 |
 | Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us |
 | Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network |
Car Forum / Mercedes-Benz Cars / September 2006proud new owner, I think?
Hi folks I've been perusing this sight for a while now, and your enthusiasm and passion for these cars is contagious. I just bought a 1980 300D. I am going back and forth from being exited to a feeling of dread that I made a mistake. I bought the vehicle sight unseen on ebay ( a little crazy I know) but I have been looking locally as well as online for about a year and have watched the prices of the 1980 to 85 diesels go up pretty dramatically. And I have bought a couple of other cars on e-bay (none this old) and have had good luck so far.I'm pretty sure if all is as stated by the owner that I got a good enough deal to take a chance. this is the link to the vehicle http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=180020428987& sspagename=ADME%3AL%3ARTQ%3AUS%3A1 >From what the owner says it is a daily driver with no mechanical problems besides a non working A/C and a non operational passenger window. I am thinking about flying out to California from Chicago and driving the car back. What questions should I ask now of the owner, and what should I have checked out specifically when I get there as far as mechanicals to ascertain whether or not the car can make such a long cross country trip? Does anyone know of an honest MB mechanic in Sacramento California I can take it to? I am new to diesel Mercedes cars but I am a fairly adequate diy kind of guy. Anything in particular to look for in the non turbo 1980 300D, besides sluggish acceleration :) Wow... a thousand buck. That is a bargain for rust free car. I would let a MB diesel mechanic check it out before your ride back to Chicago. I'd buy some fuel filters, jumper cable, essential tools to carry with me on the road. AAA would be great too... don't forget that MB road service is free for minor things... but repair on the road cost money. For a $1000 you can't lose. Just remember to change and check all fluids (if not already done so) before driving that far cp > Hi folks I've been perusing this sight for a while now, and your > enthusiasm and passion for these cars is contagious. [quoted text clipped - 28 lines] > guy. Anything in particular to look for in the non turbo 1980 300D, > besides sluggish acceleration :) You may find that having it shipped to you is cheaper (and safer) than you traveling to Sacramento and driving it back to Chicago. About $1,000 +/-. You know squat about this car and it's a long drive. One break down and the $1,000 truck shipping looks pretty good. Trucking is by vehicle size and whether the car will be inside or outside. Prices can be a bit, not a lot, "flexible" so don't take the first number thrown out. > You may find that having it shipped to you is cheaper (and safer) than > you traveling to Sacramento and driving it back to Chicago. About $1,000 [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > outside. Prices can be a bit, not a lot, "flexible" so don't take the > first number thrown out. Good point...but at about 1000.00 shipping which is what I paid for the car, vs. 125.00 for the one way ticket to Sacramento plus travel expenses. I'm thinking if a mechanic gives the O.K. it may be worth the risk. I would love to know if anyone knows a good independent MB mechanic around Sacramento, Or should I just have a dealer look it over? If someone in the know looks at it and tells me its risky I can still have it shipped,and fly back. > I just bought a 1980 300D. I am going back and forth from being > exited to a feeling of dread that I made a mistake. Congratulations! Relax and enjoy the car. As somebody else said, for a thousand bucks, you can't go wrong. > From what the owner says it is a daily driver with no mechanical > problems besides a non working A/C and a non operational passenger > window. I am thinking about flying out to California from Chicago and > driving the car back. Why don't people fix stuff like that when it breaks? I've never understood why some owners surrender to entropy and let malfunctions accumulate on their cars like that. I'd seriously recommend that if you do decide to drive the car home rather than having it shipped, you bite the bullet and have the air conditioning fixed first -- especially at this time of the year. Even if it weren't summertime, A/C would keep the noise level down inside the car, reducing fatigue, and prevent your being beaten half to death by the wind. W123 aerodynamics are such that the cars aren't terribly comfortable with the windows open at freeway speeds. This would be a logical opportunity to have the air conditioning system converted to R134A refrigerant. I'd also check the cruise control and fix it if necessary, since it'd be really nice to have on a long trip. That's particularly true in the case of a nonturbo car, in order to maintain freeway speeds more easily. Cruise control is a weak point with these cars. The culprit is the amplifier, a silver metal box inside the dash just ahead of the driver's left knee. (Replacements cost $200-300 but are plug-and- play.) Geoff  Signature"Like swallows heading for Capistrano, liberals are drawn toward those institutions where they have the power to impose their beliefs and ignore any knowledge that says otherwise. Such institutions are usually dominated by the left." -- Thomas Sowell >I'd also check the cruise control and fix it if necessary, since it'd >be really nice to have on a long trip. That's particularly true in [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] >driver's left knee. (Replacements cost $200-300 but are plug-and- >play.) Pussy :-) The cruise control is the last thing I'd be worried about. Hard suspension parts, hoses, belts, fluids, brakes, that's what I'd be more concerned about. Inspect and replace as required. The CC amp, when it fails, is 99% of the time a broken solder joint and the usual repair is pull the unit, resolder EVERYTHING then stuff it back in. That usually fixes it. I've never bothered to fix mine. I like cramped foot syndrome :-) SignatureNeed Mercedes parts? http://parts.mbz.org Richard Sexton | Mercedes stuff: http://mbz.org 1970 280SE, 72 280SE | Home pages: http://rs79.vrx.net 633CSi 250SE/C 300SD | http://aquaria.net http://killi.net [cruise control] > Pussy :-) Feh. :-) > The cruise control is the last thing I'd be worried about. Hard > suspension parts, hoses, belts, fluids, brakes, that's what I'd > be more concerned about. Inspect and replace as required. Absolutely. But the guy said he was going to have the car looked at before hitting the road, so I took it as a given that those items would be attended to first and foremost. > I've never bothered to fix mine. I like cramped foot syndrome :-) I find it's nice to be able to move around a bit, maybe lift one asscheek and then the other, in order to facilitate circulation. Not having to keep my foot on the accelerator makes taht easier. Geoff Signature"Like swallows heading for Capistrano, liberals are drawn toward those institutions where they have the power to impose their beliefs and ignore any knowledge that says otherwise. Such institutions are usually dominated by the left." -- Thomas Sowell >> I've never bothered to fix mine. I like cramped foot syndrome :-) > >I find it's nice to be able to move around a bit, maybe lift one >asscheek and then the other, in order to facilitate circulation. >Not having to keep my foot on the accelerator makes taht easier. "Only through suffering can we achieve perfection" - Checkov :-) SignatureNeed Mercedes parts? http://parts.mbz.org Richard Sexton | Mercedes stuff: http://mbz.org 1970 280SE, 72 280SE | Home pages: http://rs79.vrx.net 633CSi 250SE/C 300SD | http://aquaria.net http://killi.net > >> I've never bothered to fix mine. I like cramped foot syndrome :-) > > [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > 1970 280SE, 72 280SE | Home pages: http://rs79.vrx.net > 633CSi 250SE/C 300SD | http://aquaria.net http://killi.net Thanks for all the great advice EVERYONE. Its going to make owning one of these cars that much more satisfying knowing there is such a passionate and knowledgeable owners group out there. I think I'm leaning somewhere in the middle as far as pre-road trip maintenance. I can deal without air conditioner cruise control etc, I'm hard like that :) Not that I wouldn't like to have it. But I'd rather Have the time to work it out myself, or have my mechanic here work on it after I know a little more, at Midwest labor prices as opposed to California ones ( Big difference) I'm a bit leery of just handing my car over to a mechanic I don't know in a strange town and just have him fix everything that could possibly be wrong. I'm more worried about the Major break me down in the middle of nowhere stuff.. Belts, Hoses, fluids.....AAA? I'm thinking I'll have the fluids changed, compression test done, valve adjustment, hoses belts replaced as needed and hope for the best. Any advice on an honest mechanic in the Sacramento area??? Thanks again everyone. I would take to MB dealer in the area...saying that you plan to purchase the car and want it inspected. Make appointment before you go... or see if they can squeeze you in. Change oil would be the first thing to do... top off all the other fluids... you can top the fluids yourself or let a lube shop do it for you... Inspect the hoses for any soft spots... if yes, buy the hose at local autozone or something. Check the belt see if they are worn... like belt is below the rim of the pulley... or ripped or cracked badly... if not, I think you will be fine, pick up spares at autozone too. You definitely need AAA Deluxe. Bring some motor oil, some anitifreeze, water, and spare tool kit... buy locally at autozone... Other than that, I wouldn't worry unless the dealer tell you so.... No need for compression test done at Sacramento. AC... you can try to charge it up yourself with a kit if you want to... > I would take to MB dealer in the area...saying that you plan to purchase the > car and want it inspected. Make appointment before you go... or see if they [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] > > AC... you can try to charge it up yourself with a kit if you want to... Thanks Tiger.. What do you think is the best model specific manual I can bring on the trip..Any specific advice on tools to bring? MB service manual ia the best... but in short time, maybe your local library has Haynes manual for you to borrow... W123 manual. Basic tools... socket set, screwdriver, pliers, etc. Paper towels, hand cleaner, glove... > MB service manual ia the best... but in short time, maybe > your local library has Haynes manual for you to borrow... > W123 manual. I've used Haynes manuals for years, for several different cars. They're my favorite among those from the common publishers (Chilton, Clymer, etc.). Maynes manuals are sold in the parts department of my local M-B dealership. Don't know whether that's usually the case or not. If not, the nearest Borders & Noble ought to have a decent sel- ection of them. I have the manual for the W123 diesels, which I no longer own one of. Sadly, there doesn't seem to have been a Haynes manual written for the *W124* diesels. Sigh.) Geoff Signature"The interesting thing about Santa Cruz is that it provides enduring evidence that people who are as dumb as a bowl of mice can make a good living, and even be considered cool." -- jthomas@pacbell.net > I have the manual for the W123 diesels, which I no longer own > one of. Sadly, there doesn't seem to have been a Haynes manual > written for the *W124* diesels. Sigh.) My w124 manual has diesels in it. The 200, 250 (2.5 l) and 300 (3.0 l). I think it's based on models that were sold in Britain. (It's talking about C to K registrations, nothing bigger that a 320, though) Ximinez SignatureOur three weapons are fear, surprise, and ruthless efficiency... and an almost fanatical devotion to the Pope.... http://www.ai.mit.edu/people/paulfitz/spanish/t1.html http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gldlyTjXk9A >> I have the manual for the W123 diesels, which I no longer own >> one of. Sadly, there doesn't seem to have been a Haynes manual >> written for the *W124* diesels. Sigh.) > > My w124 manual has diesels in it. The 200, 250 (2.5 l) and 300 (3.0 l). That should have been 'my Haynes w124 manual'... Ximinez SignatureOur three weapons are fear, surprise, and ruthless efficiency... and an almost fanatical devotion to the Pope.... http://www.ai.mit.edu/people/paulfitz/spanish/t1.html http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gldlyTjXk9A FYI K-reg is 1993 (Aug 92 - Aug 93 to be precise). I have a K-reg 190E... DAS SignatureFor direct contact replace nospam with schmetterling --- >> I have the manual for the W123 diesels, which I no longer own >> one of. Sadly, there doesn't seem to have been a Haynes manual written [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > Ximinez > > MB service manual ia the best... but in short time, maybe > > your local library has Haynes manual for you to borrow... [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] > evidence that people who are as dumb as a bowl of mice can make a > good living, and even be considered cool." -- jthomas@pacbell.net Yes, there is one, BUT, you have to order it from Haynes. It is British, and will run 45 bucks after shipping (I know, cause I got one for my 89 300E). >> I've used Haynes manuals for years, for several different cars. >> They're my favorite among those from the common publishers >> (Chilton, Clymer, etc.). be forwarned though, there are errors. I did look at a Haynes just recently when removing my rotor.... they had the procedure correct, but in a mixed up order...... would have confused a novice for sure cheers, guenter >>> I've used Haynes manuals for years, for several different cars. >>> They're my favorite among those from the common publishers [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > recently when removing my rotor.... they had the procedure correct, but in > a mixed up order...... would have confused a novice for sure The layout for my 2.5 engine has two fuel filters and no oil filter. Go figure... Ximinez SignatureOur three weapons are fear, surprise, and ruthless efficiency... and an almost fanatical devotion to the Pope.... http://www.ai.mit.edu/people/paulfitz/spanish/t1.html http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gldlyTjXk9A Tiger <tiger0002@hotmail.comn> recommends: > I would take to MB dealer in the area...saying that you > plan to purchase the car and want it inspected. Make > appointment before you go... or see if they can squeeze > you in. A dealership? Bend over and grab your ankles. The M-B dealership in San Jose, Smythe European, charges a preposterous $165 an hour for labor, versus the painful but not extortionate $95 an hour the two independent shops I've used charge. I doubt things are much dif- ferent out Sacto way. Geoff Signature"The interesting thing about Santa Cruz is that it provides enduring evidence that people who are as dumb as a bowl of mice can make a good living, and even be considered cool." -- jthomas@pacbell.net > A dealership? Bend over and grab your ankles. The M-B > dealership in San Jose, Smythe European, charges a > preposterous $165 an hour for labor, versus the painful > but not extortionate $95 an hour the two independent > shops I've used charge. I doubt things are much dif- > ferent out Sacto way. 165.00 an hour! I've never even heard of such a thing, The independants out there charge more than the dealers here....I'm starting to re-think this , again. If I have to have any real work done to it there, it will totally kill any cost savings I would have driving it back. Now granted its not totally about the money, I was kind of looking forward to a little road trip, Get a feel for the car...But I really can't spend more than 5 days doing it, figure I can do it in 3 10 hour days, but that doesn't leave much room for sightseeing, much less potential breakdowns. I think I may be wussing out a little... hmmm.. > I think I may be wussing out a little... > > hmmm.. You don't need to go to a MB shop to get the fluids checked and the hoses, brakes, tires, etc. inspected etc. There must be a reasonably priced mechanic around that area that could look into these things for you. I would risk it - though I would buy AA! and pack a lunch, toolkit etc. as so many others have pointed out. [high hourly labor rate at M-B dealerships] > I think I may be wussing out a little... > hmmm.. Suggestion: Post to the newsgroup sac.general and ask if anyone can recommend a good indepdendent Mercedes shop in Sacramento. Maybe even crosspost to ba.general. Geoff Signature"The interesting thing about Santa Cruz is that it provides enduring evidence that people who are as dumb as a bowl of mice can make a good living, and even be considered cool." -- jthomas@pacbell.net >165.00 an hour! I've never even heard of such a thing, The independants >out there charge more than the dealers here....I'm starting to re-think [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] >that doesn't leave much room for sightseeing, much less potential >breakdowns. You could always drive it as is. If it breaks down you have it shipped, but frankly, chanced are probbaly not that bad that you'll make it back ok. And shipping it halfway across the country will be cheaper that shippig it all the way across the country. But, I wouldn't give up on finding a good inndy mechanic in the sacromento area yet. SignatureNeed Mercedes parts? http://parts.mbz.org Richard Sexton | Mercedes stuff: http://mbz.org 1970 280SE, 72 280SE | Home pages: http://rs79.vrx.net 633CSi 250SE/C 300SD | http://aquaria.net http://killi.net Oh darn it... Just drive it! Have an adventure... just make sure there is always oil in the engine! Or if you want to do cheap way... AAA deluxe will drive you 100 miles... drop off at each motel... and call another AAA to tow it for another 100 miles until you get home! Tiger's right. Sounds like a great adventure. Check that it's not leaking anything, get an extra fusible link, get the tires balanced/aligned, point the car East, and then drive it like you stole it. Don't have buyer's remorse unless it turns out to be a complete POS when you get there. My 2 cents (which is overpaying), Josh P.S. Make sure to post to this NG the outcome of your purchase and journey. > Oh darn it... Just drive it! Have an adventure... just make sure there > is always oil in the engine! Yeah, you can do it, Just relax. Another triumph of man and machine over time and the elements... > > Oh darn it... Just drive it! Have an adventure... just make sure there > > is always oil in the engine! > > Yeah, you can do it, Just relax. Well guys. after all this discussion I decided to ship it anyway the 450.00 price from DAS was to good to pass up. And the time involved plus plane ticket and gas taking time off work would have been more expensive by far. I still would have liked to do it anyway just for the sheer adventure of it. But the time/money constraints just aren't working out for now. Thanks for all the great info guys.. I'll keep you posted when I get the car (hopefully in one piece) Thanks. > You could always drive it as is. If it breaks down you have it shipped, > but frankly, chanced are probbaly not that bad that you'll make it back [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > > -- Good point...Kind of what I was thinking too...However I just got a DAS shipping quote, not door to door, but close enough...for 450.00!! at that price I dont think I can excuse the trip as any sort of cost savings, it would still be fun though.. :) I can't believe I can ship it for this price...every other quote I got was 1000.00 and up. >> You could always drive it as is. If it breaks down you have it shipped, >> but frankly, chanced are probbaly not that bad that you'll make it back [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] >I can't believe I can ship it for this price...every other quote I got >was 1000.00 and up. Uh, yeah well, be careful. If you think the company you call is actually the company that ships your car in a covered hauler and treats it with kid glove syou'd be mistaken. Oftentime they subcontract it out to somebody else and there are lots of stories of delayed and damaged cars. It's good to look for recommendations for car shippers - ones people have used and have good luck with. Often these are not the cheapest ones. Oddly this is one thing Amtrack does well. See if shipping by train is an option for you, it works well in some cases. SignatureNeed Mercedes parts? http://parts.mbz.org Richard Sexton | Mercedes stuff: http://mbz.org 1970 280SE, 72 280SE | Home pages: http://rs79.vrx.net 633CSi 250SE/C 300SD | http://aquaria.net http://killi.net I would want to hang around for a day or so checking the car out before you take it on the road. Any problems would surface pretty quickly and you can still get them taken care of locally instead of on the road. I would load up on extra oil, fuel filters, coolant , misc. small tolls duct tape, wire and then hit the road. Happy traveling > Hi folks I've been perusing this sight for a while now, and your > enthusiasm and passion for these cars is contagious. [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > > this is the link to the vehicle http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=180020428 987&sspagename=ADME%3AL%3ARTQ%3AUS%3A1 > >From what the owner says it is a daily driver with no mechanical > problems besides a non working A/C and a non operational passenger [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > guy. Anything in particular to look for in the non turbo 1980 300D, > besides sluggish acceleration :) I can't offer any specific advice not being familair with that specific car but in general you're on the right track. The more time and money you spend while it's there the nicer trip you'll have driving it back. I bought my 300SD in Atlants about 8 years ago. I had a guy who was familiar with those cars inspect it - he said "tie rods, cam chain, calve adjustment, alignment and all fluids and filters" so I had hat done and the seller damn near didn't want to give me the car back (jokingly said). I had a great trip home and still drive it daily. SignatureNeed Mercedes parts? http://parts.mbz.org Richard Sexton | Mercedes stuff: http://mbz.org 1970 280SE, 72 280SE | Home pages: http://rs79.vrx.net 633CSi 250SE/C 300SD | http://aquaria.net http://killi.net This 1980 has an automatic climate control system that's very complicated. So when you're told the A/C "doesn't work" be sure it's only the cooling that "doesn't work" not the whole system. Horror would be learning that someone had tried to "fix" this system (not just the cooling) and so messed it up that restoration is nearly impossible. Know that there's a OEM "servo" which controls the coolant flow to the heater, the vacuum to the ducts and the blower speeds. These servos can only be had rebuilt - about $500. Then there's the "amplifier" a circuit board located behind the glove box. The board's solder lines crack and the climate control acts crazy - like sudden full heat. But worse, the servo has a plastic base that can break allowing the coolant to run out and frying the engine. So when you drive keep an eye on the temperature gauge - diesels are quite consistent 80 degree C. runners, only rising on longer hills. There's a digital retrofit climate control available that replaces all the OEM junk. I installed one in my '80 model and it works well. Made by www.unwiredtools.com and sold by www.performanceproducts.com. - something to consider when you come to dealing with the car's climate control. > This 1980 has an automatic climate control system that's very complicated. > So when you're told the A/C "doesn't work" be sure it's only the cooling [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > www.unwiredtools.com and sold by www.performanceproducts.com. - something > to consider when you come to dealing with the car's climate control. Again, I agree with Tiger (no surprise). If you're a bit of a DIYer make sure you change the oil, oil filter, both fuel filters, fill er up and hit the road. These cars are rather bullet-proof compared to most other 25-year-old cars and the trip will certainly prove what you've bought by the time you get home. Additionally, you'll be able to make a list of things you want to check out once you get home. Don't worry about the A/C since it's just a matter of isolating the problem and taking care of the problem. Same with the cruise control. A/C systems are much simpler than most people think. The only problem where the 300D is concerned is the control system. That can also be corrected, especially if you have access to a local wrecking yard that takes in those that don't quite measure up or are banged up too much to repair. I have both an '81 240D and an '81 300D and they are probably the easiest cars I've ever worked on and I'm talking about '41 flathead V8's to modern diesels. At $1k you're on easy street and can afford to put a few bucks into what may well be one of the best daily drivers you'll ever own. Good luck. |
Reply to this Message |
 Sign In
 Join
 My Latest Posts My Monitored Threads My Blog My Photo Gallery My Profile My Homepage Start New Thread Enable EMail Alerts Rate this Thread
|
©2008 Advenet LLC Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.