>>there is a special tool but the easiest thing would to be to use pliers
>>then
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>
> Colin.
as we all know, Heat rises, place the terminal higher than the cable,
concentrate the heat in the direction of the terminal, the heat should
transfer to the cable, apply solder,
remember to monitor flame deflection, and also remember, solder will follow
the heat,,,,it will even flow vertically,
Fitzy
Colin Stamp - 29 Apr 2006 21:36 GMT
>> Yep. It'll be practically impossible to solder wire that thick without
>> melting some of the insulation. What I do, is to cut away the melted
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>the heat,,,,it will even flow vertically,
>Fitzy
All good things to do, but I still defy you to solder a battery cable
to anything without knackering any insulation within around 10-15mm of
the joint. There's just too much copper to conduct the heat straight
to the PVC. 2mm^2 is fine, 3mm^2 is starting to get slightly dodgy,
but I've never seen starter cable less than about 15mm^2. Having
molten solder within a few mm of solid PVC isn't going to happen on
wire that thick.
If you have access to a TIG machine, I suppose you might be able to
weld it before the PVC notices too much heat, but the easiest thing is
just to let it happen and make good afterwards with heat-shrink.
Cheers,
Colin.
Fitzy - 29 Apr 2006 22:40 GMT
Your totally right there Colin,
just trying to describe how I would do it, to reduce the damage,
Fitzy
>>> Yep. It'll be practically impossible to solder wire that thick without
>>> melting some of the insulation. What I do, is to cut away the melted
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>
> Colin.
Steve68s - 29 Apr 2006 22:45 GMT
Yup, with the heat the insulation will creep back but the rally stuff is
double insulated with the inner being PTFE, when done a little insulation
tape & cover the end with heat shrinkable rubber, also if its getting
renewed run it inside the car maybe?
Steve.
> Your totally right there Colin,
> just trying to describe how I would do it, to reduce the damage,
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>>
>> Colin.