Hi ya all,
I have a small problem with my silver beauty I can't resolve by myself. When
cold after night or simply colder than 30" Celsius, engine refuses to idle.
After ignitig it catches about 1200 rpm, then lowers to about 1000, then
rapidly starts to idle roughly, and then dies. Second ignition usually is
sucessful one and engine idles at about 1000, heating itself, alhough not
very smooth, but at least it doesn't die. But it happened once or twice,
that I had to ignite it three times, before it idled. Well, temperatures
outside will definetly fall and problem will rather rise than diminish, so
I'm trying do do something with that idling.
So there's a question - since it may be oxygen sensor, exactly, heating of
it - how to check it? How to determine is sensor well heated?? I have
WIS/ASRA 2006, but there's nothing about sensor heating - or I can't locate
the info...
Another idea is PMS - original one died when I trided to ignite my car by
puling it (acccu was completely flat at that moment) and was replaced with
one form C180. Recently I tried to do same trick, meaning start the engine
by pulling the car. After that for a moment engine was not willing to start
and didn't idle at all. Erasing memory - by disconnecting accu - mend the
problem, but ever after that moment it didn't worked so somooth as before.
Well, maybe PMS gradually gives up??
What do you all think of it? Anyone encountered similar problems??
Cheers,
Andrzej
Tiger - 12 Sep 2006 18:26 GMT
Did you get any check engine light? Did you pull any diagnostic codes? I am
thinking AFM Air Flow Meter.
Andrzej - 14 Sep 2006 09:16 GMT
> Did you get any check engine light? Did you pull any diagnostic codes? I
> am thinking AFM Air Flow Meter.
Hmm, the problem is, that engine light is lit all the time - i don't know
yet what the problem is exactly, but trying to mend it. Dude, who sold me
the car simply pulled out the bulb, so I didn't saw it at the begining. When
I discovered that and fit the bulb, it started to lit, and lits all the
time. My mechanician will try to fix it today....
Jens - 12 Sep 2006 23:22 GMT
> Hi ya all,
> I have a small problem with my silver beauty I can't resolve by myself. When
> cold after night or simply colder than 30" Celsius, engine refuses to idle. ....
How does it perform when warm?
The PMS tries to learn after having been reset. Obviously the engine
does not react as it is supposed to according to the input it gets from
the various sensors.
Possible faults could be (in order of probability):
- Manifold vacuum leak
- Air Mass Sensor
- Coolant temperature sensor
- Intake air temperature sensor
- Oxygen sensor
- Fuel pressure
- Ignition
High idle before stalling could indicate too lean mixture (vacuum leak
could be a very likely cause).
Oxygen sensor does not provide output until warm. Meanwhile, the system
will work in open loop mode (fixed fuel mass according to air mass and
temperature sensors). The heating of the oxygen sensor only heats it up
quicker, so the operating time in open loop mode is minimized. Poor
heating should not cause your symptoms, but merely delay the closed
loop mode. And a failing oxygen sensor would most probably also just
cause continuous open loop mode, in which it should still start OK.
/Jens
Wan-ning Tan - 13 Sep 2006 04:02 GMT
Agree. This can't be oxygen sensor, which plays no role at starting,
especially cold start. I would pay more attention on the first 3
possibilities Jens mentioned.
>>Hi ya all,
>>I have a small problem with my silver beauty I can't resolve by myself. When
[quoted text clipped - 27 lines]
>
> /Jens
Andrzej - 14 Sep 2006 09:00 GMT
>> Hi ya all,
>> I have a small problem with my silver beauty I can't resolve by myself.
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>
> How does it perform when warm?
Nothing bad happening, when warm (meaning after it exceeds 80'Celsius) -
idles perfectly at 650-700 rpm, no problems with start.
> The PMS tries to learn after having been reset. Obviously the engine
> does not react as it is supposed to according to the input it gets from
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
> High idle before stalling could indicate too lean mixture (vacuum leak
> could be a very likely cause).
> /Jens
Well, I'm having my car checked today by my mechanician, so later in the
evening will provide more info. Jens, thanks a lot :)