been working on this problem and reading posts [1998-now]in this group
for the last few days. have tried all i solutions i thought could be
prob. on def, a/c comp is not running, [not serviced] fan runs, aux
pump is running. mono valve looks good, clicks with external power,
but has no power to it when on def. i took off the hoses, and could
pour water in one outlet and out the other. so i assume it is in open
position. i have taken all 3 hoses off nipples on firewall and supplied
light flow by garden hose [i suppose they are attached directly to
core, right?] all flow very freely. end nipples seem connected
inside, put water in one, it comes out the other. put water in the
middle it comes out both sides. put back together, with engine at 80c
and system pressure built i get hot pressurized hose from rear block
to center nipple. but both outside hoses soft, and somewhat hot.
squeeze either and i can hear some flow, but not much. zero warm air
at dash. which way is the water circulation going? from rear left
side block to center nipple and then to mono valve and then to aux pump
then to water pump as i assume? can my heater core be hot and i have
some valve closed to air flow under the dash? i appreciate any help,
suggestion on this, i really want this heater/ ac to work. havent
tackled a/c yet. -gary
T.G. Lambach - 22 Jun 2006 22:41 GMT
Mono valve's default is full open so no power in DEF is just what's
appropriate for that valve.
(but both outside hoses soft, and somewhat hot.
squeeze either and i can hear some flow, but not much.)
Your "hearing" some flow suggests an air bound condition.
Try to purge the air.
zdilly2000@gmail.com - 23 Jun 2006 00:51 GMT
thanks for your quick response, i remember someone in previous posts
mentioning purgeing, but HOW? can you help me? thanks
> Mono valve's default is full open so no power in DEF is just what's
> appropriate for that valve.
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> Your "hearing" some flow suggests an air bound condition.
> Try to purge the air.
T.G. Lambach - 23 Jun 2006 01:17 GMT
An air pocket will be at the high point(s) of the plumbing. You may need
to temporarily loosen a hose clamp or two to allow any air to escape.
I don't know this piping layout, and don't recall air bounding being a
common problem; others here may have more incisive ideas and / or methods.
Chas Hurst - 23 Jun 2006 01:27 GMT
> An air pocket will be at the high point(s) of the plumbing. You may need
> to temporarily loosen a hose clamp or two to allow any air to escape.
>
> I don't know this piping layout, and don't recall air bounding being a
> common problem; others here may have more incisive ideas and / or methods.
It's been a while since I had my head under the hood of an old SD. I recall
a temp sensor in an aluminum part that could be loosed/removed to assit in
bleeding the coolant.
Tiger - 23 Jun 2006 02:47 GMT
Are you getting some hot coolant to your monovalve when engine is running
and hot? If not, then it is possible your aux water pump is bad. Follow that
hose from the water pump area into your monovalve.
zdilly2000@gmail.com - 23 Jun 2006 15:15 GMT
BINGO! tiger, you won't believe this. all i had left was to check
flow through that metal tube to water pump. not a likely prob huh?
well, some bottom-feeding s.o.b had put a plastic plug in the rubber
hose from this steel tube to the aux pump. &**^^%$#%&_! prob trying
to eliminate any hot air mix with a/c on. then when heater don't work
in the winter he takes out the plug again!! what a hero! thanks to
you all for your help. what a source for a 'tinkerer' such as myself.
-gary
> Are you getting some hot coolant to your monovalve when engine is running
> and hot? If not, then it is possible your aux water pump is bad. Follow that
> hose from the water pump area into your monovalve.
Tiger - 23 Jun 2006 18:17 GMT
Whoa... can't believe that. We'll now that you know the likely problem... it
is possible that your monovalve insert have a torn rubber diaphragm... which
let coolant leaks into the heater core... so if that is so, just change the
insert.
zdilly2000@gmail.com - 24 Jun 2006 14:40 GMT
told you it is hard to believe.... if i knew how to put a pix on here
i'd shhow it to you. it's an actual plastic plug, not a part of the
diaphram, it is good and monovave is working. i put a window reg in
rt rr door, fixed the elect vac pump connection, new door striker...
with heater fix, i am near a hero to my wife at this point.... but i
gave you the credit on the heater :) -gary
> Whoa... can't believe that. We'll now that you know the likely problem... it
> is possible that your monovalve insert have a torn rubber diaphragm... which
> let coolant leaks into the heater core... so if that is so, just change the
> insert.
Richard Sexton - 23 Jun 2006 10:26 GMT
If when you push the drefrost button nothinh happens - that is
the fan doesn't spin and it will when +12 and gnd are applied
then it is almost certainly your pushbutton assembly that's
failed, they do seem to go first and it's about $50 for
a good used one off ebay.

Signature
Need Mercedes parts? http://parts.mbz.org
Richard Sexton | Mercedes stuff: http://mbz.org
1970 280SE, 72 280SE | Home pages: http://rs79.vrx.net
633CSi 250SE/C 300SD | http://aquaria.net http://killi.net