Replacing Tie Rods & Drag Link On A 107

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Todd Burns - 20 Nov 2006 23:38 GMT

My 380sl just failed inspection because a couple of the tie rod ends
and drag link had an excessive amount of play. So i was thinking about
replacing both tie rods, rather than just the ends, and the drag
link.

The job doesn't look too hard, relative to many of the things i've
already done on the car myself (e.g. valve stem seals, chain, chain
guides, tensioner, fuel pump, accumulator. AC servo, starter). But I
was just wondering if i was going to need any special tools, like a
tie rod puller, and if there was anything else i should know about the
job before i tackle it.

Thanks very much in advance.

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Save Da World - 21 Nov 2006 02:31 GMT

> My 380sl just failed inspection because a couple of the tie rod ends
> and drag link had an excessive amount of play. So i was thinking about
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>
> Thanks very much in advance

Many people use a pickle fork and a big hammer to git dem loose, but I
like a screw-press tool like this one (It doesn't destroy the rubber
boot)

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?search=true&item_ID=10316&PartNo=cj119b&
group_id=1245&supersede=&store=snapon-store&tool=all

but don't spend a hundred bucks for it.
I have one from another mfg but can't remember where I got it from
(about $30)

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Todd Burns - 21 Nov 2006 10:48 GMT

Thanks. But if i'm replacing the drag link, do i still need this?

>> My 380sl just failed inspection because a couple of the tie rod ends
>> and drag link had an excessive amount of play. So i was thinking about
[quoted text clipped - 19 lines]
>I have one from another mfg but can't remember where I got it from
>(about $30)

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Chas Hurst - 21 Nov 2006 14:46 GMT

> Thanks. But if i'm replacing the drag link, do i still need this?

Your car has no drag link. A drag link converts rotary motion to linear.
Your car has a pitman arm, center link, and idler arm. Plus the tie rods.
If you're changing out a tie rod (end), you can use a pickle fork, rentable
from Auto Zone, since the damage to the boot is of no matter.
If you wish to save the tie being removed, either a press as mentioned or a
strong swat with a stout hammer on the side of the knuckle will get it
apart.

>>> My 380sl just failed inspection because a couple of the tie rod ends
>>> and drag link had an excessive amount of play. So i was thinking about
[quoted text clipped - 19 lines]
>>I have one from another mfg but can't remember where I got it from
>>(about $30)

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Tiger - 21 Nov 2006 03:17 GMT

If you are going to do this job,. you might as well do the entire steering
like you said... the drag and two complete tie rods. You just have to
measure the distance between the two tie rod ends so you can set your new
one close enough so that you can run to alignment shop afterward.

Nothing special... just don't forget the steering shock absorber.

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