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Car Forum / Mercedes-Benz Cars / September 2006190E electrical problem
On my 85 190E the other morning when I was driving to the train station the turn signal would not work but the hazard warning lights did. After work, the car would not start. I noticed a clicking sound coming from under the fuse box area without the key even in the ignition. I turned the key in the ignition trying to start the car and left it in the on position and the clicking stopped. I got a jump from someone and the car started right up and seemed fine including the turn signal. I put my charger on the battery and let it charge for several hours and let the car sit for a few days. It now starts right up. I've got 14 volts coming from the alternator and it does not vary when gunning the engine and turning on lights, radio and flasher but now the heater blower won't come on. When the car is turned off, the battery voltage is 13. I thought it was supposed to be 12. Any suggestions on what's wrong? I suspected the alternator but now I'm not sure. Thanks, Bill > On my 85 190E the other morning when I was driving to the train > station [quoted text clipped - 25 lines] > > Bill Either a very low battery, or the fuses are corroded and not making good contact. Spin the fuses in their holders by twisting them slightly and see if that helps. If it does, replace them. Battery voltage sounds fine to me. Good to have your battery checked.. if it is more than 2.5 years old.. ready for replacement... Also, good to check the fuse of the over-voltage regulator if your car has one... in my car, this regulator is behind the battery...during jump start with a flat battery, the alternator could supply over voltage and blow this fuse... then in the next over voltage conditon, it may not protect the over voltage situation and will burnt out all your electronics.. including the expensive fuel control system etc... > On my 85 190E the other morning when I was driving to the train station > the turn signal would not work but the hazard warning lights did. [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > > Bill Ditto on the overload relay... you might have to change it completely if battery checked out okay. >Good to have your battery checked.. if it is more than 2.5 years old.. ready >for replacement... 2.5 years is not the point at which a battery should fail assuming it's not a cheap POS. But, the rule for a diesel at least is replce the battery every 5 years period and you'll never have to worry about it. Sure some may last longer than that but keep in mind batteries fai lon very hot or very cold days which is probably when you least want them to fail. Having said that I have a 7 year old gel cel Optima that still works fine.  SignatureNeed Mercedes parts? http://parts.mbz.org Richard Sexton | Mercedes stuff: http://mbz.org 1970 280SE, 72 280SE | Home pages: http://rs79.vrx.net 633CSi 250SE/C 300SD | http://aquaria.net http://killi.net > 2.5 years is not the point at which a battery should fail assuming it's not > a cheap POS. OK, My battery terminals were in need of cleaning so this may have been the problem. I took the battery to Autozone and the guy that tested it said it was in goog shape which is what I thought. It measured over 12 and didn't even go all the way down to 10 when the tester similated start-up and then immediately went back up to 12. However, the heater blower still will not come on. The fuse on the overload switch was still good but I replaced it anyway but this made no difference. So how can I diagnose the blower problem further? By the way, it's possible this isn't a new problem. The AC hasn't worked for a couple of years so I have not had the blower on since I needed heat last winter. The blower had been making screeching noise on higher speeds for a couple of years but last winter it was mostly quiet again. I may need a new blower motor for next winter but I'd like to be sure before buying one. Thanks, Bill I would wiggle the ignition key back a bit more without shutting the engine off to determine if it is the ignition switch that is faulty or the motor... To test the motor, you would have to rig a wire direct to motor to test. > I would wiggle the ignition key back a bit more without shutting the engine > off to determine if it is the ignition switch that is faulty or the motor... > > To test the motor, you would have to rig a wire direct to motor to test. Isn't there a inline "strip" fuse for the blower motor like my '89 300E? I replaced my motor @ 130 bucks, only to find a simple 50 cent strip fuse had a crack in it. It is on the Driver side (US) on the fender-well. > > I would wiggle the ignition key back a bit more without shutting the engine > > off to determine if it is the ignition switch that is faulty or the motor... [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > strip fuse had a crack in it. It is on the Driver side (US) on the > fender-well. I tried to wiggle the ignition and changed the 2 blue 25 amp fuses but the blower still isn't working. What should I check next? Thanks, Bill I would check the motor first by bringing power directly to the blower. If blower works then you need a resistor thing for the blower. > I would check the motor first by bringing power directly to the blower. If > blower works then you need a resistor thing for the blower. OK, I ran power directly to the blower motor and it's OK. It looks like the wiring goes from the motor into the dash so how do I get to the heater resistor? How can I tell if the resistor is bad? I suppose the heater fan switch could be bad or I could have a wiring problem. Thanks, Bill > > I would check the motor first by bringing power directly to the blower. If > > blower works then you need a resistor thing for the blower. [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > Bill Have you verified that there is not an inline "strip" fuse? This is NOT the fuse(s) in the fuse box. It is seperate. My 300E had the same problem. I replaced the motor AND resistor pack. It ended up being a 50 cent fuse. I am not sure if the 190 E has one, but it is possible. It is usualluy on the drivers side (US) fender housing. It is about a 2 inch long box with a large wire out of each end. > Have you verified that there is not an inline "strip" fuse? This is > NOT the fuse(s) in the fuse box. It is seperate. My 300E had the same [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > on the drivers side (US) fender housing. It is about a 2 inch long box > with a large wire out of each end. I don't think my 190E has one of them or if it does I can't find it. I have a larger box in front of the fuse box that has a couple of relays and 25 amp blue fuses, I think one of fuses is for the blower. I replaced both of them but this didn't help. |
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