> Get a can of graphite libricant. It usually comes in a spray can
> with alcohol as a carrier. Spray it in there.
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
> what "lock de-icer" is. But that just frees it up you still need
> to lubricate it with graphite to fix it in the longer term.

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Roger Shoaf
If you are not part of the solution, you are not dissolved in the solvent.
>"Richard Sexton" <richard@news.vrx.net> wrote in message
>A couple of observations. First WD40 is mostly solvent and does not turn to
>a hard gum.
Not really. It's an oil dissolved in a petrolium carrier. Eventually the oil
does what all oils do - gets thicker with age.
MB recommends graphics and nothing else for locks. Locks that have had
years of WD40 sprayed into them eventuallyget tobe a gummy mess. All you
can do is chean them throroughly then lubricate properly with graphite.
>Graphite works great as a lock lubricant, but if you apply it to a lock that
>has grease inside, you get carbon impacted grease that can be a mechanical
>problem as it takes up space that the tumblers need to wiggle and slide.
True.
>The big advantage to WD40 is that it is cheap and everyone seems to have a
>can or two around the house. If the lock is gummy, flushing with WD40 until
>the outflow runs clear will not hurt anything. Once the solvent evaporates
>then a puff or two of powdered graphite is great.
True but you are leaving a petrolium lock residue behind. Once or twice probably
won't hurt it but long term, using this stuff regularly does caue problems. Lots
of people have noticed this with their cars.
>Products like carb cleaner are good for degreasing a lock, but you have to
>be careful as they might damage the paint.
Alcohol seems to work ok. Any polar solvent will really...

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Richard Sexton | Mercedes stuff: http://mbz.org
1970 280SE, 72 280SE | Home pages: http://rs79.vrx.net
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Roger Shoaf - 26 Aug 2006 00:29 GMT
> >"Richard Sexton" <richard@news.vrx.net> wrote in message
> >A couple of observations. First WD40 is mostly solvent and does not turn to
> >a hard gum.
>
> Not really. It's an oil dissolved in a petrolium carrier. Eventually the oil
> does what all oils do - gets thicker with age.
Yes there is a thin oil film left after the solvent evaporates. Now just
how sticky or gummy is it? Try this, take a coin and wash it with
dishwashing soap. When dry spray it with WD40. Set it aside and let it dry
out. Now feel the surface.
> MB recommends graphics and nothing else for locks. Locks that have had
> years of WD40 sprayed into them eventuallyget tobe a gummy mess. All you
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
>
> True but you are leaving a petrolium lock residue behind.
From the factory the locks are greased. That is a lot of petrolium residue,
the thin film left behind from WD40 is a whole lot less. It does no harm,
but admititly it is not the worlds greatest lube.
I would qualify the "does no harm" in circunstances like wheel bearings that
are suposed to be packed in grease, there it would flush out the grease
leaving the bearing without enough lube. In my experience as a locksmith
since 1977 most lubrication problems in locks are from not lubricating them,
hence the "does no harm" position.

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Roger Shoaf
Important factors in selecting a mate:
1] Depth of gene pool
2] Position on the food chain.
Once or twice probably
> won't hurt it but long term, using this stuff regularly does caue problems. Lots
> of people have noticed this with their cars.
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>
> Alcohol seems to work ok. Any polar solvent will really...
Richard Sexton - 28 Aug 2006 16:18 GMT
>> does what all oils do - gets thicker with age.
>
>Yes there is a thin oil film left after the solvent evaporates. Now just
>how sticky or gummy is it? Try this, take a coin and wash it with
>dishwashing soap. When dry spray it with WD40. Set it aside and let it dry
>out. Now feel the surface.
Now do it every year for 10 years. That's the point - with *age* the oil
turns into a gum and is why you don't want to shoot WD40 into the lock of
a Mercedes. Them parts get all gummed if in time if you keep doing this. Which
is why the *factory* insists on graphite *only*.

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Need Mercedes parts? http://parts.mbz.org
Richard Sexton | Mercedes stuff: http://mbz.org
1970 280SE, 72 280SE | Home pages: http://rs79.vrx.net
633CSi 250SE/C 300SD | http://aquaria.net http://killi.net
jdsm711 - 30 Oct 2006 00:05 GMT
the fuel pump is located on driver's side near the injection system.there
is three nuts holding the pump on but they seem impossible to get to.
please help in informing me on what to do and if any special tool are
need. thanks in advance for any help given. jdsm711
Mauricio Tavares - 31 Oct 2006 18:43 GMT
> the fuel pump is located on driver's side near the injection system.there
> is three nuts holding the pump on but they seem impossible to get to.
> please help in informing me on what to do and if any special tool are
> need. thanks in advance for any help given. jdsm711
They should all be 13mm. If I am not wrong there is also a bracket on
the back of the pump but even that one is not that hard. Just take your
time. Now, remember that you have to get the timming right, so oyu may
want to leave the engine at TDC.

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Mauricio raub-kudria-com
(if you need to email me, use this address =)