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Car Forum / MINI / June 2004What is the best finnish to put on my new subframe
What is the best looking and longest lasting finnish to put on my rear subframe. The advice I've been given so far includes "don't whatever you do have it powder coated!", "The longest lasting finnish is dulux houshold gloss paint" "Dintrol make a special paint that costs a fortune and is superb". I don't think any of this advice actually came from a mini owner. The subframe at present has been shot blasted and painted with red lead oxide. I'm sure there are a thousand views out there so let me know what you have used and what you think of it. Thanks Kevin I covered my rear sub in coats of hamerite and jap laq high gloss paint in alternating colors, so that i knew that each coat was completely covered each time, i think i put about 4 coats in all in green and white, because it was a green and white cooper, finaly finshing with the green, I then filled the cavities with finagans waxoyle. Jono  SignatureBarspeed Mini`s - Devoted to the Classic Mini "Persisto Transverbero Adversum" Email - barspeed@hotmail.com The Rover Mini Se7en Register - http://www.geocities.com/minise7en2001/ Barspeed Mini`s - http://barspeed.topcities.com Barspeed Mini`s Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/barspeed Barspeed Motor Album - http://barspeed1.topcities.com If you have received this email in error please click below. barspeed@hotmail.com > What is the best looking and longest lasting finnish to put on my rear > subframe. The advice I've been given so far includes "don't whatever [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > Thanks Kevin Hammerite is the toughest, however the problem with Hammerite is that once rust starts underneath, it just creeps invisibly and rots thru.... It depends on how frequently you are prepared to repaint.. A better idea may be plain black underseal > What is the best looking and longest lasting finnish to put on my rear > subframe. The advice I've been given so far includes "don't whatever [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > Thanks Kevin Powder coat your subframes, you'll only need to do it once. > What is the best looking and longest lasting finnish to put on my rear > subframe. The advice I've been given so far includes "don't whatever [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > Thanks Kevin In message <40cace01@clear.net.nz>, Tim <tim_lis@clear.net.nz> writes >Powder coat your subframes, you'll only need to do it once. > [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] >> >> Thanks Kevin But powder coating has the same problem as Hammerite. The finish is tough, but it doesn't bond at all well to the metal, so once moisture gets in (and it will!) then rust forms to its heart's content under the powder coating. I was once foolish enough to have some Hillman Imp front wishbones powder coated. Never again! SignatureChris Morriss I have tried most and still believe that POR15 is the best, check out thier site at www.por15.com regards chris > What is the best looking and longest lasting finnish to put on my rear > subframe. The advice I've been given so far includes "don't whatever [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > Thanks Kevin The best finish for a subframe or any steel object is galvanizing (zinc coating). The galvanizers initial prep removes all the paint and the majority of the rust so that isn't a concern. POR-15 is very good, not as good as zinc but it works. Everything else falls well below the two above. Good powder coating might be close to POR-15 but only if the prep is very good. Chemical dipping for rust removal will help a lot. Cheers, Kelley >I have tried most and still believe that POR15 is the best, check out thier >site at www.por15.com [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] >> >> Thanks Kevin I have tried Hammerite on previously owned MGs - it's too tough (ie hard and not at all flexible, which is bad). My experience is that the lack of flex (and maybe even shrinkage) causes it to crack and rust starts in the cracks. Either that or it comes away from the metal after a year or so to reveal the newly established rust underneath. Unless you're spending lots on money, Waxoyl brand Underseal is absolutely fantastic - I coated my last MGB with it underneath after welding in new floorpans (I didn't use anything else infact), SEVEN years later the waxoyl was still oily to touch (it does not set fully wich is why it always stays stuck to the metal underneath) with no signs of perishing, cracking or shrinkage (bitumin underseal is terrible for perishing over time) - the floorpans were as good as the day I welded them in. It's almost as good as putting metal in a grease bucket - but it's worth checking each year though to see if touch ups needed anywhere. The Original Waxoyl product is of course really good too but it can wash off in exposed areas (NB if it sets in the can, put it in a bucket of hot water) > The best finish for a subframe or any steel object is galvanizing > (zinc coating). The galvanizers initial prep removes all the paint and > the majority of the rust so that isn't a concern. Obviously you have had nothing galavanised. Heat distorts thin objects when hot dipped. I would say that a mini subframe would distort. rm > POR-15 is very good, not as good as zinc but it works. > [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] >> >>regards chris >>>What is the best looking and longest lasting finnish to put on my rear >>>subframe. The advice I've been given so far includes "don't whatever [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] >>> >>>Thanks Kevin Obviously you have never had a Mini subframe galvanized. Neither have I, but I have seen the results and there was no significant distortion. Check the URLs below. http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/466797/4 http://www.minidirectaus.com/web/id/3463/ClassDetail.cfm Nothing too specific in the URLs but it has been done successfully. Mini subframes are pretty stiff, well designed structures. They get even stiffer when bolted into place. I doubt that there would be much distortion. Anyone considering this should, of course, take the advice of the galvanizer. Cheers, Kelley >> The best finish for a subframe or any steel object is galvanizing >> (zinc coating). The galvanizers initial prep removes all the paint and [quoted text clipped - 30 lines] >>>> >>>>Thanks Kevin >> The best finish for a subframe or any steel object is galvanizing >> (zinc coating). The galvanizers initial prep removes all the paint and >> the majority of the rust so that isn't a concern. rm wrote: > Obviously you have had nothing galavanised. Heat distorts thin objects > when hot dipped. I would say that a mini subframe would distort. Boat trailers and box trailers are routinely successfully hot dip galvanised in Australia without problems. Large areas of sheet are most prone to distortion, you couldn't hot dip galvanise a Moke shell for example. The thinner material of a Mini subframe *might* pose a problem, the galvanised internal threads will certainly be a nuisance. I confess I find the whole discussion about how to protect subframes from rust a bit weird from this distance. I've never heard of aftermarket replacment subframes in Australia and I've never seen significant rust in a subframe. Second hand 30 year old subframes are readily available here for maybe $100 (say 40 quid) and some people use them for trailers. > What is the best looking and longest lasting finnish to put on my rear > subframe. The advice I've been given so far includes "don't whatever [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > Thanks Kevin The trouble with subframes is that you can do a beautiful job of protecting the bits you can see, but you can't rub down and paint the insides. The water and salt get inside though, so frames rust from the inside out. So squirt waxoyl inside the box section at the front of the frame, and into the channels at the sides. If you do it before fitting the frame, you can move it around so gravity helps get the stuff in the right place. Remove the black transport primer, and paint it with a good primer. A zinc-based primer works well. Like galvanised. I used Finnegans No 1 primer with good results but can't get it any more - is Wynns no 1 the same stuff under a different name? Hammerite alone is hopeless. I never, ever, managed to avoid little bubbles which became pinholes which became rust spots. I don't think Hammerite likes zinc primer. Hammerite over No 1 primer was successful, but if you have good primer you can just spray any car paint on it, so why bother with the hammerite? And another problem with hammerite is that underseal doesn't stick to it very well. Lock > Lock > > --- > Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. > Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). > Version: 6.0.701 / Virus Database: 458 - Release Date: 07/06/04 Hi, Have you seen that grey or white sealing mastic that is painted over the inside of welded seams? It is very thick and never sets hard. I have used it successfully in protecting areas under the car. I mix a small amount of cellulose thinners with it to thin it slightly and then painted this mixture all over the panels. I sticks like the proverbial Sh** to a blanket, and hardens just enough to allow a coat of paint, in my case hammerite. It will not chip as it seems to be rubbery, and stones just bounce off. K >Hi, >Have you seen that grey or white sealing mastic that is painted over the >inside of welded seams? Thanks to that stuff, my '62 rusted away from underneath the paintwork... peeling the mastic away reveled long strips of rust and holes. nasty stuff. -- Howard 1966 VW Beetle 1300 Deluxe 1962 Austin Mini Super De-Luxe Website at http://www.howard81.co.uk/ > >Hi, > >Have you seen that grey or white sealing mastic that is painted over the [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > 1962 Austin Mini Super De-Luxe > Website at http://www.howard81.co.uk/ Hi, Surface not properly cleaned and prepared. K >Hi, Surface not properly cleaned and prepared. Maybe, I have no idea. It was done back in 1985, when I was 4 1/2 years old ;-) -- Howard 1966 VW Beetle 1300 Deluxe 1962 Austin Mini Super De-Luxe Website at http://www.howard81.co.uk/ Has anyone tried using household gloss paint? It sounds like a bodge job but I'm told it works very well and lasts ages. > >Hi, Surface not properly cleaned and prepared. > [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > 1962 Austin Mini Super De-Luxe > Website at http://www.howard81.co.uk/ > Has anyone tried using household gloss paint? It sounds like a bodge job but > I'm told it works very well and lasts ages. I had a Moke which was brush painted in marine enamel over brown zinc chromate primer. Marine gloss enamel is essentially no more than good quality house paint in brighter colours. I had no problems with new rust over the next 6 years, but then rust isn't a big problem here anyway. Graham, I have seen one rusty rear subframe in Australia.... ....it was on a boat trailer! Michael. > > Has anyone tried using household gloss paint? It sounds like a bodge job but > > I'm told it works very well and lasts ages. [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > quality house paint in brighter colours. I had no problems with new rust > over the next 6 years, but then rust isn't a big problem here anyway. > Graham, I have seen one rusty rear subframe in Australia.... > > ....it was on a boat trailer! Was it galvanised? 8-) >Graham, I have seen one rusty rear subframe in Australia.... It's the opposite over here... I don't think I've ever seen a solid one! :-D If anyone wants to swap... :-P -- Howard 1966 VW Beetle 1300 Deluxe 1962 Austin Mini Super De-Luxe Website at http://www.howard81.co.uk/ Hey All, Can you get stainless mig wire? I was thinking of making a whole rear subframe out of stainless steel, of a slightly thicker gauge than standard, I was going to make a jig using the measurements off a new rover subframe so everything sort of lines up, Steve, > > >Hi, > > >Have you seen that grey or white sealing mastic that is painted over the [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > > K > Can you get stainless mig wire? Yes. > ... I was thinking of making a whole rear > subframe out of stainless steel, of a slightly thicker gauge than standard, We've covered why stainless steel isn't a simple direct replacement for mild steel several times in recent discussions about stainless fasterners. I would think fatigue failures would be almost inevitable in a stainless steel subframe. |
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