Hinge Stiffener, which one and why?

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Alon Seal - 11 May 2004 05:12 GMT

OK, I'm about to do some bodywork on the ol' Mini. Typical stuff: inner
sill, outter sill, floor pan (unless the "extended outter sill" can cover
it) and jacking point.

However, I also need to do the hinge / "A" panel, as they are no longer
attached to each other (they are attached to each other, right?) SO... Can
someone tell me the difference between "Hinge Stiffener Panel", "Repair
Panel, hinge stiffener", or "Repair Panel, hinge inner to outer panel"?
and is it supposed to be welded to the A panel?

Also, I've been looking up every possible site about how to do the sills
right, and have had a lot of luck, nice pictures, etc, and also I have a
couple of Mini body work books, but, am of course still open to any advice.

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Steve - 11 May 2004 17:34 GMT

> OK, I'm about to do some bodywork on the ol' Mini. Typical stuff: inner
> sill, outter sill, floor pan (unless the "extended outter sill" can cover
> it) and jacking point.

Don't use the extended sill. Use the correct narrow version. The wide one is
a cover panel and will be more trouble than it is worth in the long term.

> However, I also need to do the hinge / "A" panel, as they are no longer
> attached to each other (they are attached to each other, right?) SO... Can
> someone tell me the difference between "Hinge Stiffener Panel", "Repair
> Panel, hinge stiffener", or "Repair Panel, hinge inner to outer panel"?
> and is it supposed to be welded to the A panel?

Assuming we are talking about an internal hinged car, the A panel is folded
over the edge of the inner wing. If the back edge of the A panel is rotten,
the flange on the inner wing will be too. The inner wing follows the side of
the engine bay, then turns outwards towards the A panel, then out again past
the hinges, and finally turns rearwards to form the flange for the A panel
to fold over. The stiffener panel is on the rear face of the inner wing
panel and doubles the thickness to make it strong enough to carry the door.
It also carries the check strap bracket at the top. The door frame is then
over this, but doesn't extend out the the hinge mounting area.

> Also, I've been looking up every possible site about how to do the sills
> right, and have had a lot of luck, nice pictures, etc, and also I have a
> couple of Mini body work books, but, am of course still open to any advice.

See above, reference the wide sills! Fix the floor/inner sill properly and
you will have nice metal to weld the correct narrow sill onto. You need to
retain the drains in the sill to allow condensation to escape. The wide
sills don't have the drains, so the moisture sits inside until it rots
through again.

Signature

Rgds
Steve
steve@dsnclassics.co.uk
www.dsnclassics.co.uk

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k - 11 May 2004 19:43 GMT

> OK, I'm about to do some bodywork on the ol' Mini. Typical stuff: inner
> sill, outter sill, floor pan (unless the "extended outter sill" can cover
> it) and jacking point.

Hi, If you are going to repair your sills, DO NOT use these so-called
"extended sills" these things are only fit for bodgers. They do not have
drain holes/pressings, and by fitting them you will be weakening the sill
structure in addition to trapping water and causing accelerated rot.

Keith

> However, I also need to do the hinge / "A" panel, as they are no longer
> attached to each other (they are attached to each other, right?) SO... Can
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> right, and have had a lot of luck, nice pictures, etc, and also I have a
> couple of Mini body work books, but, am of course still open to any advice.

Reply to this Message

Alon Seal - 11 May 2004 22:46 GMT

> Hi, If you are going to repair your sills, DO NOT use these so-called
> "extended sills" these things are only fit for bodgers. They do not have
> drain holes/pressings, and by fitting them you will be weakening the sill
> structure in addition to trapping water and causing accelerated rot.
>
> Keith

OK, what about if I use non-Rover parts? The price difference is $50 vs
$20. Is the quality / drain holes also an issue with non-Rover Parts?

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k - 12 May 2004 01:04 GMT

> > Hi, If you are going to repair your sills, DO NOT use these so-called
> > "extended sills" these things are only fit for bodgers. They do not have
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>
> Hi,

There is no real problem with non-Rover parts, except sometimes the fit is a
little poor. The main problem with these "extended sills" is that instead of
fitting to the bottom of the sill section, they fit near the floor, which
changes the shape of the section of the sill. The original sill area forms a
rigid box section, but if the edge of these extensions are fitted to the
floor, the shape is changed and the strength is lost. These extended sills
also do not have the pressings that allow water and dampness to escape,
allowing rust to build up much more quickly. I have seen sills rotted out
after only 18 months when these have been fitted. The bodgers over here in
the UK fit these over the top of the original rotten sills, trapping the
rust inside, and this accelerates the rusting action.
The non-Rover standard sills do have the drain pressings, so there is no
problems in this area.
I have sent you an e-mail with a sketch explaining my comments about sill
strength

Keith

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Alon Seal - 12 May 2004 14:44 GMT

> There is no real problem with non-Rover parts, except sometimes the fit is a
> little poor. The main problem with these "extended sills" is that instead of
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
>
> Keith

Keith,

Got your email, thanks for the cross section drawing. I've actually
been looking for an drawing EXACTLY like that, to get a better
understanding. Your picture also tells me that I should get a step to
make it a totally sound job. If you don't mind, I'd like to put it on
my website, as well, since I'm documenting my Mini.

By the by, how thick (what gauge) is the metal for the sill? when I
checked, mine looks pretty thick, so I think it MUST have had a sill
slapped on the rusty bits.

www·noodles4all·com

Alon·

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k - 12 May 2004 19:43 GMT

Hi,
No problem if you want to add it to your web site, but bear in mind that the
shape of the step in my drawing is not correct. It is just for illustration
of my point. The step actually has another "step" in it's shape.
As far as I can remember, the sill and step material is 20SWG. Check the
flange where the trim goes on, there should be only 2 thicknesses there, any
more and it's had a bodge sill fitted over the rust.
I worked on Minis for over 40 years, and I once removed 3 "sills" from one
side and 4 from the other! You can imagine the amount of rust trapped in
them.

keith

> > There is no real problem with non-Rover parts, except sometimes the fit is a
> > little poor. The main problem with these "extended sills" is that instead of
[quoted text clipped - 29 lines]
>
> Alon?

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