Just got my car back from the mechanic. Dealer found in 3 hours what
original mechanic didn't find in three months, but that's another
story...
Turns out that I have zero compression in the number 5 cylinder. 1 & 2
are good, 3&4 are ok but 5 is not even registering. Car had been
running very well, one day it was extremely hard to start, shaking,
uneven. The mechanic, who I trusted at the time, claimed that my
injectors were worn out, and replaced all 5 of them. The engine has
~175,000 miles on it. He also said that he replaced a broken engine
mount. When I got the car back it was not shaking but was still
running very unevenly.
I'm trying to decide how much more to throw at this car. If it's just
a head gasket, I'll probably try fixing it. If the cylinder is toasted,
I'm not sure. I know that these older (1983) engines are pretty
bulletproof. I seem to have seen a fair bit of discussion about blown
head gaskets though. Is this a common problem with the 300 turbos?
How likely is it that this is the culprit?
I hate to ditch the car since the body is in wonderful shape, but I'm
just not ready to drop another couple of grand on it to rebuild the
engine either since I just dropped it in about four years ago and only
have about 15000 miles on it since then.
Any suggestions gratefully accepted.
Rochelle
Richard Sexton - 19 Jan 2006 05:48 GMT
>I hate to ditch the car since the body is in wonderful shape, but I'm
>just not ready to drop another couple of grand on it to rebuild the
Bah. Renew the head gasket and it'll do another 300K miles. Or part
it out and buy another one. What color is the interior ? :-)

Signature
Need Mercedes parts ? - http://parts.mbz.org
Richard Sexton | Mercedes stuff: http://mbz.org
1970 280SE, 72 280SE | Home page: http://rs79.vrx.net
633CSi 250SE/C 300SD | http://aquaria.net http://killi.net
Snowfire - 19 Jan 2006 18:29 GMT
Interior is brown, exterior is cream/lt. yellow. Mostly original paint,
in very good condition. Trunk has been repainted where some #@%&* jerk
took a hammer to it while it was at the mechanics.
Interior is in excellent shape. No tears, just repadded the front seat
cushions and new skin on the seat of the drivers where a broken spring
had poked through, replaced the frame too. All levers have new handles.
Car has never been wrecked. My dad bought it new, then gave it to me
12/95 when he bought E300D.
Rochelle
Dori A Schmetterling - 20 Jan 2006 17:55 GMT
I wonder if it is Weizengelb (wheat yellow) or the 'taxi cream'...
DAS
For direct contact replace nospam with schmetterling
---
[...]
> exterior is cream/lt. yellow.
[...]
T.G. Lambach - 19 Jan 2006 06:55 GMT
I've owned one of these for 25 years. If this were my car I'd:
Find another mechanic.
1. Is there any coolant loss? Coolant in the oil? (head gasket symptom)
Or oil in the coolant? (head gasket symptom)
Any leaking around #5 injector nozzle? (cracked prechamber)
2. ask the shop to remove the valve cover and check and adjust #5
cylinder's valves. It COULD be that a valve is so tight that the valve
isn't closing or that its valve spring broke, or rocker is stuck or
broke etc etc. This is a benign inquiry that won't cost much and is also
en route to 3, if that's needed. If nothing found under the valve cover
I'd consider having the #5 prechamber removed and checked, as a last
gasp possibility before removing the cylinder head. They might be able
to inspect the cylinder and valves through the prechamber cavity using a
boroscope. If it shows a horrible mess of smashed valves and piston,
stop work and find another engine.
3. Have the timing chain's stretch checked BEFORE the cylinder head is
removed so they'll KNOW the chain is either OK or ought to be replaced
upon reassembly.
4. Have the cylinder head removed. The head gasket will be revealed in
all its gore or glory and the valves exposed. One may be burned - have a
piece burned out of it (in which case you should be thankful that the
whole valve head didn't break off and smash everything to hell in there.)
If this motor was running well and suddenly fell into this state it can
be repaired without an overhaul. IMHO it's very doubtful that the piston
or the cylinder liner is affected, rather the problem is in the top -
gasket - valves - etc.
These ARE very tough and durable engines; they typically just wear out
with the rest of the car and RIP. One owner had a valve head break off
but it made a hell of racket each time the piston smashed it into the
head but that's the only one I know of.
Tiger - 19 Jan 2006 16:38 GMT
Ditto on the valve part... it is extrememly if not impossible to have one
cylinder with zero compression... do a valve adjustment first.
Ernesto - 23 Jan 2006 03:40 GMT
> I've owned one of these for 25 years. If this were my car I'd:
>
[quoted text clipped - 31 lines]
> it made a hell of racket each time the piston smashed it into the head but
> that's the only one I know of.
Very good advice! If you don't hear a bunch of metal parts beating against
each other I'd certainly investigate further. Also, if the rebuilt engine
has only 15k on it and it was done properly I'd think twice before starting
over with another car.
Snowfire - 24 Jan 2006 06:07 GMT
Just simple common sense. Something some people are remarkably short
of, however. When it comes to things mechanical, I'm a firm believer
that sounds of metal on metal are a REALLY BAD THING. Luckily, I have
not heard any of these.
The engine was not rebuilt when I dropped it into my car, but I did
have valves adjusted, timing checked, etc. It only had about 175K
miles on it, and I've only put about 15K miles on it since then.
Right now the weather is not conducive to outdoor auto work, so I'll
spend some time reading up on this particular engine and its' quirks.
Then when the temperature gets somewhere that I consider marginally
civilized, I'll know where to start poking. I truly hope that it is
something as simple as a head gasket. I do really like the car, but
was getting ready to throw in the towel after dropping just under a
grand at the mechanic and having it come back running like a paint
shaker.
Many thanks to all the folks who have written with suggestions and
advice. I'll let you all know how this turns out.
Rochelle
Chas Hurst - 19 Jan 2006 15:30 GMT
> Just got my car back from the mechanic. Dealer found in 3 hours what
> original mechanic didn't find in three months, but that's another
[quoted text clipped - 23 lines]
>
> Rochelle
The party doing the compression test should have found the source of the
compression leak. Don't make any decisions untill that is known.
I would seek out another opinion and certainly another source other than a
dealer (unless you have found the truly rare one) to do the work.
Snowfire - 19 Jan 2006 18:24 GMT
I will check for oil in coolant and vice versa. I had had some coolant
loss last summer, but I assumed that it was just getting hot and
boiling off and there was no recovery tank, which I soon rectified.
I truly think that the first mechanic was jerking me around. He did do
a nice job on the engine swap, but he took WAAAAAAY too much time.
Every time he had my car it was a minimum of a month....You don't want
to know the longest amount of time.
The valves were adjusted at the dealer, they found minor mis
adjustments, but nothing major. Nothing stuck or broken.
The car was driven less than 50 miles since it started acting up. I
really didn't want to make anything worse than it already was, on the
theory that the less damage done, the easier the repair.
It is not making any self destructive type noises, i.e. nothing sounds
as if it is either eating parts, or going to come shooting out of the
hood. It is just running unevenly.
I have the printout of the compression test that they did at the
dealer. Cylinders 1&2 show about 26 bars, 3&4, about 23 bars and 5
doesn't even register. The guy who did the compression test said he
had never seen one that low. He said that he could not be sure whether
it was a toasted head gasket or a scarred up cylinder wall.
I normally don't use the dealer for repairs $ince they tend to be
expen$ive. But when I have a real head scratcher, I will use them for
diagnosis. I have never used the service department at this dealer
before, but the parts guys have always been great, more than helpful.
Frequently giving me helpful information, and sometimes even a break on
prices <G>.
There are not too many mechanics in my area who work on diesel cars.
The ones who work on the diesel trucks, Ford, Dodge, etc. are usually
the dealers for those, so I don't see any benefit switching from one
dealer to another.
I may just wait for warmer weather, then start poking around a little.
I tend to only do emergency work when the temp is below freezing and I
can't get the car in the garage.
Thanks for the info!!!
Rochelle
Chas Hurst - 19 Jan 2006 18:48 GMT
> I have the printout of the compression test that they did at the
> dealer. Cylinders 1&2 show about 26 bars, 3&4, about 23 bars and 5
> doesn't even register. The guy who did the compression test said he
> had never seen one that low. He said that he could not be sure whether
> it was a toasted head gasket or a scarred up cylinder wall.
> Thanks for the info!!!
>
> Rochelle
Any decent technician should be able to find the exact cause of the
compression leak. If he cannot be sure, take it to some one who will be.
T.G. Lambach - 19 Jan 2006 20:03 GMT
22 - 24 BAR is the compression specification for this engine so your 1,
2, 3 & 4 cylinders are in great shape so fixing #5 will put you back on
the road with a good motor.
Unless you find evidence of a broken head gasket I suspect a burned
valve given this added information.
Since you're not in a rush to have it repaired perhaps you could make a
deal with the M-B dealer - to undertake this repair as "pick-up" work at
a reduced labor rate. Never hurts to ask.
John Glover - 20 Jan 2006 23:27 GMT
Surely a leak down test would reveal the cause of the the lack of
compression

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johnaglover@Xbtinternet.com
Please remove the X for email
> 22 - 24 BAR is the compression specification for this engine so your 1, 2,
> 3 & 4 cylinders are in great shape so fixing #5 will put you back on the
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> deal with the M-B dealer - to undertake this repair as "pick-up" work at a
> reduced labor rate. Never hurts to ask.
Richard Sexton - 24 Jan 2006 15:25 GMT
>I will check for oil in coolant and vice versa. I had had some coolant
>loss last summer, but I assumed that it was just getting hot and
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>Every time he had my car it was a minimum of a month....You don't want
>to know the longest amount of time.
I once had a guy take 3 years to rebuild a set of calipers. Maybe
he knows your guy?

Signature
Need Mercedes parts ? - http://parts.mbz.org
Richard Sexton | Mercedes stuff: http://mbz.org
1970 280SE, 72 280SE | Home page: http://rs79.vrx.net
633CSi 250SE/C 300SD | http://aquaria.net http://killi.net
Snowfire - 25 Jan 2006 00:19 GMT
I'm sure they know each other. It was 13 months on the engine swap,
and at that I had to keep prodding him with a sharp stick.
Lesson #1--NEVER tell a mechanic"I'm not in a hurry".
Rochelle