.

A cross-cable during a jump start can easily kill this relay.
Guenter Scholz - 05 Jan 2006 02:50 GMT
EHA valve would be worth checking to see if it leaks, on the back of the
intake, a rectangular black plastic block with fuel lines going in and out

- it regulates the fuel pressure and they leak - mine did and caused similar
but not identical symptoms.

cheers. guenter

>Hello to all,
>
[quoted text clipped - 23 lines]
>Thanks
>Roger
rokinroj@gmail.com - 06 Jan 2006 05:02 GMT
Guenter,

Thanks for responding.

Do you know of any recommended test for the EHA?  I know where it is
located, just unsure how to test it.

Thanks
Roger
Guenter Scholz - 06 Jan 2006 12:48 GMT
just check around the seams to see if it is leaking gas, if not you are very
likely OK

cheers

>Guenter,
>
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>Thanks
>Roger
John McDowell - 06 Jan 2006 16:30 GMT
Roger,

There is an excellent website, 190Revolution.net
http://www.190revolution.net/forum/portal.php, that is an excellent resource
for anyone owning a late 80's early 90's Mercedes 190. Check it out.

John Mc

> Hello to all,
>
[quoted text clipped - 23 lines]
> Thanks
> Roger
 
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