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Car Forum / Mercedes-Benz Cars / August 2006Brake Rotor removal
(*&^(&*^%#$$%#^ .... I can not get my rotor off the hub. I've tried heat and pounding as well as a bearing puller..... I'm sure many of you had similar rusted on rotors (there is nothing holding it once the calipers are off) what turned out to work best? more heat or more pounding....grrrrr cheers, guenter ps if it matters, it's my daughters '95 cavalier... it needs bearings > (*&^(&*^%#$$%#^ .... I can not get my rotor off the hub. I've tried heat >and pounding as well as a bearing puller..... I'm sure many of you had >similar rusted on rotors (there is nothing holding it once the calipers are >off) what turned out to work best? more heat or more pounding....grrrrr Use a bigger hammer.  SignatureNeed Mercedes parts? http://parts.mbz.org Richard Sexton | Mercedes stuff: http://mbz.org 1970 280SE, 72 280SE | Home pages: http://rs79.vrx.net 633CSi 250SE/C 300SD | http://aquaria.net http://killi.net >> (*&^(&*^%#$$%#^ .... I can not get my rotor off the hub. I've tried heat >>and pounding as well as a bearing puller..... I'm sure many of you had >>similar rusted on rotors (there is nothing holding it once the calipers are >>off) what turned out to work best? more heat or more pounding....grrrrr > >Use a bigger hammer. But I'm already taking chunks out of the edge of the rotor.... am I hitting the rotor at the right places I wonder?? cheers, guenter I used a 4-lb hammer before... band from inside... no problem...small hammer may not work.. there is a screw that secure the disc.. > >> (*&^(&*^%#$$%#^ .... I can not get my rotor off the hub. I've tried heat > >>and pounding as well as a bearing puller..... I'm sure many of you had [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > cheers, guenter thanks.... I know that mercedes uses a screw, but GM doesen't as far as I know the rotor should just come off after the wheel is removed.. I've meanwhile also tried a 4 lb hammer or similar.... no luck :-( cheers, guenter >I used a 4-lb hammer before... band from inside... no problem...small hammer >may not work.. [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] >> >> cheers, guenter Then hit the rotor hard at the spot wheel wheels sit (around the hub)... and it will bounce out. >>> (*&^(&*^%#$$%#^ .... I can not get my rotor off the hub. I've tried heat >>>and pounding as well as a bearing puller..... I'm sure many of you had [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > >am I hitting the rotor at the right places I wonder?? Hmm, ok, well get some penetrating oil down between the hub and the rotor and give it a couple of hours to work. Then whack it some more. SignatureNeed Mercedes parts? http://parts.mbz.org Richard Sexton | Mercedes stuff: http://mbz.org 1970 280SE, 72 280SE | Home pages: http://rs79.vrx.net 633CSi 250SE/C 300SD | http://aquaria.net http://killi.net Exactly, thanks Richard.... we'll see tomorrow if it'll finally come off. Geez, I hate to be told "told you to go to a garage" by my wife "-) I've 'got' tp get this rotor off and finish to job so I can tell ger 'piece of cake' :-) cheers, guenter >>>> (*&^(&*^%#$$%#^ .... I can not get my rotor off the hub. I've tried heat >>>>and pounding as well as a bearing puller..... I'm sure many of you had [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > >Then whack it some more. I am not sure... is it a hub/brake disc unit? If yes, take the center cap off then cotter pin and then the nut. If there is no hub, did you get the screw that holding the disc in off? Lastly, why don't you go to the local library to check Chilton service manual? >I am not sure... is it a hub/brake disc unit? If yes, take the center cap >off then cotter pin and then the nut. If there is no hub, did you get the >screw that holding the disc in off? > >Lastly, why don't you go to the local library to check Chilton service >manual? thanks for the thought.... there is no screw etc holding the rotor on the bearing/hub assembly.... it is held on by the rim when it's bolted on... there is a 30mm nut that holds the bearing/hub sealed assembly onto the frame. On Richard's suggestion I've now tried a fair sized mallet with no luck... I'm sure that I'm about to brake the rotor if I pound any harder/longer.... if anyone has had similar difficulties with a rotor removal I'd LOVE to know what may have finally done the trick to get it off.... WD40/heat/pounding? cheers, guenter ps I just can't give in to the temptation to take it to the garage... it must be a matter of pride at this point.... I should have taken it to the garage right away though - but I'll be damned if I admit defeat to my wife who just loves to take everything to an 'expert' :-) Hit around the hub where wheel hold it in... use a steel hammer... ball pean hammer, what ever... whack it hard and let it bounce off the hub onto your feet. Wait a minute... are we talking rear rotor? If so, make sure parking brake is NOT on. >Wait a minute... are we talking rear rotor? If so, make sure parking brake >is NOT on. :-) of course not ... I'm impressed though at the possibilities you are thinking of..... much appreciated. Thank you. cheers, guenter ps I've meanwhile sprayed it with WD40 and am waiting a bit.... nI can't believe the rotor is rusted onto the hub/bearing assembly to that degree. Lesson for those who might consider doing similar themselfes.... think twice about it. al the parts that were 'supposed'to be difficult like removing the 30 mm hub nut were trivially easy.... the rotor was suposed to just fall off after removing the wheel.... yeah right. Maybe if the car hasn't had 10 winters on it In article <ecibkd$3ot$1@rumours.uwaterloo.ca>, >ps I've meanwhile sprayed it with WD40 and am waiting a bit.... Eww. I would have used real penetrating oil WD40 only does one thing well - keep water out. It does a lot of other things ok but not great. SignatureNeed Mercedes parts? http://parts.mbz.org Richard Sexton | Mercedes stuff: http://mbz.org 1970 280SE, 72 280SE | Home pages: http://rs79.vrx.net 633CSi 250SE/C 300SD | http://aquaria.net http://killi.net Richard, good to know..... but, what is a good penetrating oil? I thought the stuff simply needed to be very 'runny' which WD40 certainly is... cheers, guenter >In article <ecibkd$3ot$1@rumours.uwaterloo.ca>, >>ps I've meanwhile sprayed it with WD40 and am waiting a bit.... > >Eww. I would have used real penetrating oil WD40 only does one thing >well - keep water out. It does a lot of other things ok but not great. >Richard, good to know..... but, what is a good penetrating oil? I thought >the stuff simply needed to be very 'runny' which WD40 certainly is... Almost any petrolium product will work. Hell I've used transmission fluid in a pinch. But stuff mad just for this purpose works best. I have a can of stuff that says "penetrating oil". Beats me where I got it and for all I know it came over on the boat from Wales with my dad. Crappy tire will have stuff. It goes by lots of trade names which escape me for the moment. It's very thin, like water and smells awful. SignatureNeed Mercedes parts? http://parts.mbz.org Richard Sexton | Mercedes stuff: http://mbz.org 1970 280SE, 72 280SE | Home pages: http://rs79.vrx.net 633CSi 250SE/C 300SD | http://aquaria.net http://killi.net [WD-40 versus penetrating oil] > I thought the stuff simply needed to be very 'runny' which > WD40 certainly is... Isn't WD-40 actually a powder, sort of like the graphite used for locks, that's suspended in a liquid carrier which evaporates? If so, its penetrating power is pretty much limited to the force of the aerosol propellant, which obviously stops the moment you take your finger off the button, plus whatever finite length of time it takes the carrier to evaporate. Penetrating oil, in contrast, won't evaporate. And it's a commodity; penetrating oil is penetrating oil. No brand is superior to any other in my experience. Geoff Signature"The interesting thing about Santa Cruz is that it provides enduring evidence that people who are as dumb as a bowl of mice can make a good living, and even be considered cool." -- jthomas@pacbell.net >[WD-40 versus penetrating oil] > [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] >used for locks, that's suspended in a liquid carrier which >evaporates? No, it's an oil in a solvent carrier that evaporates. Graphite can come as a powder or in an alcohol carrier. SignatureNeed Mercedes parts? http://parts.mbz.org Richard Sexton | Mercedes stuff: http://mbz.org 1970 280SE, 72 280SE | Home pages: http://rs79.vrx.net 633CSi 250SE/C 300SD | http://aquaria.net http://killi.net >>[WD-40 versus penetrating oil] >> [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] >No, it's an oil in a solvent carrier that evaporates. Graphite >can come as a powder or in an alcohol carrier. I've been told by a shop mechanic that WD40 is a light oil that is suspended in a soapy carrier solution..... difficult to know exactly what it is, but it does appear to 'foam' quite easily cheers, guenter Guenter Scholz schrieb: > (*&^(&*^%#$$%#^ .... I can not get my rotor off the hub. I've tried heat > and pounding as well as a bearing puller..... I'm sure many of you had [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > ps if it matters, it's my daughters '95 cavalier... it needs bearings There is only one way: A three pound hammer.... SignatureRoland Franzius thanks Roland.... I'm now up to an 4 lb hammer.... I'm going to soak it in penetrating oil overnight to see if that'l help cheers, guenter >Guenter Scholz schrieb: >> (*&^(&*^%#$$%#^ .... I can not get my rotor off the hub. I've tried heat [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > >There is only one way: A three pound hammer.... Guenter Scholz schrieb: > thanks Roland.... I'm now up to an 4 lb hammer.... I'm going to soak it in > penetrating oil overnight to see if that'l help Its better to peel off the rust deposit at the back of the rotor with a chisel first. Otherwise you possibly get it jammed. And if you are using oil wash it from all parts of the axis and brakes finnicky. Loosening the rotor needs some time and patience. Turn the rotor regularly and hammer at the rim. Hammering together with spanning a puller will certainly get it. SignatureRoland Franzius > cheers, guenter > [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] >>> ps if it matters, it's my daughters '95 cavalier... it needs bearings >> There is only one way: A three pound hammer.... > Guenter Scholz schrieb: > > thanks Roland.... I'm now up to an 4 lb hammer.... I'm going to soak it in [quoted text clipped - 28 lines] > >> > >> Roland Franzius It is a cavalier, no rear disks unless it is a Z24. I have never heard of one staying locked on like that. I have always just removed the wheel, then the brake caliper, and it falls off. I suggest lots of heat if the penetrating oil does not work, since it may be siezed around the lugs (I have owned several GM's, and one sone owns a 91 now). Also, do not have it turned, just replace it. They are only 12 bucks at Autozone, almost as cheap as having them turned. Well success!! I applied 'lots' of heat from my butane torch, torqued on a spanning puller to the outside of the rotor against the axle and after torquing it down a 'lot' bashed away with the 4 lb hammer.... it moved at] that point... inspecting the rotor hub interface, it became clear that the rust had build up on both to the point where the rotor was engulfed by rust ie; it basically cemented on... thanks for all the helpful suggestions... much apreciated to be sure! cheers, guenter >> thanks Roland.... I'm now up to an 4 lb hammer.... I'm going to soak it in >> penetrating oil overnight to see if that'l help [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] >>>> ps if it matters, it's my daughters '95 cavalier... it needs bearings >>> There is only one way: A three pound hammer.... > Well success!! I applied 'lots' of heat from my butane torch, torqued on > a [quoted text clipped - 37 lines] >>>>> ps if it matters, it's my daughters '95 cavalier... it needs bearings >>>> There is only one way: A three pound hammer.... Whew! Am I glad that got resolved. |
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