Clutch "stop bolt and lock nut" problem

Thread view:

Enable EMail Alerts

Start New Thread

Thread rating:

Angelo - 12 Nov 2004 13:10 GMT

Hi

The hole that takes bolt & lock nut under the "clutch arm" by the
slave cylinder appears stripped.
Can I tap this to an oversize and use a thicker bolt and nut?
If yes, any things to consider? Shavings entering the housing, etc.?

Q2. Can someone explain this bolts function as I'm obviously missing
the point.
Haynes explains how to adjust this. With the clutch pedal at rest, the
arm and bolt head must have a 0.5mm gap.
Depressing the pedal, moves the arm away from the bolt head.
When does the bolt head actually come into contact and stop the arm?

Q3. The local mini specialist said that the arm in my car has been
heated and bent so as to get further milage out of the clutch kit.
Do I still adjust according to the Haynes direction as above or does
something else have to change? eg. The 0.5mm gap

Q4. Are there any negatives from bending the arm? If not, why didn't
the factory design it that way?
If yes, should I source a new/old arm and replace?

Thanks again in advance

Angelo (1983 1275HLE Clubman)

Reply to this Message

Fitzy - 12 Nov 2004 21:48 GMT

Hi Angelo
Q1,
Yes you can drill and tap a new thread, any swarf (shavings) should fall to
the floor, if any enter the inside of the clutch housing, they should fall
out through the small vent hole in the bottom of the casing,
Q2
Without being long winded or technical,
the bolt holds the actuator arm, and in turn this holds the fluid in the
slave cylinder, ensuring perfect pressure everytime,
(in a round about way)
I'm sure someone will explain it better,
HTH
Fitzy

> Hi
>
[quoted text clipped - 22 lines]
>
> Angelo (1983 1275HLE Clubman)

Reply to this Message

Hamish - 13 Nov 2004 16:39 GMT

Q2
The bolt has the function of holding the hydraulic arm in the correct
position. The 5 mill gap is so that the spring pulls the release bearing
away from the clutch. so as not to wear the bearing.

Q3
This is probably a bodge because the ball at the bottom of the arm is worn
and insufficient movement can be obtained with the adjuster bolt which
probably left it hanging by a thread (sorry no pun intended). and so it
would then shear when tightened with the lock nut.

Q4
If my assumption of wear on the ball at the bottom of the rod is correct,
then you will never get a nice smooth clutch without a new arm.

Hamish

> Hi Angelo
> Q1,
[quoted text clipped - 36 lines]
>>
>> Angelo (1983 1275HLE Clubman)

Reply to this Message