Hello Tom
Right on the ball as always. I'd forgot about the cap.
The fifth element!
To check this out (and not having a new cap to hand), I have firstly
cleaned the cap (inc the small reverse pressure release in the
centre). I have now pressurised the system cold with a foot pump into
the overflow line (through the pressure release valve in the cap,
which is on). There is definitely pressure in there now (I can feel it
in the rad hoses). I've left it some minutes and it seems to be
holding. How long is necessary is up for debate.
Assuming it holds the pressure tho (for some tens of minutes), does
that tell me anything with the thing cold. How different would it all
be hot (and I am considering that hot with these things is not a huge
heat (~100C).
As to the aux fan, I don't have one of those. Just the engine driven
one, and the viscous coupling feels quite stiff to me, so I surmise
that is OK.
You're right about the temps tho. Even for Blitey, we've had some
cracking hot weather. Nothing upto USA standards, but almost 100f in
places here. The humidity is pretty high though, which is wilting us
all.
I gotta say though, my Toyota Hilux (4-runner) diesel and my GM
runabout never gave me the slightest cause for concern in the heat.
My classic car buddy at work is convinced its the rad that is blocked.
Maybe the leak stopper I put in has finally bunged it up.
What do you think. A new rad for good measure?. I could maybe get a
re-core for $150 and all new for $200.
The pump is a definite candidate for swapping. There is definitely
some slight vertical play in the bearing. The pump will cost me $150
also.
Cheers... Rob.
>Rob my Man,
>
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>
>Tom
T.G. Lambach - 08 Aug 2006 00:48 GMT
Hi Rob,
100 degrees C. is to be expected from a gas engine in traffic on a hot
day - not a problem - normal.
Pressure in the cooling system does nothing about its temperature,
pressure simply raises the coolant's boiling point so the motor can run
hotter w/o boiling.
The radiator can be dirty outside as well as inside so an easy fix is to
clean its coils with a garden hose (first cover the motor and alternator).
Water pumps are a matter of confidence - I found M-B rebuilt pumps well
worth the (small extra) $ vs. some Brand X that failed after 5K miles!
You're a clever guy - to pressurize the system through its overflow tube
- I never would have thought of that.
Happy Motoring.
Tom
Rob. Smith - 09 Aug 2006 21:16 GMT
Just a quick update
Well after two days (I've been busy and claim all the usual 21st
centuary excuses), the system still has pressure, and quite a
reasonable amount (hoses still noticeably hard).
Points to note are that the radiator is showing signs of several leaks
(weeps) accross the front area of the cooling surface. I can see a
number of damp patches, some as big as a quarter, one maybe 3 inches
across. The fact that there is pressure whilst cold means that the
coolant is not evaporating quickly with the heat/air movement so its
very easy to see.
I guess what this is pointing to is I need, at the minimum, a new rad.
Maybe that is where all my pressure went. A new leak opened up, was
quickly sealed by the coolant additive, but meant I ended up with no
pressure. I reckon that the core maybe blocked as well, hence the
severe reduction in cooling power.
Anyway, I'll order a new/exchange rad and get that fitted to start
with, and throw in a new stat as well.
Cheers again Tom.
... Rob.
>Hi Rob,
>
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>
>Tom