Car Forum / MINI / November 2004
My MPI mini not running
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Richard Palmer - 02 Nov 2004 21:21 GMT hi all, have always used this group to help me out in the past, as i find it very helpfull!!
but this time i am totally stuck, so i have had to post a thread up!!
Ok, i was driving my 96' MPI cooper home from work the other night, when the engine just starts to die, i eventually pulled it into a layby where it passed away.
The engine wouldn't start, unless i pulse the throttle loads of times, really lightly getting harder where it will start to rev, the faster i press the throttle. But as soon as i press and hold the throttle the engine will go BARRRRRR and cut out.
What do you think this is down to?
I have taken the injectors, but am just waiting for a new set of o'-rings to replace the old ones with.
regards Rich
Ray - 02 Nov 2004 22:11 GMT > What do you think this is down to? > > I have taken the injectors, but am just waiting for a new set of > o'-rings to replace the old ones with. Sounds like its just not getting any fuel, so fuel pump first. Check the fuse for the fuel pump. Also press the fuel cutt-off inertia switch. It is located under the bonnet. Open bonnet, look to the bonnet left (car-left) corner near the passenger door (for right hand drive). There is a switch on the bulkhead, it has a black rubber cap on it (square 1x1 inch with circle in it). Press down on the rubber cap.
 Signature Bye, Ray
Richard Palmer - 03 Nov 2004 19:30 GMT Hi ray, the fuel pump is still working as i can hear the high pitch noise coming from the unit.
Also have already pressed the fuel cut off inertia switch.
There is some fuel going in, as i can start it, and it ticks over for a few seconds.
i have asked rover for a new fuel filter, and they need to know the thread size, any ideas on that?
regards Richard
> > What do you think this is down to? > > [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > black rubber cap on it (square 1x1 inch with circle in it). Press down on > the rubber cap. Steve68s - 03 Nov 2004 21:46 GMT This is a long shot, not sure if this is the same on mpi's but I had a single point 93 cooper, near the top of the accelerator pedal is a small micro switch, which operates something when you press the throttle, if this goes faulty it will start & tick over but the engine can cut out when you press the throttle, just a thought,
Steve.
> Hi ray, the fuel pump is still working as i can hear the high pitch > noise coming from the unit. [quoted text clipped - 22 lines] > > black rubber cap on it (square 1x1 inch with circle in it). Press down on > > the rubber cap. Fitzy - 04 Nov 2004 10:00 GMT Worth a try !!! Sounds a bit like the fault I had a few days ago with my single point , check the ECU harness and also the security of the plug when it enters the ECU, I found 2 wires fractured , one of these wires controlled the pump relay, as the ECU bolted to the inner wing, the harness moves with the engine, I assumed this caused my fault, Check my postings above,,,,,, Fitzy
> This is a long shot, not sure if this is the same on mpi's but I had a > single point 93 cooper, near the top of the accelerator pedal is a small [quoted text clipped - 38 lines] > on >> > the rubber cap. Fitzy - 05 Nov 2004 22:00 GMT Worth a try !!! Sounds a bit like the fault I had a few days ago with my single point , check the ECU harness and also the security of the plug when it enters the ECU, I found 2 wires fractured , one of these wires controlled the pump relay, as the ECU bolted to the inner wing, the harness moves with the engine, I assumed this caused my fault, Check my postings above,,,,,, Fitzy
> This is a long shot, not sure if this is the same on mpi's but I had a > single point 93 cooper, near the top of the accelerator pedal is a small [quoted text clipped - 38 lines] > on >> > the rubber cap. Graham W - 07 Nov 2004 00:17 GMT > Ok, i was driving my 96' MPI cooper home from work the other night, > when the engine just starts to die, i eventually pulled it into a [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > What do you think this is down to? First chant the mantra: "Compression, mixture, spark."
Have you still got compression? It's unlikley to be the problem, but it's also dead easy to check. Pull out the spark plugs and see if they all look alike. You're unlikely to suddenly lose compression on all four cylinders at once, and if one is down, the plug will look different.
MOre likely is seriously incorrect mixture. With an injected motor, that could be caused by any of a number of sensors (or their associated wiring) no longer working right. It could also be vacuum leaks or injector problems. I would suspect a vacuum leak if it will nurse up to higher revs but won't carry a load.
The remaining possibility is an ignition failure resulting in poor spark quality. Duff ignition leads or spark plugs can cause this sort of problem, but usually it only affects one cylinder. Check the resistance of the coil to distributor high tension lead. It should be something of the order of 5,000 ohms. If it's much more than about 10,000 ohms, it's died.
> I have taken the injectors, but am just waiting for a new set of > o'-rings to replace the old ones with. Why? What tests lead you to believe the injectors are faulty?
Stick with the likely causes and test before putting time and money into fixing things that are probably perfectly alright.
Chris Spreadbury \(Home\) - 12 Nov 2004 21:17 GMT Could the exhaust be blocked with the catalyst?
the cat broke up on my 94 M carb Mini 35 and blocked the rear box of the exhaust, it was down for power and then stopped completely, There wasnt much pressure of gases coming out of the exaust and the they were extremely hot.
The cat was always getting knocked when going over speed hmps etc
> hi all, have always used this group to help me out in the past, as i > find it very helpfull!! [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > regards > Rich James H - 22 Nov 2004 18:23 GMT Just to add my 2p worth, I agree with the previous posts that suggest checking the simple stuff first, I have had bad experiences with high tech solutions.
My MPi Cooper had been playing up with starting problems and over fueling to the point where it was running so rich I couldn't get it thought an MOT.
After much head scratching from Rover and their 'magic' diagnostics system, they changed my fuel pump (twice), injectors (twice), ECU (twice), cat convertor and put a new inlet manifold on because the existing one 'had porus welds on it' before finally telling me it was OK and getting it through an MOT emissions test.
The car died on me again after having had it back 2 weeks. I finally gave up and phoned Minimaster in Penrith who came and took the car away on their flatbed.
After looking at it and fault finding the old fashioned way, they found an intermittent short on the wiring loom which had been causing one of the injectors to be energising when it shouldn't, pissing fuel into the engine almost all the time.
You'll be pleased to know that I got a healthy discount from Rovers invoice once my wife had finished 'discussing' things on the phone with them (she does angry customer so much better than me).
It also reinforced the point to me that if you can't find the problem yourself, you need an experienced mini mechanic to sort it , not dealership guys with a laptop.......
Cheers
James
> hi all, have always used this group to help me out in the past, as i > find it very helpfull!! [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > regards > Rich k - 22 Nov 2004 20:29 GMT > Just to add my 2p worth, I agree with the previous posts that suggest > checking the simple stuff first, I have had bad experiences with high tech [quoted text clipped - 27 lines] > > Cheers Hi, You just can't beat a time-served PRACTICAL mechanic, brought up on motor vehicles in real life. I once worked with a "mechanic" who had every diploma going, but in practice he was F****** useless.
Keith
> James > [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] > > regards > > Rich
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