Lost Ignition Key 1984 190e

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Pintara3 - 23 Apr 2006 12:07 GMT

Hi group,
I am in Melb Australia. I have a 1984 190e . The
previous owner changed the ignition barrel , don't know why. I have
lost the only damn key I had to the ignition, so I don't think going to
MB with chasis number will help me much. I hear the barrels are hard to
replace . Can anyone tell me how I can get the barrel out. I was
thinking on trying to drill the ignition out, bit the racv guy that got
into the car for me tells me they are almost impossible to drill out.
Any feed back appreciated.

Also recently reco'd head and replaced but since I have had what I
believe to be an electrical fault. After the car has been running for
15-20 mins, Yeah before I lost the key, it just cuts out. If I wait
20-30 mins the car will start easily again. Mechanic said sounded like
fuel pump relay, so I replaced but found problem still existed. Had a
guy who proported to be onsite auto elec look told me it was the fan,
then he says he tested ignition module, ok,
then coil ok, distributor, ok, then tells me it was fuel pump.The says
the relay that I had replaced was burn't out. It was obviously he had
shorted something out. I bypassed the relay and it still does the same.
As he took these parts away to be tested they would have cooled off and
may not been in the same condition as when car stops. Any ideas I am
lost
Thanks
Graeme

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Tiger - 24 Apr 2006 16:49 GMT

Your fuel pump is bad... drawing too much electricity and burning out your
relay..

As for ignition key... try drilling out the core if you have clear access.
If not, then it is brutal... you need to stick in a good stroing screwdriver
with a hex nut so you can crank with a long wrench or simply use visegrip...
You gotta break past the locking point use brute force... until the notches
on the ignition lines up... then use two strightened big clip into the two
holes... wiggle up and down until all the way in and the lock will pop out.

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Roger Shoaf - 25 Apr 2006 05:51 GMT

> Your fuel pump is bad... drawing too much electricity and burning out your
> relay..
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> on the ignition lines up... then use two strightened big clip into the two
> holes... wiggle up and down until all the way in and the lock will pop out.

Do not listen to this advice. You will turn an expensive problem into a
very expensive problem if you do.

Signature

Roger Shoaf

If knowledge is power, and power corrupts, what does this say about the
Congress?

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Tiger - 25 Apr 2006 21:30 GMT

You got a better solution? That guy probably do not want to shell out $400
to have dealer do the job..

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Roger Shoaf - 28 Apr 2006 16:15 GMT

> You got a better solution? That guy probably do not want to shell out $400
> to have dealer do the job..

Yes the better solution would be to find a locksmith that is willing to take
on the task. Charging in with an attempt to force the lock with a
screwdriver will not only fail but is likely to cause needless damage to
other expensive parts. I know this as I am a locksmith and I have had to
cut these buggers out. If they have been attacked in the manner you
decsribe, it will take the locksmith or the mechanic more time and cost
more.

Signature

Roger Shoaf

If knowledge is power, and power corrupts, what does this say about the
Congress?

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Tiger - 28 Apr 2006 18:18 GMT

Well. I have worked on my ignition lock assembly so I have an idea on the
whole mechanism. Even if the lock is damaged in the manner I have spoken...
In the end if the tumbler section is severely damaged, you would have to
change the whole ignition lock assembly.

Since the tumbler is free to move... as long it is in accessory or run mode,
you can simply loosen the clamp, push in the locking pin and twist the whole
locking mechanism... The whole locking mechanism with new tumbler is still
about $200 total.

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Roger Shoaf - 29 Apr 2006 00:50 GMT

> Well. I have worked on my ignition lock assembly so I have an idea on the
> whole mechanism. Even if the lock is damaged in the manner I have spoken...
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> locking mechanism... The whole locking mechanism with new tumbler is still
> about $200 total.

If you would engage your brain before you type you might not look so
foolish. The OP said he lost the key. Since the key is lost, it is safe to
assume that the lock is not in the accesory or run position. The parts
prices are not really the big factor here, it is the labor to overcome one
of the best mechanical locking systems ever designed for an automobile.

Locksmith will charge his service call, and his time plus parts. This will
be cheaper than the dealer as that is the way things are.

Someone else was complaining about $50 for a duplicate key. Having no key
is a whole lot worse.

Signature

Roger Shoaf
If you are not part of the solution, you are not dissolved in the solvent.

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FYIS.org - 28 Apr 2006 16:23 GMT

> Hi group,
> I am in Melb Australia. I have a 1984 190e . The
> previous owner changed the ignition barrel , don't know why. I have
> lost the only damn key I had to the ignition, so I don't think going
> to MB with chasis number will help me much.

Find a "High Security Locksmith" who will have the MB supplies and equipment
to replace.
Try http://tinyurl.com/rvvyo

DanlK, ~~~\8-O
FYI Services Collectibles
www.FYIS.org

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