>I'm building a kit car (ABS Freestyle) based on the mini. - The
>original servo brake master cylinder from the mini doesn't fit, so
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>
>Alan.
Kelley,
This is really useful thanks, but now I'm really not sure :)
I found an article on
'minimania.com'(http://www.minimania.com/web/DisplayID/939/SCatagory/BRAKES/DisplayType/Calver%2
7s%20Corner/CarType//ArticleV.cfm)
which states
"Early-type front/rear split system master cylinders used the
conventional Imperial threaded fittings. In these units, the
lower/bottom port feeds the front brakes, the upper/top port therefore
feeding the rear brakes. The later master cylinder (GMC227 - supplied
as a replacement for the early types and requires a conversion pipe
kit, sometimes identifiable by a yellow plastic band around the
cylinder body) has metric threaded fittings with nuts of two different
sizes - top one bigger than the bottom one. The conversion pipe kit is
necessary because the piston functions (and therefore the port supply
ones too) are reversed. The upper/top port feeds the front brakes, the
lower/bottom one feeding the rear brakes."
So, it looks likely from this that with my 'new' master cylinder that
the 'top' port is the front. - This would kind of make sense as it has
the larger connector, but how does this square with putting the piston
in direct contact with the pushrod I wonder? - To reverse the piston /
port functions seems contrary to this logic.
Many thanks,
Alan.
> The primary circuit, front brakes, is always the piston in direct
> contact with the pushrod. There are several reasons for this, the most
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>
> Kelley
Kelley Mascher - 02 Mar 2005 21:13 GMT
It is true that the later type has the upper port attached to the
front brakes. My mistake, I forgot that there was a later master
cylinder and didn't look it up in the Haynes supplement. Obviously,
you should hook it up as the manufacturer recommends. North America
and the BenLux countries had a twin circuit master cylinder from
1972-78 so we still tend to use the older type.
The only explanation for this that I can imagine is that the later
type master must have the two piston solidly connected or only has one
piston for both circuits. That's my hope anyway. I know I've seen and
exploded view of that master cylinder somewhere but I can't find it
right now.
If you are putting on a brand new master cylinder it is a good idea to
bench bleed it first. I have some connectors and brake line from an
old car and connect this to the appropriate connectors on the master
cylinders. Put some clear tubing on the stub ends of the brake line
and route it into the fluid reservoir. Fill the reservoir and push the
push rod up and down with the cylinder held vertically. One good way
is to put the pushrod in a vise and push the cylinder up and down.
Keep doing this until there are no more air bubbles.
This really helps with the feel of the pedal. The last one I did was
rock solid but it was a straight swap so I managed to not introduce
any air into the old lines.
Cheers,
Kelley
>Kelley,
>
[quoted text clipped - 36 lines]
>>
>> Kelley
AJR - 03 Mar 2005 08:49 GMT
Many thanks - this is a great tip that I wouldn't otherwise have
thought of. I think we've also cleared up the 'mystery' of the two
ports. - Thanks for your help.
Alan.
> If you are putting on a brand new master cylinder it is a good idea to
> bench bleed it first.