240D windows

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Peter Newman - 23 Oct 2006 02:14 GMT

I'm having a problem with my electric window(s). The drivers side window
went down (electrically) but won't go back up. All the other windows went
up and down, at first, then the left rear stopped working at all when the
center console button was used. But I could raise and lower it from the
button on the door.

All this tells me that the switches are starting to go bad. The driver's
door going first since it's the one that's used the most. Does that seem
reasonable? If electricity was making it to the window so that it would go
down but it won't go up that points to the switch. Also, all the other
working windows make a little clicking noise when you hit the button, even
when it's in the extreme position (totally up or totally down). The drivers
side window makes no noise. By the way, all fuses are ok.

So... do you know how to remove the center console so I can replace the
switch - or at least short it out to get the window in the "up" position? I
don't see any obvious screws. Any thoughts on my analysis and what to do
about my problem as winter comes on? Are switches easily available,
assuming I can get the console off?

Peter

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macdrone - 23 Oct 2006 02:56 GMT

> I'm having a problem with my electric window(s). The drivers side window
> went down (electrically) but won't go back up. All the other windows went
[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
>
> Peter

Well my first bet would be fuses, then the relay for the windows. The
aluminum fuses corrode then they dont carry enough amps to do anything
right at all. Then when a relay goes you never know what happens.
Then check switches, take switches that work consistently and swap
them too make sure. If not try cleaning all the ground wires for the
system.

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Peter Newman - 23 Oct 2006 03:36 GMT

As I mentioned, the fuses seem ok. And since the wiring is cross/window
(Left front and right rear), it clearly isn't the fuse. Hwere is the relay
located? Since the window went down I think it's safe to assume there is
current getting to the window but I could be wrong. More to the point, you
suggest "check switches." That was the point of my question. How do you
open the center console so you can get at the switches and check them? I
feel about 90% certain that's the problem but I don't see any way that the
center console comes off easily. For one thing, there's the (automatic)
gear shift lever. Does the handle remove easily? It doesn't seem so.
Sorry to not be so appreciative of your suggestion but it doesn't seem to
address the problem I'm having.

Peter

>> I'm having a problem with my electric window(s). The drivers side window
>> went down (electrically) but won't go back up. All the other windows
[quoted text clipped - 29 lines]
> them too make sure. If not try cleaning all the ground wires for the
> system.

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me - 23 Oct 2006 03:53 GMT

> As I mentioned, the fuses seem ok. And since the wiring is
> cross/window (Left front and right rear), it clearly isn't the fuse.
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
>
> Peter

Can't speak specifically to a 240D, but in the past I have to removed
the ashtray, underneath there are a couple of screws to remove the
ashtray frame and change cup, then the console wood will slide
forward, and can be lifted up. The ring around the gear shift stays or
can be lifted out (automatic, not sure about a manual transmission).
Once the console wood is forward it can be lifted and the connections
for the electric widows, mirror etc, can be unplugged from underneath.

The problem is usually dirt, grime and that occasional cup of coffee
(with sugar) that gums up the switches. IMO a good reason to have a
cup holder elsewhere.

In Mercedes in my past, I have had luck "cleaning" the switches with a
spray electrical cleaner and rocking/operating the switch back and
forth until it operates again. I used to do this without taking the
console apart. I have had the same problem with the radio fader when
it is located at the console as well, a gummed up radio fader can
cause the whole radio to seemingly malfunction.

Who knows you might find some change :)

>>> I'm having a problem with my electric window(s). The drivers side
>>> window
[quoted text clipped - 41 lines]
>> the
>> system.

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Richard Sexton - 23 Oct 2006 05:54 GMT

It's well known that Mercedes fuses can seem ok but not work

To rule this out, replace ALL the fuses, but only after you've
throoughly cleaned the fusebox contacts. An ink erasor on the end o
of a pen is good for doing this.

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T.G. Lambach - 23 Oct 2006 04:38 GMT

The console switches may be dirty but you've overlooked the window
relays which do fail over time. These are usually with the fuses - 1 x 1
inch aluminum boxes about 1" high. They're interchangeable so one can
find the failing one by a process of elimination.

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Peter Newman - 23 Oct 2006 05:04 GMT

(Thanks "Me" for the detail on getting at the switches))

Seems to me that if the relays failed then the window would not have gone
down (it did go down but not up). That seems to suggest the switch, yes?
Especially since the rear window goes up and down with the door switch but
not the switch on the console. Thanks again, "me" for some good advise.

Peter

> The console switches may be dirty but you've overlooked the window relays
> which do fail over time. These are usually with the fuses - 1 x 1 inch
> aluminum boxes about 1" high. They're interchangeable so one can find the
> failing one by a process of elimination.

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Richard Sexton - 23 Oct 2006 05:57 GMT

Keep in mind the windoe switched can be disassembled, cleaned and
put back together. This aint a chevy and was meant to be fixed.

You'll invariably find black junk on copper inside. Just clean
it up with an ink eraser.

If a new relay fixes it, then that's it. If you can find another one
on the car that has he same relay type (ie, 87, 87a, etc) then swap
and see.

It might be binding mechanically. If you can measure voltage at
the motor then this is what's happening.

Signature

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Peter Newman - 26 Oct 2006 04:39 GMT

Thanks to everyone. After concluding it was the switch I called my favorite
parts person in Seattle. This is not a commercial for Abe but I wish I
could do everything to thank him. I spoke with Abe of Mercedes BMW Parts on
Aurora. He knows EVERYTHING about MB parts. We discussed the wiring,
motors, relays (there are none in this car) and switches. He had some OEM
switches for about $100 for each side (left and right) or $45/50 for
aftermarket. He said he hadn't heard of any problem with the aftermarket
ones. He gave me the simple instructions for removing the switches. You
don't have to remove anything on the console. Just use small screwdrivers
to pry them up out of the facia. He said he'd send the switches out in the
morning. He wouldn't take VISA but said to send him a check. He sent the
switches out before even receiving the check! The switches arrived today
and five minutes later I have 4 functioning windows.

I don't know if he has a website. I doubt it. It's a small operation. But
if you need parts or just need advice, Abe is your guy. This is his Seattle
number: 206-523-1804. Again, this isn't a commercial but the guy is a great
resource and I thought you should know about him and the integrity he brings
to his work.

Peter

> I'm having a problem with my electric window(s). The drivers side window
> went down (electrically) but won't go back up. All the other windows went
[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
>
> Peter

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