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Car Forum / MINI / May 2005

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A Series Engines....

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ooFunk - 09 May 2005 23:50 GMT
Does anybody here know the differences between the A series Engine and
the A+, I have heard and read a few things but im pretty intrigued to
find out the full story.

Along the same lines, are the colours of the block determined by type
and size? Again if someone could point me in the right direction it
would be appreciated...

John
Clive W - 10 May 2005 19:34 GMT
The A plus appeared in the late 1970s. The block is a stiffer casting to the
A series. There's other minor revisions too.
As for the colour most of mine have been a dirty oily colour. Although I
think 1275 A plus blocks were red, and 998 A plus blocks were yellow. Of
course anyone could repaint it.

Signature

Clive

ICQ 36890776
www.minisquad.tk

> Does anybody here know the differences between the A series Engine and
> the A+, I have heard and read a few things but im pretty intrigued to
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>
> John
ooFunk - 11 May 2005 11:35 GMT
Thanks for your reply, The only reason i ask about the colour is i have
acquire a new engine. This was part of someone elses project that they
now have no interest in.

Apparently the Block is an A series and has been bored out to 1340cc.
It is actually that mustard yellow colour which is the same as my 89'
998cc.

Were the A series 1275's yellow too?? Will there be any problems runnin
an A over an A+??

John
Michael Heinzelmann - 13 May 2005 07:59 GMT
Hello John,

> Apparently the Block is an A series and has been bored out to 1340cc.
> It is actually that mustard yellow colour which is the same as my 89'
> 998cc.

Then the block has been painted afterwards. (Or it's neither an A series nor
a 1275 block...)

> Were the A series 1275's yellow too??

No, IIRC the color coding is the following:

- A series 850, 1000 (and 1100??): olive green
- A series 1275: black
- A+ series 1000: yellow
- A+ series 1273: red

> Will there be any problems runnin an A over an A+??

They are interchangeable with some simple details required. The dizzy is
different as has been mentioned already, so this should stay with the block
The idler gear is different (A series smaller bearing diameter than the A+)
Clutch arm is different.
Starter motor is different. When changing from A to A+ or vice versa, you
need to stay with the flywheel that suits the starter or modify the
electrics to change to the new starter, too.
Alternator mounting ist different, but this can be overcome by changing the
bracket.

HTH
Michael
ooFunk - 13 May 2005 22:44 GMT
Hey Michael, thanks a lot for the information is indeed helpful. With
the Distributor, is it just the Bracket that is different? or is the
gearing different?

Im hoping that all the bits i have are the correct ones... I would list
them out but most of them are at my mates as im low on storage at the
moment... Ill try and do that over the next couple of days as i would
really like some opinions.

Im still not sure which colour to paint the thing either, from what you
have listed it should go black really.... but the Stage 2 Head i have
is Blue and has a good finish on it so i dont really want to change
that. I know it really doesnt matter, but i want to get the Bay looking
as nice as possible... any suggestions??

Also can anyone suggest a good book to help with all of this... in
paticular the re-build, i dont really want to make any expensive
mistakes, so the more help the better!!

John
Michael Heinzelmann - 14 May 2005 09:36 GMT
Hi John,

> Hey Michael, thanks a lot for the information is indeed helpful. With
> the Distributor, is it just the Bracket that is different? or is the
> gearing different?

From memory, being not absolutely sure: The gearing is most probalby the
same. At least the gearing at the cam is the same, so it should be a matter
of changing the gearing from cam to dizzy.
But - the distributor housing is different, I believe it's the diameter. So
they are not interchangeable. (As I have never tried to achieve this on my
own - I might be wrong. Please correct me if I am, someone)

> Im still not sure which colour to paint the thing either, from what you
> have listed it should go black really.... but the Stage 2 Head i have
> is Blue and has a good finish on it so i dont really want to change
> that. I know it really doesnt matter, but i want to get the Bay looking
> as nice as possible... any suggestions??

In case you don't want to change the head's colour - use the same on the
block, too.
My personal likeing is that the block and head should have the same colour.
Same may say the different colours clearly tell that an uprated head has
been fitted, but I just don't like it.
For originality, you should go for black. Personally, I like green or red
paint most.

> Also can anyone suggest a good book to help with all of this... in
> paticular the re-build, i dont really want to make any expensive
> mistakes, so the more help the better!!

Buy the Haynes manual. This is one of the best books avaible.

HTH
Michael
Rob - 12 May 2005 05:23 GMT
> Does anybody here know the differences between the A series Engine and
> the A+, I have heard and read a few things but im pretty intrigued to
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>
> John

The A+  don't have cam follower covers on the side.
Andrew Murray - 12 May 2005 20:47 GMT
>> Does anybody here know the differences between the A series Engine
>> and the A+, I have heard and read a few things but im pretty
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>
> The A+  don't have cam follower covers on the side.

But non-Cooper S A-series didn't have cam follower covers either.

Best identififer for an A+ is that it has vertical and horizontal
strengthening ribs on both the front and back of the block.  Older A series
don't have these.
Chris Morriss - 12 May 2005 21:26 GMT
>>> Does anybody here know the differences between the A series Engine
>>> and the A+, I have heard and read a few things but im pretty
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
>strengthening ribs on both the front and back of the block.  Older A series
>don't have these.

And that the A+ has a different distributor mounting clamp.
Signature

Chris Morriss

 
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