Hi all, I know that the broken radiator neck is a common problem. Seems
though that I've still got an inch or so of neck left which I've clamped
the hose onto. Is there any problem with this that I'm not aware of?
Appears to work allright.
cheers, guenter
ps if it's recomended to replace the radiator, there is often talk of oil
cooler lines in that vicinity that need to be disconnected. Is that the
case in a 300e (1989) as well? Do possible oil lines just need to be
disconnected from the radiator or actually opend?
Tiger - 14 Jun 2006 19:55 GMT
Replace the radiator... don't gamble on that neck... it will crack again.
The tranny cooling line is easy and simple...very little oil will drain out.
Richard Sexton - 15 Jun 2006 18:35 GMT
>Hi all, I know that the broken radiator neck is a common problem. Seems
>though that I've still got an inch or so of neck left which I've clamped
>the hose onto. Is there any problem with this that I'm not aware of?
>Appears to work allright.
For now. Many people have tried to repair this to no avail. The price for
failure here is high. One guy did clean it scrupulously, apply JB weld
then wrapped the whole neck in thin metal and that's worked.
But most people replace the rad. They're not too bad mail-order.
>ps if it's recomended to replace the radiator, there is often talk of oil
>cooler lines in that vicinity that need to be disconnected. Is that the
>case in a 300e (1989) as well? Do possible oil lines just need to be
>disconnected from the radiator or actually opend?
I've never had a 300E but in 108's/126's there's an oil cooler on the
side of the rad. It's a separate unit and have never heard of one failing.

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Richard Sexton | Mercedes stuff: http://mbz.org
1970 280SE, 72 280SE | Home pages: http://rs79.vrx.net
633CSi 250SE/C 300SD | http://aquaria.net http://killi.net
Roger Shoaf - 15 Jun 2006 21:07 GMT
> Hi all, I know that the broken radiator neck is a common problem. Seems
> though that I've still got an inch or so of neck left which I've clamped
> the hose onto. Is there any problem with this that I'm not aware of?
> Appears to work allright.
Guenter,
If I were going to attempt a repair, I think I would find a metal sleeve
that I could insert into the existing neck segment, then I would use a
silicone rubber adhesive to seal it neck back together again, with the piece
that broke off.
You may also put a sleeve on the outside of the repair to give added
strength.
Replacement may be a better option. But if I understand the cause of these
failures often it is the type of anti-freeze that causes the plastic to
become brittle.
If your car is equipped with an oxygen sensor be sure to select a grade of
silicone that is listed as safe for these as it is my understanding that it
does not take much vapor from the curing rubber to kill off the ox sensor.

Signature
Roger Shoaf
If knowledge is power, and power corrupts, what does this say about the
Congress?
Tiger - 16 Jun 2006 00:09 GMT
Plastic is impervious to alot of things.. what cause the breakage most of
the time is the expansion and contraction of plastic to the point it become
brittle.
Other reason for breaking is the radiator hose clamp is tightened too much
that it will hasten the process.
MTI - 16 Jun 2006 04:55 GMT
Another common cause for the breakage of the plastic radiator neck is
transmitted engine vibration due to worn or failed pneumatic motor mounts.
Richard Sexton - 16 Jun 2006 07:33 GMT
>Plastic is impervious to alot of things.. what cause the breakage most of
>the time is the expansion and contraction of plastic to the point it become
>brittle.
>
>Other reason for breaking is the radiator hose clamp is tightened too much
>that it will hasten the process.
Randy Steele used to posit that it was the vibration combined with heat
that did them in.

Signature
Need Mercedes parts? http://parts.mbz.org
Richard Sexton | Mercedes stuff: http://mbz.org
1970 280SE, 72 280SE | Home pages: http://rs79.vrx.net
633CSi 250SE/C 300SD | http://aquaria.net http://killi.net
Thom - 16 Jun 2006 18:12 GMT
> Hi all, I know that the broken radiator neck is a common problem. Seems
> though that I've still got an inch or so of neck left which I've clamped
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
> case in a 300e (1989) as well? Do possible oil lines just need to be
> disconnected from the radiator or actually opend?
I own an '89 300E, my radiator broke the same way. Unless you can
create another lip on the break area, replacement is best. I replaced
mine in about 15 minutes. It cost 135 bucks online for a new radiator.