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Car Forum / Mercedes-Benz Cars / June 2006

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Replacing instrument panel light in my W210??

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jstableford@gmail.com - 24 Jun 2006 15:50 GMT
I have one bulb out in the dash of my '97 E 320. Is it worth it to try
and replace it, or is this a monster job that should wait until they
all burn out?

Any suggestions would be much appreciated.
T.G. Lambach - 24 Jun 2006 17:43 GMT
Own the same model and had the same decision to make. Dealer replaced
all the bulbs for $140 labor - ouch - but it's done and cosmetically as new.
Richard Sexton - 25 Jun 2006 02:19 GMT
>I have one bulb out in the dash of my '97 E 320. Is it worth it to try
>and replace it, or is this a monster job that should wait until they
>all burn out?

I can't speak authoritatively for a W210 as I haven't done this
but my understanding is all MB clusters are the same - you pull
it out with two bits of bent coathanger (assuming you don't have the
proper MB toold which emulate two bits of bent coathanger nicely).

One you get over the mental anguish of actually doing this it's a five
minute operation on any car anywhere any time.

Signature

  Need Mercedes parts?   http://parts.mbz.org
Richard Sexton       | Mercedes stuff: http://mbz.org
1970 280SE, 72 280SE | Home pages: http://rs79.vrx.net
633CSi 250SE/C 300SD | http://aquaria.net http://killi.net

Guenter Scholz - 25 Jun 2006 02:54 GMT
>>I have one bulb out in the dash of my '97 E 320. Is it worth it to try
>>and replace it, or is this a monster job that should wait until they
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>One you get over the mental anguish of actually doing this it's a five
>minute operation on any car anywhere any time.

    I'm probably missing something, but I've done this and was
definitely not going to stick a thick coat hanger wire anywhere around the
cluster.  Instead I used my sparkplug gapping blades... hey, it's the one
flat and thin piece of metal I had handy.  Worked great and the cluster was
easily removed once I had worked it lose a tad.

cheers, guenter

....... yeah Germnay, sorry to see Sweden go.... what a great goaly!
Really, really wanted to see the UK, D matchup.... oh well
jstableford@gmail.com - 25 Jun 2006 14:49 GMT
OK, so I have a set of gapping blades like you describe, and can
visualize what you're saying. Is there a particular place to try to
grip the cluster from, like 3 and 9 o'clock?

I'm not going to jam anything bigger than a knifeblade in there, but
for reference, how securely is the cluster put in there? How much force
should I expect to use without breaking something?

J

> >>I have one bulb out in the dash of my '97 E 320. Is it worth it to try
> >>and replace it, or is this a monster job that should wait until they
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
> ....... yeah Germnay, sorry to see Sweden go.... what a great goaly!
> Really, really wanted to see the UK, D matchup.... oh well
jstableford@gmail.com - 25 Jun 2006 14:57 GMT
In the meantime, here's what I found:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Logo-Instrument-Cluster-Pull-Hooks-New_W
0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ43996QQihZ002QQitemZ4631130413QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V


They really do look like a (thin) coathanger!

> OK, so I have a set of gapping blades like you describe, and can
> visualize what you're saying. Is there a particular place to try to
[quoted text clipped - 28 lines]
> > ....... yeah Germnay, sorry to see Sweden go.... what a great goaly!
> > Really, really wanted to see the UK, D matchup.... oh well
Tiger - 25 Jun 2006 20:04 GMT
Exactly what I used... no problem. Position is about 2" from the bottom of
the cluster to insert the tool and pull out one side at a time... it is like
snug fit.
Guenter Scholz - 26 Jun 2006 02:13 GMT
>Exactly what I used... no problem. Position is about 2" from the bottom of
>the cluster to insert the tool and pull out one side at a time... it is like
>snug fit.

        ?  side, maybe you meant

cheers, guenter
Tiger - 26 Jun 2006 15:50 GMT
Yes, on the side...
Richard Sexton - 26 Jun 2006 18:40 GMT
>Exactly what I used... no problem. Position is about 2" from the bottom of
>the cluster to insert the tool and pull out one side at a time... it is like
>snug fit.

Yeah, it is. If you look very very very carefully you should see a slight
opening that tells you exacly where to put the tools in.

Signature

  Need Mercedes parts?   http://parts.mbz.org
Richard Sexton       | Mercedes stuff: http://mbz.org
1970 280SE, 72 280SE | Home pages: http://rs79.vrx.net
633CSi 250SE/C 300SD | http://aquaria.net http://killi.net

Guenter Scholz - 26 Jun 2006 02:02 GMT
doesn't matter, especially considering what Richard said.  Maybe the dash
had a bit of give somewhere and there may be a bit of a better gap at some
point on the cluster between it and the dash.  re the security.  Like
richard said, it's really jsut pushed into place and held by friciton. but
think about it, the only way it could come out is if you accelerated at
a few g's .... we could only hope so.

cheers, guenter

>OK, so I have a set of gapping blades like you describe, and can
>visualize what you're saying. Is there a particular place to try to
[quoted text clipped - 28 lines]
>> ....... yeah Germnay, sorry to see Sweden go.... what a great goaly!
>> Really, really wanted to see the UK, D matchup.... oh well
Richard Sexton - 26 Jun 2006 18:39 GMT
>OK, so I have a set of gapping blades like you describe, and can
>visualize what you're saying. Is there a particular place to try to
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>for reference, how securely is the cluster put in there? How much force
>should I expect to use without breaking something?

Somebody should let me know if the W210 cluster is the same
as all the other postwar Mercedes. Assuming it is...

It's surprising how much force is required to yank it out
considering it's a friction fit, albeit a very precise one.

The cluster itself has a border of soft rubebry foam that
makes the seal and holds it in place. There are places on the
back of the cluster where a small hook (not a blade) is supposed
to catch on, one each side.

The proper MErcedes tool is a black plastic "T" handle with
a thin wire attached to it that has a kink in it about 3/4
of an inch from the end. Most poeple use bent coathangers.

You push it in, feel around for something to grab on to
and whe you feel like it's found it's place (not hard)
you simply pull firmly but gently and the whole thing
comes forward. You'll have to undo a wire or two to
get it out all the way but you can replace bulbs without
it coming too far out.

The tool is documented here:

    http://articles.mbz.org/instrument/renew/

Signature

  Need Mercedes parts?   http://parts.mbz.org
Richard Sexton       | Mercedes stuff: http://mbz.org
1970 280SE, 72 280SE | Home pages: http://rs79.vrx.net
633CSi 250SE/C 300SD | http://aquaria.net http://killi.net

OM - 26 Jun 2006 09:20 GMT
Won't it be easier if Mercedes-Benz uses the fibre optic to illuminate
the instrument cluster and dashboard with one bulb somewhere in a very
easy to access location?

If Rolls-Royce is able to use that technology for the mood lights for
its 101EX concept car, why not for other applications? That is the day
I've been dreaming about! I'm through with taking the dashboard apart to
access one burnt bulb and putting everything back only to find another
bulb burnt out. Argh!

> I have one bulb out in the dash of my '97 E 320. Is it worth it to try
> and replace it, or is this a monster job that should wait until they
> all burn out?
>
> Any suggestions would be much appreciated.
Tiger - 26 Jun 2006 15:51 GMT
Nope... that will only cost more... and a pain to service the car... MB does
use fiber optic on older cars to light up all the switches... not sure on
newer one.
Richard Sexton - 26 Jun 2006 18:42 GMT
>Won't it be easier if Mercedes-Benz uses the fibre optic to illuminate
>the instrument cluster and dashboard with one bulb somewhere in a very
>easy to access location?

They already do this for some lights in the 126 series. But, instrument
lights cannot have a single point of failure.

Signature

  Need Mercedes parts?   http://parts.mbz.org
Richard Sexton       | Mercedes stuff: http://mbz.org
1970 280SE, 72 280SE | Home pages: http://rs79.vrx.net
633CSi 250SE/C 300SD | http://aquaria.net http://killi.net

 
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